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Blog
Great Value Premier Cru Red Burgundy
2009 Bouchard Père et Fils Auxey-Duresses Les Duresses
Bouchard’s 2009 Auxey-Duresses Les Duresses is showing beautifully with an intensely fragrant bouquet of floral and wild berry aromas. Soft and supple on the palate, the fruit shines with the slightest accent of spice. This Pinot’s elegant, charming finish beckons another sip. If you’re looking for a really great “everyday” red Burgundy that offers superior quality and undeniable value, look no further. At $28 per bottle, it doesn’t get much better than this.
Auxey-Duresses is a smaller, under the radar appellation that is nestled in the valley between Volnay, to the north, and Meursault, directly adjacent and to the south. Directly to the north of Auxey-Duresses is Monthélie, home to a handful of premier cru vineyards and another place to look for great value in Burgundy.
The 2009 Bouchard Père et Fils Auxey-Duresses Les Duresses is a lovely companion for tonight’s dinner, French Onion Soup. I can also see pairing this with other regional classics such as Beef Burgundy. Even a simple mid-afternoon snack of French cheeses (Saint-andré, Brie and Comte), fresh baguette and salad would be a great accompaniment for this delightful wine.
French Onion Soup
Renowned for exceptional quality, Bouchard Père et Fils is one of Burgundy’s oldest and most prestigious producers. Established in 1731, the Domaine has grown over the centuries to encompass 130 hectares (321 acres) of the Côte d’Or’s finest vines, including 12 hectares in Grand Cru and 74 hectares in Premier Cru vineyards. The diversity of Bouchard’s portfolio is united by the House’s dedication to producing the purest expressions of Burgundy’s unique appellations. The result – true terroir-driven wines of consistent high quality.
Thanksgiving Wines: Pairings for the Big Feast
White wine on the Thanksgiving table
There has been a distinct chill in the air and the east coast has already seen a significant snowstorm. There’s no denying that winter, and the holidays, are fast approaching. While I’m not necessarily looking forward to the biting cold days ahead, I’m eagerly awaiting the holiday season! The next two months promise to be filled with plenty of feasting, celebration and a steady flow of delicious wine…merriment that will stave off winter’s hold for a while, at least.
With Thanksgiving just a few weeks away, family chefs across the nation have already begun planning their menus and experimenting with new recipes. The beauty of Thanksgiving, the reason that it tops my list of favorite holidays, is that it is a celebration of food and family. Not only does the holiday give gourmands more reason than ever to run wild in the kitchen, it is a welcome opportunity for oenophiles to show their stuff too. The cooks are already ahead of the game. It’s time for us wine lovers to plan our attack and seek out the very best wine pairings for the grandest of feasts. So wine lovers, what will you bring to the Thanksgiving table this year?
Pairing wines with Thanksgiving dinner is easier than one might think. The meal itself features abundant flavorful side dishes, all with a gorgeous, simply roasted turkey as the centerpiece. One could argue that just about any wine can work with Thanksgiving, due to the vastness of the meal and diversity of flavors within, but there are certain wines that elevate this feast, bringing it to a whole new level. Here are our suggestions for some truly knockout Thanksgiving wine pairings…
Wine Pairings for Hors d’oeuvres and First Courses
The wine you choose for kicking-off your Thanksgiving feast should have some bubbles! Champagne or sparkling wine makes an ideal pairing for hors d’oeuvres ranging from charcuterie and cheese plates, to soups and salads. Cheese almost always makes its way into the appetizers for a large party and the refreshing acidity and bubbles in sparkling wine cut right through the richness and saltiness of any assortment of cheeses, from Brie to Stilton. This Thanksgiving, we’ve selected several champagnes and domestic sparkling wines for Turkey Day pairings:
NV Henriot Brut Souverain ($50) – Recently awarded 93 points from Wine Spectator, this champagne has long been one of our favorites. A blend of 50% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs and 50% Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims, the Brut Souverain is aged in the quiet darkness of Champagne Henriot’s Gallo-Roman crayeres. These dramatic cellars, unique to the Champagne region, are carved out of chalk 60 feet underground and provide optimal aging conditions. Upon release, the Brut Souverain has been aged to perfection. Its rich, elegant style is lovely as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to variety of dishes from hors d’oeuvres straight through to a fruit-based dessert.
NV Delamotte Brut Blanc de Blancs ($55) – This vivacious champagne, made from 100% Chardonnay, has satisfying richness while being exquisitely elegant at the same time. Delamotte has been producing champagne since 1760 and is the sister house to renowned Champagne Salon. Situated in the grand cru commune Mesnil-Sur-Oger amongst the finest Champagne producing vineyards, Champagne Delamotte is a reflection of this unique, exceptional terroir. The style of this blanc de blancs is well suited to Thanksgiving festivities.
Look no further than New York State for some sensational sparkling wines that are wonderful for Thanksgiving and the holiday season. The Chateau Frank sparkling wines are the very best in quality and offer enticing value as well. For a truly American holiday like Thanksgiving, it is only fitting to show off some of our country’s finest wines…
2006 Chateau Frank Blanc de Blancs Finger Lakes ($29) – This blanc de blancs is one of our new favorite 100% Chardonnay sparkling wines from Finger Lakes producer Dr. Frank. This bubbly has a sublime voluptuous froth, great complexity, elegant flavors of honeysuckle, citrus and ginger, all undercut with refreshing, zippy acidity that make it the ideal companion for appetizers and first courses.
NV Chateau Frank Célèbre Rosé Finger Lakes ($20) – The festive color of this sparkling rosé will look stunning on your Thanksgiving Day table and in the hands of your dinner guests. Made from 100% estate grown Pinot Meunier grapes and crafted in the traditional French Crémant style, this sparkling rosé offers rich raspberry and strawberry aromas, lush cherry flavors and beautiful, delicate bubbles.
Wine Pairings for Thanksgiving Dinner
Zinfandel
As I mentioned before, I’ve always thought it was nice to feature a few American wines at Thanksgiving. Red Zinfandel is the first wine that comes to mind, especially since it has an interesting immigration story of its own. Let’s be clear, we are not talking about semi-sweet, pink-colored White Zinfandel, which has managed to disgrace the grape’s name. In stark contrast, the Zinfandels that I adore are rich, robust, red wines that sing aromas of ripe briar fruit, dark cherries, currants and spice. They are big, intense wines that pair well with a variety of foods. These wines are akin to the gravy for your Thanksgiving bird.
The history of America’s Zinfandel can be traced to roots in Croatia, where it is named Crljenak Kaštelanski, then to Italy, where it is Primitivo. The grape was brought to the Boston area in the early 19th century, by the Austrian Imperial Nursery, and named Zinfandel (a name whose origins are unclear). By the mid 19th century, the grape had made its way to sunny California, where it was a popular table grape and dried for sweet raisins. A few years later, California recognized Zin as viable for winemaking, and adopted the grape as a signature American varietal.
Zinfandel has extensive heritage in America, and an immigration story that reaches far beyond our borders. The lush fruit character and versatility of these wines make them an ideal pairing for your turkey along with all the trimmings.
The Zinfandel to pour this Thanksgiving is the 2009 Ridge Vineyards Zinfandel Geyserville ($35). Wine Advocate critic Antonio Galloni praises this impressive wine, awarding it with an attractive score of 94 points.
“The 2009 Geyserville is a gorgeous wine. It shows expressive inner perfume, sweet black cherries, menthol and minerals. This is an understated, exceptionally elegant red endowed with considerable finesse and fabulous overall balance. A round, sensual finish makes it impossible to resist a second taste…” – Antonio Galloni
Pinot Noir
Pinot’s beautiful cherry fruit aromas and flavors, combined with its characteristic earthy quality, make it just perfect for Thanksgiving menus. Harvest season ingredients such as butternut squash, sweet potatoes, brussel sprouts, mushrooms, roasted root veggies, nuts and dried berries are all accentuated by the character of Pinot Noir. Those Pinots from the West Coast (California, Oregon and Washington State) tend to be more fruit-forward, which is a great complement for turkey meat. Pinots from Burgundy are often lighter bodied with an earthy-minerally quality, quite similar to the character of the ingredients that show up on the Thanksgiving table. Any of the Pinots listed below will work marvelously with your feast…
2009 Capiaux Cellars Pinot Noir Widdoes Vineyard Russian River Valley ($35) – A delicious and sweet-fruited single-vineyard Pinot Noir with lush berry flavors, earthy undertones, full juicy body and a smooth, rich texture. Sean Capiaux, owner and winemaker of Capiaux Cellars, is a Pinot Noir expert with an impressive winemaking resume, including Jordan, Pine Ridge and Peter Michael in California and Houghton Winery in Australia.
2008 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Yamhill Cuvee Willamette Valley ($37) – With its dark fruit, black cherry, lively spice notes and impeccable structure, your bird is calling for the Yamhill Cuvee this Thanksgiving. Domaine Serene Winery and Vineyard was founded in 1989 by husband and wife team, Ken and Grace Evenstad. The Evenstad’s are advocates for sustainable farming, practicing dry farming techniques on their vineyards, meaning that they never use artificial irrigation or tap into local rivers to water their vines. Domaine Serene specializes in world class Pinot Noirs, while also producing excellent Chardonnay and Syrah.
We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again, we can get enough of 2009 Burgundy. They are simply irresistible. Don’t feel guilty about uncorking them this Thanksgiving…even if their projected prime is still a few years away!
2009 Domaine Michel Magnien Bourgogne Rouge ($25) – Rich black cherry and blackcurrant aromas and flavors are dressed up with baking spices and subtle floral aromas. You’ll hear, “Please pass the Burgundy” more than anything else with this stellar Pinot on the table.
2008 Domaine Bernard Moreau Bourgogne Rouge ($20) – This is exceptional red Burgundy for the price. Lovely red cherry aromas give way to an earthy accent of briar patch. The vibrant acidity and lengthy satisfying finish make this a superb choice for the Thanksgiving feast.
White Wine Options
Aromatic white wines work especially well with Thanksgiving dinner for several reasons. Grapes such as Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Riesling can be vinified into dry wines that have slight amounts of residual sugar. This hint of sweetness, combined with the fragrant and sometimes tropical aromas and flavors in the wine, pairs wonderfully with Thanksgiving Day spreads, which often incorporate sweet elements as well (think sweet potatoes and cranberry sauce). Meanwhile, the naturally high acidity of these types of wine is the perfect foil for rich, hearty dishes.
Chardonnay is another excellent option for Thanksgiving and a classic pairing for roasted turkey. You can go with either a white Burgundy or a new world Chardonnay with subtle oak influence.
2009 Breggo Cellars Pinot Gris Wiley Vineyard Anderson Valley ($27) Located in Northern California’s rustic, pastoral Anderson Valley, Breggo Cellars specializes in stunning wines from Alsatian varietals – Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Riesling. Breggo means “sheep” in the local dialect, homage to the area’s native population of sheep. The winery property, a 203-acre farm, was one of the first sheep ranches in Anderson Valley. This small production (only 350 cases produced), single-vineyard Pinot Gris offers delightful notes of pear, baked apple and honey, with a touch of candied lemon peel. Rich and medium-bodied, flavors of apricot preserves, melon and Meyer lemon dance on the palate.
2009 Breggo Cellars Gewurztraminer Anderson Valley ($27) – This exotic and enticing wine shows opulent aromas of orange zest, lychee, honeysuckle and rose, enhanced by notes of sweet lemon and apricot. Elegant and refreshing on the palate, bright tropical flavors mingle with zippy acidity and a long, lovely finish. Only 398 cases made.
2009 Francois Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin ($25) – Crafted in a range of styles from bone dry to sweet, François Chidaine’s Chenin Blancs share an ethereal quality and great complexity. A brilliant wine with aromas of lemon rind, honey suckle, citrus blossom and white pepper; on the palate, the tangy character is accompanied by honeyed citrus flavors, with hints of bitter almond skin. The finish lingers gracefully. A truly exceptional wine with the resounding acidity and brightness needed to emphasize the elements of Thanksgiving’s banquet.
2008 Ramey Wine Cellars Chardonnay Russian River Valley ($28) – “Bright yellow. Precise, mineral-driven aromas of pear, spicecake, iodine and wet concrete, along with a sexy floral aspect. At once tactile and fine-grained, with subtle smokiness giving depth to the flavors of Meyer lemon, minerals and candied ginger. Tightens up toward the back, finishing quite suave, with strong lift and cut to its ginger-laced orchard fruit flavors.” – Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, 91 pts
2008 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Genevrières ($85) “As it almost always is, here the nose is spicier still and more refined as well with striking complexity adding compelling interest to the floral, citrus and white fruit aromas. The rich, concentrated and classy flavors possess plenty of extract that confers a seductive texture that carries over to the impressively long and harmonious finish. This is unmistakably at another level, at least at this early juncture.” – Burghound, 92 pts
Rosé
Rosé is one of my favorite wines to pair with Thanksgiving dinner. Not only is the wine’s color cheerful and festive, the characteristic red berry flavors make it the ideal choice for Thanksgiving. Incredibly food friendly, Rosé provides the best of both worlds, combining the brisk acidity and refreshing quality of a white wine with the body and structure of a red wine, making it compatible with a range of dishes. To quote Julia Child, “Rosés can be served with anything.” The versatility of the wines below make them perfect pairings for Thanksgiving’s bounty, complimenting everything from the mashed yams to the stuffing.
Steal! 2010 Mulderbosch Vineyards Rose Stellenbosch ($12) – This is a dark cranberry-colored, robust and refreshing rosé made from Cabernet Sauvignon, showcasing complex aromas and flavors of rose petals, lime zest and wild strawberry.
2010 Prieure de Montezargues Tavel Rosé ($21) – Enticing style and finesse, showcasing raspberry and subtle peach aromas. On the palate, red berry flavors mingle with Provencal herbs and spices, resounding in the full-body, freshness and length of this gorgeous wine.
2010 Bieler Pere et Fils Sabine Rose Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence ($14) – Aromas and flavors of raspberry, cherry and wild strawberry shine, along with racy minerality and bright, food friendly acidity. Charles Bieler has been crafting his delicious Provençal rosé, Bieler Père et Fils Sabine, for the last 5 years. Named for his daughter, Sabine, who was born the same year as the wine’s first vintage, this rosé honors Charles’ father, Philippe, who introduced he and his sister to the wine business. This rosé continues the Bieler family reputation that was built over 13 years at Chateau Routas and the last three years with Three Thieves.
Mt. Difficulty Winemaker’s Dinner at ’21′ Club
Tuesday, July 19th 2011
Last week I had the pleasure of attending a sumptuous wine dinner at New York City’s ’21′ Club, hosted by Matt Dicey, the winemaker of Mt. Difficulty Wines in Central Otago, New Zealand. The dinner was held in the elegant, upstairs dining room, Upstairs at ’21′, surrounded by vibrant murals of New York landmarks created exclusively for ’21′ by Brooklyn-based artist Wynne Evans.
Mt. Difficulty is a boutique winery located in Bannockburn in Central Otago, New Zealand and owns some of the region’s oldest vineyards. Central Otago is the world’s most southern vineyard area and has unique, unpredictable temperature fluctuations on a daily basis, as well as from season to season, which turns out to be a plus for growing finicky Pinot Noir. The distinctive microclimate of Bannockburn provides hot summers and cool autumns, coaxing the very best out its Pinot Noir grapes. The namesake of the nearby mountain that shelters the vineyards, Mt. Difficulty Wines is an exceptional New Zealand producer.
Here at The Wine Cellarage, we’ve been fans of Mt. Difficulty for quite some time, which is why we were thrilled to find out that Matt Dicey was coming to town and jumped at the opportunity to partner with ’21′ Club for this special wine dinner. Matt is a fourth generation winemaker and has been making Mt. Difficulty Wines since 1999. Matt was a wonderful host and gave captivating introductions for each of the wines that we tasted, going into the differences in soil types, the mixture of clays and gravels found in the region, along with the influence of the region’s climate on grape-growing there. Matt’s jovial disposition and informative dialogues made the evening truly memorable.
Guests were welcomed with a glass of the 2010 Roaring Meg Pinot Gris and a delicious selection of passed canapés, including tuna tartare and lobster and crab salad. The Pinot Gris was crisp and refreshing, cooling everyone down as they came in from the intense heat!
The dinner, prepared by Executive Chef John Greeley, began with seared sea scallops over English pea risotto, razor clam nage and kefir. The scallops were paired with the 2008 Mt. Difficulty Estate Pinot Gris and the 2008 Mt. Difficulty Estate Sauvignon Blanc, offering an interesting juxtaposition. The Pinot Gris complimented the dish perfectly, enhancing the inherent sweetness of the scallops and peas with its aromatics, floral and tropical qualities. The Sauvignon Blanc had a more racy acidity that cut right through the richness of the dish, while its herbaceous notes played harmoniously alongside the pea risotto. Both wines were a great pairing, but I preferred the Estate Pinot Gris.
Next up, we were presented with sockeye salmon, a fricassee of mushrooms, sweet corn purée, lemon butter and dry chilis. This lovely salmon was paired with the 2006 Mt. Difficulty Estate Chardonnay and the 2009 Roaring Meg Pinot Noir, both working marvelously with different elements in the dish and really demonstrated that both varietals can offer an enticing pairing for salmon. The Estate Chardonnay’s red apple notes had a pleasant interplay with the corn purée, while the wine’s creaminess highlighted the splendid richness of the sockeye and lemon butter, finishing with palate cleansing, fresh minerality. On the other hand, the Roaring Meg Pinot Noir complimented the earthiness of the mushroom medley and provided a refreshing contrast to the salmon’s rich texture and flavor.
By the time the third course arrived, animated conversation was as plentiful as the wine being poured and our table had covered a range of topics including biodynamic farming, sustainable energy and the differences between salmon from New Zealand and that from the Atlantic. The grilled lamb chop (cooked beautifully on the rare side) and belly were presented with an array of accompaniments – fine herbs with honey mustard, cherry tomatoes, zucchini blossom and smoked bacon. The lamb was paired with the 2008 Estate Pinot Noir and the single-vineyard 2008 Long Gully Pinot Noir, providing the opportunity to compare different bottlings from the same vintage.
The Estate Pinot Noir showed rich, black fruit and prevalent, balanced tannins and acidity, making for a wonderful pairing. Both Pinots shared rich dark fruit, black cherry and blackberry characteristics, yet the Long Gully had greater complexity and finesse. The Long Gully displayed wild berry flavors, currants and cassis, along with floral and violet aromas, velvety tannins and harmonious acidity that carried through on the long, sweet fruit finish.
The final course, a Pavlova filled with passion fruit coulis and exotic sorbets, was paired with the 2008 Roaring Meg Riesling. This vibrant dessert was the perfect finale to the dinner, where each element came together and made for an enchanting evening of magnificent wine, incredible food, flawless service and delightful ambiance.
2009 Burgundy – A Red & White-hot Vintage
One of Domaine Faiveley's vineyard sites in Burgundy
The buzz surrounding 2009 Burgundy began long before its release and now that these wines are available for purchase, the excitement over this truly spectacular vintage continues. While rumors that 2009 was going to be the next 2005 have been laid to rest for the most part, it is clear that both vintages share a superior quality and success that spans the entire region, from Chablis to Beaujolais. It is true that the praiseworthy 2009 vintage is the most widely successful since 2005, yet the two vintages are different and 2009 has something very enticing to offer, the drink me now element!
At this point, it would be remiss to not mention the profundity of the 2008 vintage. The difference between ’08 and ’09 is that the former will require patience and needs more time in the cellar, whereas the latter is already showing marvelously – instant gratification.
Back to ’05 versus ’09. Dry conditions in 2005 caused vine stress and led to high tannin levels. These strong tannins plus the vintage’s higher acidity are the recipe for serious structure and great aging potential. Burgundy’s 2009 growing season was marked by a hot, sun-filled August with below average rainfall. However, there had already been enough rain in May, June and July to prevent drought, giving the fruit softer tannins and lower acidity than the conditions in 2005. The resulting ’09 Burgundies are delicious, fruity and showing beautifully now. Intensely fragrant with concentrated flavors, these wines are approachable in their youth, but will no doubt age as well as their great predecessors, such as those from the 1999 vintage.
2009 has proven to be terrific vintage for both red and white wines. The reds offer rich aromatics and fruit flavors, with soft tannins and pleasant textures. These Pinot Noirs may not age quite as long as their 2005 counterparts, yet they possess the allure that draws us to red Burgundy again and again, that elusive elegance and grace. The delicate fruit aromas, floral fragrances and whisperings of exotic spices sing in this superb vintage.
The 2009 white Burgundies are equally as seductive. These rich, soft Chardonnays are nothing short of being delightful to drink now. Excellent balance, plentiful fruit and pure, persistent minerality give these wines poise and magnetism.
The youthful charm of the 2009 vintage makes these wines extremely difficult to resist. Those who have patience will surely be rewarded, but one could argue, why not start drinking the 2009s while I’m waiting for my 2005s to become more approachable?
Buying Guide: Top Producers and Wines
Christophe Cordier is a hot name in Burgundy’s winemaking scene. Located in the Maconnais region, in Fuissé, Domaine Cordier is known for premium wines made from the very best vineyard sites. Pure, focused aromatics and opulent, intense well-balanced flavors are hallmarks of Cordier’s style. His wines offer both extraordinary quality and value. Christophe is a proponent of crafting wines from hand-harvested, low yielding vines and minimal intervention in the vineyard. Fermentation is carried out in wood, giving the wines integrated flavors and incredible texture.
Both the 2009 Domaine Cordier Pouilly-Fuisse Vielles Vignes ($24) and the 2009 Domaine Cordier Vire Clesse Vieilles Vignes ($37) are excellent white Burgundies to try. At these prices, you could open these wines and enjoy them any night of the week!
Domaine Marc Morey is one of the Côte d’Or’s most renowned and sought after producers. In the 1950s, Marc Morey began making wine in the cellar of his family’s 100 year-old home, establishing his domaine in the heart of the Chassagne-Montrachet village. Today, Morey’s daughter Marie-Jo and her husband Bernard Mollard carry on the legacy that he began, making focused, terroir-driven wines. The domaine’s ownership spans nearly 25 acres of Villages, Premier and Grand Cru vineyards. The couple’s daughter, who works with them at the estate, will continue the family’s tradition of winemaking.
We are excited about everything that Domaine Marc Morey has to offer, from their 2009 Domaine Marc Morey Rully 1er Cru Rabource to their 2009 Domaine Marc Morey Chevalier Montrachet. These are white Burgundies that you won’t want to miss out on.
Domaine Joblot, located in the tiny village of Givry, in Burgundy’s Côte Chalonnaise, is a small producer crafting some very serious red Burgundies. Here, brothers Jean-Marc and Vincent Joblot work together to create powerful, fragrant wines that are truly sublime. The brothers take meticulous care in their winemaking, carefully selecting grapes from low yielding vines, destemming 100% of their fruit and using the finest oak barrels. The resulting wines are limited production and superior quality with a style resembling the best of Chambolle-Musigny. It is no wonder that Domaine Joblot has developed a cult following!
Domaine Joblot wines are superior quality at incredible price points. Available quantities of the 2009 Domaine Joblot Givry Celliers aux Moines and the 2009 Domaine Joblot Givry Clos de la Servoisine will not last long.
Domaine Joseph Drouhin is one of Burgundy’s finest and most important domains, showcasing the very best of each area within the region. From the beginning, Drouhin’s style has been elegant, balanced and harmonious, always striving for perfection in its wines. Domaine Joseph Drouhin wines possess a distinctive purity of taste. In their youth, they have fruity and alluring aromas, and as they age, these wines develop extravagant complexity. Crafted to age gracefully for up to forty years or more, the Drouhin portfolio is filled with gems from the very best Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards.
Some of Domaine Drouhin white Burgundies to try now, or to add to your cellar, include the 2009 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches and the 2009 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet. For Drouhin red Burgundy, the 2009 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Volnay and the 2009 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Vosne-Romanée are superb choices!
Henri Boillot is a 5th generation winemaker in Burgundy and has established Maison Henri Boillot as an exemplary Burgundian producer. Boillot family has been growing vines in the region since 1855, founding Domaine Jean Boillot in 1885. Henri took over the family estate in 2005, after making a name for himself with his own négociant business and his rich, powerfully styled Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. Henri’s stunning wines convey his meticulous technique and passion for natural, sustainable farming practices that maintain the soil’s authentic character.
Henri Boillot’s wines are produced from only the finest sites in the Cote d’Or. Whether a Bourgogne Blanc or Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, Boillot uses the very best grapes, resulting in wines of sublime purity and distinction.
If you’re interested in trying these extraordinary red and white Burgundies, we recommend the 2009 Maison Henri Boillot Volnay Les Chevrets, the 2009 Maison Henri Boillot Meursault Les Genevrieres and the 2009 Maison Henri Boillot Puligny Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere.
Domaine Faiveley is located at the heart of both Burgundy and the Côtes de Nuits, in Nuits-Saint-Georges. Founded by Pierre Faiveley in 1825, Domaine Faiveley has been passed down through seven generations. The family owns vineyards in some of Burgundy’s very best regions, including Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard, Volnay, Puligny-Montrachet, Mercurey and more.
Domaine Faiveley is known for its fine, age worthy wines, the result of exceptional vineyard sites and a particularly lengthy fermentation period. Faiveley’s wines are transferred to oak barrels for maturation and stored in their vaulted cellars, which date back to the 19th century.
The 2009 Domaine Joseph Faiveley Chablis Les Clos, the 2009 Domaine Joseph Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin Clos des Issarts and the 2009 Domaine Joseph Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin Les Cazetiers are just a few of this legendary producer’s highly-rated wines.
Oregon Pinot Noir: Treasures from a Terrific Vintage
Barrels of wine at the Domaine Drouhin Estate in the Willamette Valley.
For the past few months, all eyes have been on the 2008 vintage for Oregon Pinot Noir. Nothing gets people’s attention like a write-up in the New York Times – Toasting a Vintage, With Few Quibbles, and when that is followed by an article in Wine Spectator – Oregon’s Natural Wonder (February 28th issue), you can be sure that wines from the noted producers will start flying off the shelves. All of the excitement around the 2008 Oregon Pinot Noir vintage is well deserved, as these are truly terrific wines from one of America’s finest wine producing areas. Oregon’s wine industry has been given limited time in the limelight, often overshadowed by California, but this burgeoning region has something very special, delicious success with fickle Pinot Noir.
Pioneering Pinot in the Pacific Northwest
Wine grapes were planted in Oregon in the second half of the 19th century and the industry grew steadily during that time. Then, following prohibition, the state’s wine industry enjoyed a prosperous resurgence, but this didn’t last and advancement was slow until the early 1960s, when several pioneering winemakers entered the scene. Many of these visionary winemakers were transplants from California who challenged the opposing viewpoints of their UC Davis professors and were united by the belief that Pinot Noir was better suited to Oregon’s growing conditions, especially those of the Willamette Valley.
Among the pioneers was Richard Sommer, who founded Oregon’s first estate winery in 1961, Hillcrest Vineyard. Sommer, along with fellow Californian immigrants Charles Coury and David Lett, were the first to plant Pinot Noir vines. However, it was David Lett, founder of Eyrie Vineyards, who came to be known as “Papa Pinot”. At the youthful age of 25, with a UC Davis enology degree in hand, Lett moved to Oregon to find the perfect place to grow Burgundian grape varietals, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. He found just that place in the Willamette Valley, in the Red Hills of Dundee, and established Eyrie Vineyards in 1966 with his wife Diana. Along with pioneering Pinot Noir, Lett was the very first vintner to plant Pinot Gris in America. In 1979, at a French tasting competition in Paris, the 1975 Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Noir won first place against Burgundian counterparts, a victory that catapulted Oregon into the spotlight as a serious wine region and a producer of world-class Pinot Noir.
The Eyrie Vineyards 1979 win was followed by another triumph in 1980, this time at a competition arranged by the renowned winemaker Robert Drouhin of Burgundy. This time, the Eyrie Vineyards Pinot came in a close second to one of Drouhin’s Grand Cru wines. These consecutive, consistent results spurred Drouhin to establish his own winery in Oregon in 1988, not too far from Lett’s vineyards.
Cool Climate Lovers
There are several important climatic characteristics to consider when studying viticulture in Oregon. First and foremost, it is the dampest winegrowing area in the Pacific Northwest, yet most of the rain comes between October and April, sparing the vines of damage and waterlog during the height of their growing season. Unlike Washington, whose vineyards are shadowed by the Cascade Mountains, Oregon is completely exposed to the air currents that come off the Pacific Ocean. This results in damp, yet mild winters and is also the cause of relatively cool summers. It is important to note that Oregon suffered from a drought between the years 2000 and 2005, which temporarily disrupted the state’s signature wet climate.
Aside from being damp, damp, damp, there is little else that is consistent about Oregon’s weather. Temperatures during the growing and ripening seasons vary greatly from year to year, which means that the wines are more apt to differ between vintages, especially in the past 15 years. This talk of capricious weather brings us back to our fickle friend Pinot Noir, which happens to thrive in this cool climate, resulting in some of the best and most complex expressions of the grape anywhere.
Quality Over Quantity
Oregon’s wine industry has focused on quality over quantity, which is why it is rare to see low-priced wines from there. Trends in Oregon winemaking include meticulous viticulture techniques, controlling grape yields, labor-intensive pruning methods and organic and biodynamic farming. Many Oregonian vintners have chosen to grow “Dijon clones” of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. These clones produce lower yields and ripen earlier, making them a great match for Oregon’s climate. Many producers are deeply invested in sustainability and land preservation, believing that organic and biodynamic farming methods are the best way to maintain the integrity of their soils and vineyards. These conscientious practices certainly show through in the quality and purity of Oregon’s Pinot Noirs!
Willamette Valley AVA
The most important and largest wine region within Oregon is the eminent Willamette Valley. This American Viticulture Area (AVA) runs west along the Willamette River, on the slopes of the Coast Range, extending for 150 miles from the Columbia River in Portland south to Eugene. The Willamette Valley is home to over 200 wineries and more than 12,000 vineyard acres, of which Pinot Noir is the crown jewel.
The Willamette Valley enjoys a temperate climate year-round, and although damp in the winter months, the summers are warm with long daylight hours, providing the ideal conditions for growing superb Pinot Noir. Long days of warm sunshine are followed by cool nights, giving the grapes the opportunity to develop great flavor and complexity. Within the valley, there are six smaller sub-AVAs, which distinguish the unique terroirs within the larger area. These AVAs, established between the years 2000 and 2006, are Chehalem Mountains, Dundee Hills, Eola-Amity Hills, McMinnville, Ribbon Ridge and Yamhill-Carlton District.
A few fun and noteworthy facts on the sub-AVAs – the Chehalem Mountains AVA has the highest elevations, including Bald Peak, which rises over 1,600 feet above sea level. The Dundee Hills are known for their highly praised Pinots and reddish-colored clayey Jory loam soils, the namesake of the Red Hills of Dundee. The Eola-Amity Hills AVA enjoys consistent coastal winds that sweep in from the ocean through the mountains and balance the summer’s warmth. Fittingly, the name Eola is derived from the Greek god of wind, Aeolus. Finally, Yamhill-Carlton is the largest of all six sub-AVAs, with 1,200 vineyard acres.
Pinots to Purchase Now
Oregon’s 2008 growing season started out cold and wet, a pattern that held through the summer and was followed by late September rains. Vintners were dubious to say the least, and then, in early October, the sun came out just in time to finish ripening the grapes. The weather remained warm and sunny through the end of harvest, resulting in beautifully complex and impeccably balanced wines. With all of the attention the vintage has gotten, there’s no time to lose if you want to add the best of these wines to your collection, or at the very least, try them for yourself before they sell out! Here are some of our picks from this outstanding vintage:
From the Gerrie family’s 65-acre Willamette Valley estate, the 2008 Cristom Vineyards Pinot Noir Mt. Jefferson Cuvee is a great bottle to open now. Layered, complex aromas of red cherry, wild strawberry, herbal notes, mint, tealeaf, rose and roasted hazelnut are coaxed from the glass. The palate fills with flavors of cherry, wild berry and sweet spice, showing vibrant elegance, impeccable balance and an enduring finish.
Paul Gerrie and his wife Eileen established Cristom Vineyards in 1992. Paul left the east coast and a career in engineering in order to pursue his passion for terroir-driven wines, especially Pinot Noir. The Cristom Vineyards estate is home to eight different vineyards, six of which are named after family matriarchs.
St. Innocent Winery is one of our favorites…founded by Mark Vlossak in 1988, the winery specializes in handcrafted, single-vineyard wines from prime sites in the Willamette Valley and has consistently garnering praise for its extraordinary Pinot Noir. Vlossak is dedicated to producing fine wines of exquisite texture that echo each vineyard, as well as each individual vintage. These are excellent food wines, delightful to drink in their youth, while having great ageing potential.
The 2008 St. Innocent Winery Pinot Noir Momtazi Vineyard comes to us from the Willamette Valley’s McMinnville sub-AVA, located on a steep, south-facing hillside. The biodynamic Momtazi Vineyard is warmed by the valley below during the day and cooled by the winds that blow in off the coast at night. The resulting Pinot’s are rich, complex and intensely aromatic.
Adelsheim Vineyard is another favorite, an exceptional producer that is devoted to sustainable farming practices. Founders David and Ginny Adelsheim shared the dream of planting a vineyard and producing magnificent wines in the Chehalem Mountains area of the Willamette Valley and they have worked diligently to make that dream a delicious reality.
The 2008 Adelsheim Pinot Noir is a gorgeous expression of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir! Opulent, layered aromas of ripe cherry, raspberry, blackberry, violet and roasted coffee bean waft from the glass. The palate is greeted with full, rich cherry and berry flavors, sweet spice, luxuriantly smooth tannins, and a silken finish that lingers enticingly.
Co-owned by Robert Parker, Michael Etzel and Robert Roy, Beaux Frères Winery is yet another exemplary Oregon Pinot Noir producer. The partnership’s driving philosophy has always been to produce the very best Pinot from small yielding vines and to really convey the spirit of Beaux Frères Vineyard through their wines. The 2008 Beaux Freres Vineyard & Winery Pinot Noir Willamette Valley is a great intro to this fantastic winery, if you haven’t already had the pleasure of trying their wines!
Finally, from Burgundy transplant Robert Drouhin’s Willamette Valley estate – the 2008 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir Willamette Valley is a real delight. Youthful and complex, showing notes of cherry, spice and cedar, this superbly structured, elegantly textured and lively wine is ready to drink now, but will continue to age magnificently for another 10 to 15 years. As head of Burgundy’s renowned Maison Joseph Drouhin, Robert Drouhin recognized the Dundee Hills of the Willamette Valley as being a perfect place to grow Burgundy’s beloved Pinot Noir. Further inspired by David Lett’s success with his prized Eyrie Vineyards Pinots, Drouhin established his winery and is now joined by his daughter Véronique, whose passion and talent for winemaking continue the family legacy!
Getting Acquainted with Burgundy
Bottles of Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru Burgundy
Burgundy is one of the world’s most intriguing wine regions, best known for its exceptional Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays produced in an awe-inspiring array of styles. With its multitude of appellations and vineyards, each having a unique terrain, Burgundy offers an unsurpassed study in the highly sensitive nature of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to various growing conditions. While Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the most renowned of Burgundy’s grape varietals, the red Gamay and white Aligoté are also among the main grapes grown in the region. Gamay is the star of the Beaujolais region, flourishing in the granite soils there, and Aligoté is mainly used in sparkling wines.
Deciphering Burgundy’s classification system can be confusing, to say the least. When examining a wine list or an individual wine label, different vineyard names can appear next to a single village name, which is further complicated (thanks to Napoleonic Law) by the various vineyards having multiple owners, each producing their own wines for better or worse. Understanding Burgundy’s nomenclature and the characteristic styles of each region will give you an upper hand when shopping for your next bottle. So, how does the system work and what should we look for on the label?
First, let’s get acquainted with the five regions of Burgundy. From north to south, these are: Chablis, Côte d’Or (Côte de Nuits & Côte de Beaune), Côte Chalonnaise, Mâconnais and Beaujolais. Burgundy’s classification system is quite unique and is significantly different than that of Bordeaux. In Bordeaux, individual producers (château), are awarded Premier Cru or Grand Cru classifications, while in Burgundy, these classifications are given to individual vineyard sites, which are then elevated to Appellation Contrôlée (AC) status. Thus, Bordeaux has about 60 appellations compared to Burgundy’s 600 plus!
Regional Appellations
In ascending order, Burgundy’s hierarchy begins with Regional Appellation Contrôlées (ACs), which always include the word Bourgogne in their name. There are generic Bourgognes, which can come from anywhere in Burgundy, such as Bourgogne Rouge and Bourgogne Blanc, as well as more exclusive regional ACs; i.e. Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune.
District Appellations
The next step up the ladder are District ACs, which exclude the word Bourgogne in their title and are named according to the wine regions of Burgundy. District ACs include Chablis, Mâcon, Côte de Chalonnaise, and so on.
Village (a.k.a. Commune) Appellations
Next up, we have Village Appellations, which are named after specific villages and divided into two groups: non-Premier Cru villages and the more elite Premier Cru villages. The name of the village (commune) will always appear on the label and will sometimes be accompanied by a specific vineyard, if the wine comes from only one vineyard site. However, if the vineyard is not Premier Cru, its name will appear in smaller print on the label.
Premier Cru Appellations
Premier Crus are esteemed single-vineyard appellations, which explains the plethora of ACs in Burgundy. To further complicate things, each vineyard (called climat in Burgundy) can have multiple owners, each producing their own wine. A vineyard under sole-ownership is distinguished as monopole on the wine label. Premier Cru status will almost always appear in print on the label, but may sometimes be designated by the village and vineyard name sharing the same font size.
Grand Cru Appellations
Finally, at the very top, we have the most prestigious Burgundies of all, those distinguished as Grand Cru appellations. There are a total of 33 Grand Crus, one in Chablis, and the remaining 32 in Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, along the Côte d’Or. Labels of Grand Cru wines simply state the vineyard name, since these names are so well recognized in the region. For example, Chambertin and Montrachet are Grand Cru vineyards, located in Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune respectively.
When considering the wines from the Côte d’Or, we encounter a number of hyphenated names, such as Gevrey-Chambertin and Puligny-Montrachet. The reason for this? In the early 1900s, some of the villages along the Côte d’Or decided to hyphenate their village name to their very best vineyard, in order to increase sales of their village wines. In the case of Puligny-Montrachet, Puligny is the village, and Montrachet is the Grand Cru vineyard.
Wine Styles by Region
Chablis
Chablis, always 100% Chardonnay, is arguably the most elegant expression of this grape in the world. This northern-most region in Burgundy, located in the valley of the Serein River, has a challenging, cool climate, which is reflected in its wines. The soils of the region are predominantly limestone, with the best wines, the Grand Cru and Premier Crus coming specifically from Kimmeridgian limestone. Characteristically, the wines of the region are lighter bodied, with citrus and green fruit flavors, high acidity, and refreshing minerality.
Côte d’Or
The “Golden Slopes” are so named because the vineyard leaves turn a brilliant gold color at the end of the growing season, after harvest. To the north, the Côte de Nuits produces full-bodied, age-worthy, Pinot Noirs that are second to none. These Pinots offer aromas and flavors of cherry, raspberry and strawberry that evolve into savory, gamey characteristics. To the south, the Côte de Beaune produces some of the world’s most complex, premium Chardonnays as well as lighter styled Pinot Noirs. These Chardonnays are fermented and aged in new French oak and can age beautifully for a decade. They have a fuller body, intriguing texture and unrivaled complexity.
Côte Chalonnaise
The Côte Chalonnaise produces Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that are similar to those of the Côte d’Or, but at lower price points.
Mâcon
Farther south in the Mâcon region, Chardonnay is King. Thriving in the warmer climate and limestone soils, these wines are characteristically rich and full-bodied with ripe citrus flavors. The most distinguished wine of the region is Poully-Fuissé, offering aromas and flavors of peach and melon, and savory qualities from barrel aging in new French oak.
Beaujolais
Beaujolais is home to the Gamay grape, which produces fruity red wines that taste of cherry and raspberry. A special winemaking technique called carbonic maceration can impart unique aromas of bananas, bubblegum and sweet spice. Beaujolais often gets dismissed as a less than serious wine region that produces insipid Beaujolais Nouveau, the youthful wine released each year on the third Thursday of November. However, there are those of us who appreciate the fun, fruity character of Beaujolais Nouveau, and find the presence of banana aromas in wine to be more interesting than off-putting. Wines labeled as Beaujolais-Villages AC come from the villages in the north of the region and make up a quarter of production. The Beaujolais Crus are the most distinct, highest quality wines of the region. There are ten cru villages in total: Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin à Vent, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Morgan, Régnié, Côte de Brouilly and Brouilly.
Terroir and Burgundy’s Classification System
Terroir is a French term that encompasses the individual soil, landscape and climate of a particular growing region. This concept is the backbone of Burgundy’s classification system. The Cistercian monks, who began acquiring vineyards in the region during the 11th century, were the first to explore, observe and record the affects of terroir on grape growing. Discovering the influence of individual growing sites led the Cistercians to begin recognizing the various Crus. Consequently, the Burgundian classification system, with its scores of appellations, was born.
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The Magic of Dujac
Domaine Dujac
My first meeting with Jeremy Seysses occurred as he dined with Robert Bohr, formerly the wine director of Cru. Robert had selected a bottle of Villa Bucci Verdicchio Riserva 2005, and a magnum of the Conti Constanti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1997. Four worries immediately came to mind.
1. Crap, I hope both of these bottles are still in stock.
2. Crap, what kind of glass would they prefer for the verdicchio?
3. Crap, do we have perfectly polished glassware?
4. Who the hell is Dujac and why are the wines so expensive?
A year later, after meeting and tasting with Jeremy, only three of these worries still remain, and the fourth has been answered to great satisfaction. Simply put, Dujac is one of the finest domaines in not just Burgundy, but in the world.
The best of Burgundy often consists of small, family-run operations, and Domaine Dujac is no different. Jeremy’s father, Jacques, first purchased Domaine Marcel Graillet in Morey-St.-Denis in 1967. Slowly but sure over the last 40 years, their holdings have increased within the Côtes-de-Nuits, encompassing the other important villages of Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, and Vosne-Romanée. A small négociant company, Dujac Fils et Père, has also been established, and these wines demonstrate the same, exacting standards and nuances as the Domaine wines. Above all else, the wines of Dujac are all about the most natural and unobtrusive expression of grape and terroir in a bottle.
Before the Burgundies were poured, we tasted two wines of a relatively new project of the family, Domaine de Triennes, in Southwest France. Even with my enormous handicap of having virtually no blind-tasting skills, both the white and red Vin de Pays du Var were immediately recognizable as viognier and a cabernet-syrah blend. The viognier was light, fragrant, with none of the heaviness or lack of acidity that often mars these wines as being tiring to drink. The cabernet and syrah, along with a dollop of merlot, each contributed its intrinsic, dominant qualities of cassis and black pepper, respectively, and the result was a harmonious blend of which most Napa vintners would be jealous. The oak from older Dujac Burgundy barrels played a minor role, gently buttressing the fruit with a touch of smoke and roundness.
Of course, it was still the Burgundies that stole the show. Of the five from the 2008 vintage, two stood out unanimously: the Puligny-Montrachet from the négociant arm, and the Chambolle-Musigny.
The Puligny was exactly as it should be, a pure, unadulterated version of young chardonnay with multiple dimensions. A mix of citrus, stone and tropical fruit aromas weaved in and out, all with a refreshing backbone of acidity and minerals. Not knowing where the grapes were sourced, my best guess is that a significant amount came from Premier Cru vineyards. While it does not quite reach the level of Grand Cru, it certainly drinks as well as many Les Pucelles or Les Demoiselles, and betters many Premier Crus. The only catch? This wine is made in such tiny quantities that only 209 cases were produced. And the pricing is half as it should be!
The Chambolle-Musigny, which to my surprise was tasted after the Gevrey-Chambertin, was the star of the reds. Clive Coates sums up the village poetically: “Delicate, yes; but feeble, no.” This eloquent description fits Dujac to a tee. The wine is silky, seductive, with sweet, soft tannins that invite you to take another sip. Ripe wild strawberries and red cherries dominated the bouquet. While the Gevrey and the Morey were both very good quality for the village-level, they were simply outclassed by the Chambolle. The finest village-level Chambolle I had tasted up to this point had been the Cathiard Clos de l’Orme; the Dujac is right there as well.
The most insightful part of the hour spent with Jeremy, however, was not tasting the wines themselves. Unlike many other winemakers, proprietors, importers or distributors, Jeremy simply told a few brief stories, interspersed with a couple of sarcastic yet observant remarks about the wine industry in general. Aside from providing some technical information, he saw no reason to boast of his wines, nor recite ratings from popular publications. Is it a mere coincidence, then, that both the business and wine making philosophy is one and the same, that is, to let the wines speak for themselves?
Left Coast Cellars
2005 Left Coast Cellars Pinot Noir Cali's Cuvee
For the unabashed pinot noir lovers who do not wish to spend a personal fortune on Burgundy, cannot land on the coveted mailing lists of Russian River Valley, and find many of the Santa Barbara pinots masquerading as syrah, Oregon has become an treasure trove. Furthermore, the winemaking styles of the Willamette Valley are diverse, and there is good value to be found in every price range. From the firmer, Burgundian style of Domaine Drouhin, to the supple, fruit-forward wines of Beaux Frères, the spectrum is wide indeed.
Left Coast Cellars, headed by former Harlan vineyard manager Luke McCollom, produces two different pinot noirs, different in style, yet representative of the Willamette Valley. Cali’s Cuvée is a great example of what Oregon does best: a fresh wine, with fragrant raspberry and cranberry notes, and above all else, elegant and easily paired with food. Latitude 45, a single vineyard production that sees extended aging before release, and noted for the 45th parallel that intersects so many great Burgundian vineyards, is denser, earthier, and richer expression of Oregon pinot noir. It broods in the glass and can only benefit from a quick decant.
Pinot noir is perhaps the most food-friendly and versatile red wine around. Cali’s Cuvée and Latitude 45 would be great additions to any holiday dining table.