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Blog
Mt. Difficulty Winemaker’s Dinner at ’21′ Club
Tuesday, July 19th 2011
Last week I had the pleasure of attending a sumptuous wine dinner at New York City’s ’21′ Club, hosted by Matt Dicey, the winemaker of Mt. Difficulty Wines in Central Otago, New Zealand. The dinner was held in the elegant, upstairs dining room, Upstairs at ’21′, surrounded by vibrant murals of New York landmarks created exclusively for ’21′ by Brooklyn-based artist Wynne Evans.
Mt. Difficulty is a boutique winery located in Bannockburn in Central Otago, New Zealand and owns some of the region’s oldest vineyards. Central Otago is the world’s most southern vineyard area and has unique, unpredictable temperature fluctuations on a daily basis, as well as from season to season, which turns out to be a plus for growing finicky Pinot Noir. The distinctive microclimate of Bannockburn provides hot summers and cool autumns, coaxing the very best out its Pinot Noir grapes. The namesake of the nearby mountain that shelters the vineyards, Mt. Difficulty Wines is an exceptional New Zealand producer.
Here at The Wine Cellarage, we’ve been fans of Mt. Difficulty for quite some time, which is why we were thrilled to find out that Matt Dicey was coming to town and jumped at the opportunity to partner with ’21′ Club for this special wine dinner. Matt is a fourth generation winemaker and has been making Mt. Difficulty Wines since 1999. Matt was a wonderful host and gave captivating introductions for each of the wines that we tasted, going into the differences in soil types, the mixture of clays and gravels found in the region, along with the influence of the region’s climate on grape-growing there. Matt’s jovial disposition and informative dialogues made the evening truly memorable.
Guests were welcomed with a glass of the 2010 Roaring Meg Pinot Gris and a delicious selection of passed canapés, including tuna tartare and lobster and crab salad. The Pinot Gris was crisp and refreshing, cooling everyone down as they came in from the intense heat!
The dinner, prepared by Executive Chef John Greeley, began with seared sea scallops over English pea risotto, razor clam nage and kefir. The scallops were paired with the 2008 Mt. Difficulty Estate Pinot Gris and the 2008 Mt. Difficulty Estate Sauvignon Blanc, offering an interesting juxtaposition. The Pinot Gris complimented the dish perfectly, enhancing the inherent sweetness of the scallops and peas with its aromatics, floral and tropical qualities. The Sauvignon Blanc had a more racy acidity that cut right through the richness of the dish, while its herbaceous notes played harmoniously alongside the pea risotto. Both wines were a great pairing, but I preferred the Estate Pinot Gris.
Next up, we were presented with sockeye salmon, a fricassee of mushrooms, sweet corn purée, lemon butter and dry chilis. This lovely salmon was paired with the 2006 Mt. Difficulty Estate Chardonnay and the 2009 Roaring Meg Pinot Noir, both working marvelously with different elements in the dish and really demonstrated that both varietals can offer an enticing pairing for salmon. The Estate Chardonnay’s red apple notes had a pleasant interplay with the corn purée, while the wine’s creaminess highlighted the splendid richness of the sockeye and lemon butter, finishing with palate cleansing, fresh minerality. On the other hand, the Roaring Meg Pinot Noir complimented the earthiness of the mushroom medley and provided a refreshing contrast to the salmon’s rich texture and flavor.
By the time the third course arrived, animated conversation was as plentiful as the wine being poured and our table had covered a range of topics including biodynamic farming, sustainable energy and the differences between salmon from New Zealand and that from the Atlantic. The grilled lamb chop (cooked beautifully on the rare side) and belly were presented with an array of accompaniments – fine herbs with honey mustard, cherry tomatoes, zucchini blossom and smoked bacon. The lamb was paired with the 2008 Estate Pinot Noir and the single-vineyard 2008 Long Gully Pinot Noir, providing the opportunity to compare different bottlings from the same vintage.
The Estate Pinot Noir showed rich, black fruit and prevalent, balanced tannins and acidity, making for a wonderful pairing. Both Pinots shared rich dark fruit, black cherry and blackberry characteristics, yet the Long Gully had greater complexity and finesse. The Long Gully displayed wild berry flavors, currants and cassis, along with floral and violet aromas, velvety tannins and harmonious acidity that carried through on the long, sweet fruit finish.
The final course, a Pavlova filled with passion fruit coulis and exotic sorbets, was paired with the 2008 Roaring Meg Riesling. This vibrant dessert was the perfect finale to the dinner, where each element came together and made for an enchanting evening of magnificent wine, incredible food, flawless service and delightful ambiance.
Dr. Frank Wines: Gems of the Finger Lakes
Vineyard overlooking Keuka Lake
Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars is a true gem in the Northeastern United States’ winemaking landscape. Emigrating from the Ukraine to New York in 1951, Dr. Frank moved upstate to the picturesque Finger Lakes region to take a position at Cornell University’s Geneva Experiment Station. Dr. Frank, a professor of plant sciences with a PhD in viticulture, would quickly revolutionize Northeastern US grape-growing and winemaking by promoting the growth of European varietals in this chilly northern environment.
Dr. Frank’s beliefs originated from his experiences while living in the Ukraine. He knew that Vitis Vinifera (wine grapes) could grow in the Finger Lakes region if planted on the right rootstock, despite the colder climate. Dr. Frank forged a friendship with a French champagne maker named Charles Fournier, the president of the Lakes region’s Gold Seal Vineyards.
After just ten years in the US, Dr. Frank established Vinifera Wine Cellars in 1962. This fledgling winery swiftly gained renown for its sublime Rieslings, putting the Finger Lakes on the map as a world-class wine-producing region capable of exceptional quality.
Today, Dr. Konstantin Frank is run by the family’s 3rd generation of winemakers, led by Frederick Frank, who took over in 1993. Fred’s sister, Barbara Frank is Consulting Winemaker and Regional Sales Manager for Dr. Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars and Chateau Frank Winery. I’ve had the pleasure of meeting Barbara at several wine tasting events in NYC at which she graciously shares a wealth of information about the family’s wines.
Dr. Frank’s Wine Cellars has grown to encompass two additional labels, Salmon Run and Chateau Frank. Salmon Run is the winery’s value label and a tribute to the magnificent salmon of gorgeous Keuka Lake. Chateau Frank is the label under which the winery’s extraordinary sparkling wines are crafted. These sparklers are among the best I’ve tasted from this side of the pond. Their 2006 Blanc de Blancs is on par with my longstanding American favorite, Schramsberg’s Blanc de Blancs.
The Wine Cellarage is delighted to introduce Dr. Konstantin Frank Vinifera Wine Cellars to our offerings. Thus far, we have chosen five wonderful wines from Dr. Frank and Chateau Frank. These are ideal wines for summertime quaffing. The Dry Riesling, Grüner Veltliner and Blanc de Blancs are delightful, crisp and oh-so refreshing. The Cab Franc is the perfect red wine for summer, reminiscent of Loire Valley Chinon, with soft tannins, subtle earthiness and roasted red pepper notes. Finally, Chateau Frank’s Célèbre Rosé is a delicious, red berry infused crowd-pleaser and will make an ideal aperitif for your summertime parties and gatherings!
2010 Dr. Frank Dry Riesling – The fruit was hand-harvested during the cool hours of the morning, and then cold pressed. The juice was cold settled and given a lengthy fermentation at low temperatures with special German wine yeasts.
“The 2010 Dry Riesling has a classic pale straw color with a crisp green hue. The nose shows typical Keuka Lake minerality with fresh lemon citrus and apple with an intriguing blossom aroma. The palate shows wonderful tight acid that balances out the fruity residual sugar enhancing the floral and bringing out the bright tangerine flavors. The palate also displays the slatey mineral characteristics that typify Dr. Frank’s Rieslings. Serve with all fin fish and shell fish.” – Winemaker’s Notes
2010 Dr. Frank Grüner Veltliner – The grapes were picked early in the morning to capture the strong fruit flavors. The juice was then fermented at cold temperatures in stainless steel tanks with a neutral yeast, enhancing the wine’s natural fruit flavors.
“The 2010 Grüner Veltliner fits perfectly within the Dr. Frank family of wines. The wonderful nose is a treat of floral, melon and honeysuckle while the mouth has subtle herbal notes and balanced layered textures in the background that finish off with the typical Grüner Veltliner white pepper heat. It is food friendly wine and pairs well with everything from scallops and roasted vegetables to grilled pork tenderloin.” – Winemaker’s Notes
2008 Dr. Frank Cabernet Franc – “The 2008 Cabernet Franc presents a nose of roasted red pepper and prune that lengthens with oaky and spicy tones. On the palate, this wine displays great elegance with soft tannins and a smooth long finish. Coming from an exceptionally hot summer this wine will benefit from decanting to reveal the depth of its character – serve with brisket and red sauce pasta dishes.” – Winemaker’s Notes
2006 Chateau Frank Blanc de Blancs – “Presenting typical complexity and delicate flavors, this wine exemplifies the traditional Blanc de Blancs style. A crisp acidity accompanied by rich pear and honeysuckle with citrus, lemon, and ginger makes this Sparkling Wine vibrantly pleasant. Extended lees aging (tirage) gives earthy and toasty notes with a soft vanilla finish. Serve with rich foods such as caviar or salmon.” – Winemaker’s Notes
Chateau Frank Célèbre Rosé – A festive sparkler made from 100% estate grown Pinot Meunier grapes and crafted in the French Crémant style, according to the traditional method. This delightful, sparkling rosé offers rich raspberry and strawberry aromas, lush cherry flavors and beautiful, delicate bubbles.
About the Finger Lakes Region
Home to over 100 wineries, the Finger Lakes region is the longstanding pillar of New York State’s wine industry. The beautiful, narrow lakes of the region, named for their resemblance to fingers, were hewn from the land by Ice Age glaciers. The lakes have a significant effect on the climate, keeping the air relatively warm in the winter and gradually pulling cool air down from the surrounding hillsides. By the time spring comes, the lakes have cooled, which prevents the vineyards from budding too early, providing a safeguard against frost damage. The major lakes of the wine region are Keuka, Seneca, Canandaigua and Cayuga.
Riesling and Gewurztraminer thrive in the cool northern climate of the region, producing wines with great acidity and minerality. Grüner Veltliner, native to Austria, is proving to be a great fit for the Finger Lakes as well, quickly gaining recognition and praise.
The wines of the Finger Lakes region are not to be missed! They present exceptional quality and value, and for those of us living in and around New York, a lovely, local wine option.