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Blog
Thanksgiving Wines: Pairings for the Big Feast
White wine on the Thanksgiving table
There has been a distinct chill in the air and the east coast has already seen a significant snowstorm. There’s no denying that winter, and the holidays, are fast approaching. While I’m not necessarily looking forward to the biting cold days ahead, I’m eagerly awaiting the holiday season! The next two months promise to be filled with plenty of feasting, celebration and a steady flow of delicious wine…merriment that will stave off winter’s hold for a while, at least.
With Thanksgiving just a few weeks away, family chefs across the nation have already begun planning their menus and experimenting with new recipes. The beauty of Thanksgiving, the reason that it tops my list of favorite holidays, is that it is a celebration of food and family. Not only does the holiday give gourmands more reason than ever to run wild in the kitchen, it is a welcome opportunity for oenophiles to show their stuff too. The cooks are already ahead of the game. It’s time for us wine lovers to plan our attack and seek out the very best wine pairings for the grandest of feasts. So wine lovers, what will you bring to the Thanksgiving table this year?
Pairing wines with Thanksgiving dinner is easier than one might think. The meal itself features abundant flavorful side dishes, all with a gorgeous, simply roasted turkey as the centerpiece. One could argue that just about any wine can work with Thanksgiving, due to the vastness of the meal and diversity of flavors within, but there are certain wines that elevate this feast, bringing it to a whole new level. Here are our suggestions for some truly knockout Thanksgiving wine pairings…
Wine Pairings for Hors d’oeuvres and First Courses
The wine you choose for kicking-off your Thanksgiving feast should have some bubbles! Champagne or sparkling wine makes an ideal pairing for hors d’oeuvres ranging from charcuterie and cheese plates, to soups and salads. Cheese almost always makes its way into the appetizers for a large party and the refreshing acidity and bubbles in sparkling wine cut right through the richness and saltiness of any assortment of cheeses, from Brie to Stilton. This Thanksgiving, we’ve selected several champagnes and domestic sparkling wines for Turkey Day pairings:
NV Henriot Brut Souverain ($50) – Recently awarded 93 points from Wine Spectator, this champagne has long been one of our favorites. A blend of 50% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs and 50% Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims, the Brut Souverain is aged in the quiet darkness of Champagne Henriot’s Gallo-Roman crayeres. These dramatic cellars, unique to the Champagne region, are carved out of chalk 60 feet underground and provide optimal aging conditions. Upon release, the Brut Souverain has been aged to perfection. Its rich, elegant style is lovely as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to variety of dishes from hors d’oeuvres straight through to a fruit-based dessert.
NV Delamotte Brut Blanc de Blancs ($55) – This vivacious champagne, made from 100% Chardonnay, has satisfying richness while being exquisitely elegant at the same time. Delamotte has been producing champagne since 1760 and is the sister house to renowned Champagne Salon. Situated in the grand cru commune Mesnil-Sur-Oger amongst the finest Champagne producing vineyards, Champagne Delamotte is a reflection of this unique, exceptional terroir. The style of this blanc de blancs is well suited to Thanksgiving festivities.
Look no further than New York State for some sensational sparkling wines that are wonderful for Thanksgiving and the holiday season. The Chateau Frank sparkling wines are the very best in quality and offer enticing value as well. For a truly American holiday like Thanksgiving, it is only fitting to show off some of our country’s finest wines…
2006 Chateau Frank Blanc de Blancs Finger Lakes ($29) – This blanc de blancs is one of our new favorite 100% Chardonnay sparkling wines from Finger Lakes producer Dr. Frank. This bubbly has a sublime voluptuous froth, great complexity, elegant flavors of honeysuckle, citrus and ginger, all undercut with refreshing, zippy acidity that make it the ideal companion for appetizers and first courses.
NV Chateau Frank Célèbre Rosé Finger Lakes ($20) – The festive color of this sparkling rosé will look stunning on your Thanksgiving Day table and in the hands of your dinner guests. Made from 100% estate grown Pinot Meunier grapes and crafted in the traditional French Crémant style, this sparkling rosé offers rich raspberry and strawberry aromas, lush cherry flavors and beautiful, delicate bubbles.
Wine Pairings for Thanksgiving Dinner
Zinfandel
As I mentioned before, I’ve always thought it was nice to feature a few American wines at Thanksgiving. Red Zinfandel is the first wine that comes to mind, especially since it has an interesting immigration story of its own. Let’s be clear, we are not talking about semi-sweet, pink-colored White Zinfandel, which has managed to disgrace the grape’s name. In stark contrast, the Zinfandels that I adore are rich, robust, red wines that sing aromas of ripe briar fruit, dark cherries, currants and spice. They are big, intense wines that pair well with a variety of foods. These wines are akin to the gravy for your Thanksgiving bird.
The history of America’s Zinfandel can be traced to roots in Croatia, where it is named Crljenak Kaštelanski, then to Italy, where it is Primitivo. The grape was brought to the Boston area in the early 19th century, by the Austrian Imperial Nursery, and named Zinfandel (a name whose origins are unclear). By the mid 19th century, the grape had made its way to sunny California, where it was a popular table grape and dried for sweet raisins. A few years later, California recognized Zin as viable for winemaking, and adopted the grape as a signature American varietal.
Zinfandel has extensive heritage in America, and an immigration story that reaches far beyond our borders. The lush fruit character and versatility of these wines make them an ideal pairing for your turkey along with all the trimmings.
The Zinfandel to pour this Thanksgiving is the 2009 Ridge Vineyards Zinfandel Geyserville ($35). Wine Advocate critic Antonio Galloni praises this impressive wine, awarding it with an attractive score of 94 points.
“The 2009 Geyserville is a gorgeous wine. It shows expressive inner perfume, sweet black cherries, menthol and minerals. This is an understated, exceptionally elegant red endowed with considerable finesse and fabulous overall balance. A round, sensual finish makes it impossible to resist a second taste…” – Antonio Galloni
Pinot Noir
Pinot’s beautiful cherry fruit aromas and flavors, combined with its characteristic earthy quality, make it just perfect for Thanksgiving menus. Harvest season ingredients such as butternut squash, sweet potatoes, brussel sprouts, mushrooms, roasted root veggies, nuts and dried berries are all accentuated by the character of Pinot Noir. Those Pinots from the West Coast (California, Oregon and Washington State) tend to be more fruit-forward, which is a great complement for turkey meat. Pinots from Burgundy are often lighter bodied with an earthy-minerally quality, quite similar to the character of the ingredients that show up on the Thanksgiving table. Any of the Pinots listed below will work marvelously with your feast…
2009 Capiaux Cellars Pinot Noir Widdoes Vineyard Russian River Valley ($35) – A delicious and sweet-fruited single-vineyard Pinot Noir with lush berry flavors, earthy undertones, full juicy body and a smooth, rich texture. Sean Capiaux, owner and winemaker of Capiaux Cellars, is a Pinot Noir expert with an impressive winemaking resume, including Jordan, Pine Ridge and Peter Michael in California and Houghton Winery in Australia.
2008 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Yamhill Cuvee Willamette Valley ($37) – With its dark fruit, black cherry, lively spice notes and impeccable structure, your bird is calling for the Yamhill Cuvee this Thanksgiving. Domaine Serene Winery and Vineyard was founded in 1989 by husband and wife team, Ken and Grace Evenstad. The Evenstad’s are advocates for sustainable farming, practicing dry farming techniques on their vineyards, meaning that they never use artificial irrigation or tap into local rivers to water their vines. Domaine Serene specializes in world class Pinot Noirs, while also producing excellent Chardonnay and Syrah.
We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again, we can get enough of 2009 Burgundy. They are simply irresistible. Don’t feel guilty about uncorking them this Thanksgiving…even if their projected prime is still a few years away!
2009 Domaine Michel Magnien Bourgogne Rouge ($25) – Rich black cherry and blackcurrant aromas and flavors are dressed up with baking spices and subtle floral aromas. You’ll hear, “Please pass the Burgundy” more than anything else with this stellar Pinot on the table.
2008 Domaine Bernard Moreau Bourgogne Rouge ($20) – This is exceptional red Burgundy for the price. Lovely red cherry aromas give way to an earthy accent of briar patch. The vibrant acidity and lengthy satisfying finish make this a superb choice for the Thanksgiving feast.
White Wine Options
Aromatic white wines work especially well with Thanksgiving dinner for several reasons. Grapes such as Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Riesling can be vinified into dry wines that have slight amounts of residual sugar. This hint of sweetness, combined with the fragrant and sometimes tropical aromas and flavors in the wine, pairs wonderfully with Thanksgiving Day spreads, which often incorporate sweet elements as well (think sweet potatoes and cranberry sauce). Meanwhile, the naturally high acidity of these types of wine is the perfect foil for rich, hearty dishes.
Chardonnay is another excellent option for Thanksgiving and a classic pairing for roasted turkey. You can go with either a white Burgundy or a new world Chardonnay with subtle oak influence.
2009 Breggo Cellars Pinot Gris Wiley Vineyard Anderson Valley ($27) Located in Northern California’s rustic, pastoral Anderson Valley, Breggo Cellars specializes in stunning wines from Alsatian varietals – Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Riesling. Breggo means “sheep” in the local dialect, homage to the area’s native population of sheep. The winery property, a 203-acre farm, was one of the first sheep ranches in Anderson Valley. This small production (only 350 cases produced), single-vineyard Pinot Gris offers delightful notes of pear, baked apple and honey, with a touch of candied lemon peel. Rich and medium-bodied, flavors of apricot preserves, melon and Meyer lemon dance on the palate.
2009 Breggo Cellars Gewurztraminer Anderson Valley ($27) – This exotic and enticing wine shows opulent aromas of orange zest, lychee, honeysuckle and rose, enhanced by notes of sweet lemon and apricot. Elegant and refreshing on the palate, bright tropical flavors mingle with zippy acidity and a long, lovely finish. Only 398 cases made.
2009 Francois Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin ($25) – Crafted in a range of styles from bone dry to sweet, François Chidaine’s Chenin Blancs share an ethereal quality and great complexity. A brilliant wine with aromas of lemon rind, honey suckle, citrus blossom and white pepper; on the palate, the tangy character is accompanied by honeyed citrus flavors, with hints of bitter almond skin. The finish lingers gracefully. A truly exceptional wine with the resounding acidity and brightness needed to emphasize the elements of Thanksgiving’s banquet.
2008 Ramey Wine Cellars Chardonnay Russian River Valley ($28) – “Bright yellow. Precise, mineral-driven aromas of pear, spicecake, iodine and wet concrete, along with a sexy floral aspect. At once tactile and fine-grained, with subtle smokiness giving depth to the flavors of Meyer lemon, minerals and candied ginger. Tightens up toward the back, finishing quite suave, with strong lift and cut to its ginger-laced orchard fruit flavors.” – Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, 91 pts
2008 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Genevrières ($85) “As it almost always is, here the nose is spicier still and more refined as well with striking complexity adding compelling interest to the floral, citrus and white fruit aromas. The rich, concentrated and classy flavors possess plenty of extract that confers a seductive texture that carries over to the impressively long and harmonious finish. This is unmistakably at another level, at least at this early juncture.” – Burghound, 92 pts
Rosé
Rosé is one of my favorite wines to pair with Thanksgiving dinner. Not only is the wine’s color cheerful and festive, the characteristic red berry flavors make it the ideal choice for Thanksgiving. Incredibly food friendly, Rosé provides the best of both worlds, combining the brisk acidity and refreshing quality of a white wine with the body and structure of a red wine, making it compatible with a range of dishes. To quote Julia Child, “Rosés can be served with anything.” The versatility of the wines below make them perfect pairings for Thanksgiving’s bounty, complimenting everything from the mashed yams to the stuffing.
Steal! 2010 Mulderbosch Vineyards Rose Stellenbosch ($12) – This is a dark cranberry-colored, robust and refreshing rosé made from Cabernet Sauvignon, showcasing complex aromas and flavors of rose petals, lime zest and wild strawberry.
2010 Prieure de Montezargues Tavel Rosé ($21) – Enticing style and finesse, showcasing raspberry and subtle peach aromas. On the palate, red berry flavors mingle with Provencal herbs and spices, resounding in the full-body, freshness and length of this gorgeous wine.
2010 Bieler Pere et Fils Sabine Rose Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence ($14) – Aromas and flavors of raspberry, cherry and wild strawberry shine, along with racy minerality and bright, food friendly acidity. Charles Bieler has been crafting his delicious Provençal rosé, Bieler Père et Fils Sabine, for the last 5 years. Named for his daughter, Sabine, who was born the same year as the wine’s first vintage, this rosé honors Charles’ father, Philippe, who introduced he and his sister to the wine business. This rosé continues the Bieler family reputation that was built over 13 years at Chateau Routas and the last three years with Three Thieves.
Autism Speaks’ Annual Golf Challenge
The Wine Cellarage is proud to participate in the Autism Speaks’ 13th Annual Celebrity Golf Challenge. We have partnered with Cape Classics, the leading US importer of South Africa’s finest wines, to feature a selection from their superb portfolio of wines on the evening of the golf challenge. Attendees will have the opportunity to taste the wines and to learn about them from our Cape Classics representative.
The Wine Cellarage is pleased to announce that for two weeks following the event, 20% of gross purchase price from any purchases of the featured wines will be donated to Autism Speaks. In addition, several of our partners will be donating fine wines for the silent auction to be held the evening of the event.
Autism Speaks’ 13th Annual Golf Challenge
Autism Speaks’ 13th Annual Celebrity Golf Challenge will be held on June 20, 2011 at the highly acclaimed Winged Foot Golf Club in Mamaroneck, NY. Among the attendees at this important event will be renowned celebrities from entertainment, sports and media. Golfers will play their rounds on Winged Foot’s demanding East and West courses and will have the chance to participate in several course contests.
After golfing has finished, the evening program will commence, including both live and silent auctions. These auctions will feature unique get-aways, signed sports memorabilia, soothing spa treatments, fashion items and fine wine. For more information please contact Elizabeth Irving at eirving@autismspeaks.org. For an event recap and to see photos from last year’s Celebrity Golf Challenge, click here.
About Autism Speaks
Founded in February 2005 by Bob and Suzanne Wright, grandparents of a child with autism, Autism Speaks has since grown to be the largest autism science and advocacy organization in the United States, devoted to funding the research of causes, prevention, treatments and a cure for autism. Autism Speaks has worked diligently to increase awareness of autism spectrum disorders and is the leading advocate for the needs of the individuals and families struggling with autism. This organization gives hope to all those affected by autism.
Featured Wines
We are thrilled to be pouring the following outstanding South African wines on the evening of the Autism Speaks’ 13th Annual Celebrity Golf Challenge and to make a contribution to this wonderful cause.
2010 Mulderbosch Vineyards Rose Stellenbosch – Mulderbosch Vineyards, situated in the Stellenbosch Hills area outside of Stellenbosch, South Africa, is widely accepted as one of the very best white wine producers in the country. Their delicious, refreshing 100% Cabernet Sauvignon rosé showcases complex aromas and flavors of rose petals, lime zest and wild strawberry. This rosé is ideal for summertime quaffing!
Glenelly Estate Wines
Located in Stellenbosch, the Glenelly estate’s heritage goes back to the 17th century. May-Eliane de Lencquesaing purchased the property in 2003, after running the famed Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande for 30 years prior. May de Lencquesaing is renowned for the wines of her Pauillac Grand Cru Classé Chateau and has upheld the same level of excellence at Glenelly.
2010 Glenelly Chardonnay The Glass Collection Stellenbosch – The Glass Collection was inspired by antique glass pieces from May de Lencquesaing’s private collection. The Glass Collection Chardonnay showcases invigorating aromas of peach, citrus and ginger. Crisp and refreshing on the palate, this lovely Chardonnay has an enduring finish.
2007 Glenelly Grand Vin de Glenelly – The estate’s signature red blend, Grand Vin de Glenelly offers elegant, complex aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, plum, spices and hints of toasted hazelnut. On the palate, this wine has a rich intensity that is harmoniously balanced by refreshing brightness and great structure.
Rustenberg
2007 Rustenberg John X Merriman Stellenbosch – A blend of five Bordeaux varietals (48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc & 3% Malbec), the John X Merriman is one of South Africa’s most legendary wines. Named for the Prime Minister of the Cape who, in the late 1800s, bought and refurbished part of the historical Rustenberg estate, this wine is rich with cherry and licorice flavors that mingle seductively with smoky tobacco and spice notes.
The Rustenberg estate has enjoyed an illustrious, albeit tumultuous, wine-making history that dates back to 1682, when the land was first recognized for grape-growing potential by a German man named Roelof Pasman. The estate flourished for the first half of the 19th century, but faced hardship when recession came and disease struck the vines. In 1892, the Cape’s Prime Minister, John X Merriman rescued the estate and helped to restore it to it’s early glory. Wine has been consistently bottled at the estate ever since.
Peter and Pamela Barlow purchased the Rustenberg estate in 1941, passing it on to their son, Simon, who has taken over operations. Although among South Africa’s oldest wine estates, Rustenberg boasts one of the Cape’s most modern cellars. Rustenberg produces long-lived, depthy wines, crafted through a marriage of technology with the art of tradition. Rustenberg wines are exemplary of the Stellenbosch region’s excellence.
Summer Wines: What to Drink All Summer Long
Cool off with crisp, refreshing summer wines!
Memorial Day has always been one of my favorite holiday weekends, the unofficial start of the summer season. The official turning of the season may be a few weeks away still, but these long, hot sunny days and warm, pleasant nights sure have me fooled, and I couldn’t be more thankful. It’s time to break out the whites in our wardrobe and to fill our glasses with light, bright, refreshing summer wines.
Here at Wine Cellarage, we’ve compiled a selection of great summer wines that we’re thrilled to share with you. These wines have been chosen for their excellent quality and great value. They are sure to keep you cool and quenched all season long without draining your summer vacation fund! There are certain wines that go hand-in-hand with the summer season, classic choices that will never go out of style, including Rosé, Prosecco, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. In addition to these classics, we’ve added some slightly more unusual wines to our summer wine collection. Among them, delicious Chenin Blancs from the Loire Valley, a Gewurztraminer from Northern California and a fantastic Methode Traditionelle sparkler from New Zealand.
Our homage to the summer season doesn’t stop with our exciting portfolio of summery wines. This year, we’ve partnered with Eating Vine, a new recipe sharing and wine pairing community, to create three different Summer Wine Packs. Each pack is an intriguing wine tasting adventure, filled with six carefully selected wines from Wine Cellarage and paired with amazing recipes from Eating Vine!
Our Summer Wine Packs are a great way to stock-up on crisp, cooling summer wines, such as Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Prosecco and even Champagne. Perfect for picnics, parties and gifts, the delicious recipe pairings will make entertaining easy, breezy and elegant all summer long.
Here’s a closer look at our summer wine collection…
There’s no better way to welcome the warm weather and to kick off the summer ahead than by opening the season’s first bottle of crisp, refreshing berry-scented rosé. Rosé is the ideal wine for summer barbecue’s and parties. Incredibly food friendly, Julia Child put it best when she said, “Rosés can be served with anything!” As you gear up for summer entertaining, don’t forget the rosé! Perfect pairings include barbecue flavors, sausage, hamburgers, and just about anything on the grill – veggies, fish, shrimp, pork and so on. And of course, fresh salads and side dishes get along incredibly well with this cool, crisp rosy wine!
One of the best rosé values out there comes to us from an award-winning South African producer, Mulderbosch Vineyards. Renowned as one of the country’s very best white wine producers, Mulderbosch makes two highly regarded reds and an excellent 100% Cabernet Sauvignon rosé. The 2010 Mulderbosch Vineyards Rosé Stellenbosch ($12) is a delicious, refreshing rosé, showcasing complex aromas and flavors of rose petals, lime zest and wild strawberry.
The 2010 Domaine Saint Ser Cotes de Provence Saint Victoire Rosé Prestige ($21) is an elegant rosé, offering lovely aromas of wild red berries, hints of watermelon and lemon zest; a perfect pairing for traditional Provencal meals like Bouillabaisse. This wine definitely has the structure to stand up to substantial dishes. (I paired this with grilled sausage and peppers last weekend and it was wonderful!) The Domaine Saint-Ser is located in the Saint Victoire sub-appellation of the Côtes de Provence and is home to a small number of elite producers.
The 2010 Bieler Père et Fils Sabine Rosé Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence ($14) is the perfect summertime quaff, showing aromas and flavors of raspberry, cherry and wild strawberry, along with racy minerality and bright acidity. You’ll want to drink this rosé every chance you get this summer. Charles Bieler has been crafting his delicious Provençal rosé for the last 5 years. Named for his daughter, Sabine, who was born the same year as the wine’s first vintage, this rosé honors Charles’ father, Philippe, who introduced he and his sister to the wine business.
Sauvignon Blanc
Sauvignon Blancs are the perfect coolers for hot summer weather. Their vibrant, zesty character, citrus aromas, herbal notes and crisp acidity make them a classic choice for summertime imbibing. Sauvignon Blanc is best consumed within a few years of its release, while youthful, fruity and refreshing. This native French varietal is the main constituent of white Bordeaux and is widely planted in the Loire Valley, most notably in the regions of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé.
This year we can’t get enough of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Craggy Range wine estate makes one of our favorite Sauvignon Blancs. Owned and operated by the Peabody family, Craggy Range specializes in exceptional single-vineyard wines that are true to their terroir. The 2009 Te Muna Road Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc ($19) is from their Te Muna Road Vineyard in Martinborough and is produced from vines that grow on stony, limestone-rich soils. Minimal cellar intervention results in an elegant Sauvignon Blanc with a delicate, soft texture and mineral undertones.
Another favorite from New Zealand is the 2010 Cloudy Bay Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc ($27). Located in the Wairau Valley of Marlborough, Cloudy Bay’s vineyards benefit from the cool, maritime climate bestowed by the South Pacific. This sustainable, environmentally conscious wine estate single-handedly pushed Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc into the spotlight. Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc delivers classic characteristics of ripe lime and grapefruit, along with a remarkable tropical medley of papaya, mango, orange blossom and gooseberry. Vibrant and refreshing, this is just what the doctor ordered on a hot summer afternoon and makes an ideal accompaniment for the fresh flavors, herbs and spices of Asian cuisine.
While we love New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, we’ll always have a taste for those from the Loire Valley. Pascal Jolivet is one of the Loire’s youngest estates producing exceptional Sauvignon Blancs. Established in 1987, Domaine Pascal Jolivet is devoted to natural winemaking and sustainable techniques. Based in Sancerre, the estate owns over 70 acres of the best vineyards in the appellations of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé. The 2009 Pascal Jolivet Sauvignon Blanc Attitude ($17) offers floral and citrus aromas, bright acidity and minerality on the palate. This delightful wine drinks like a Sancerre at half the price.
If it is true Sancerre that you’re after, the 2010 Domaine des Vieux Pruniers Sancerre Blanc ($20) is a wonderful, affordable option. Domaine des Vieux-Pruniers is located in the village of Bué, a few short miles from Sancerre. Here the grapes grow on incredibly steep, hillside vineyards renowned for their limestone-rich soils. This is a quintessential Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc – clean and pure, showing aromas of citrus fruit and blossoms, zesty lime and orange flavors and brisk minerality that lingers on the palate.
Chardonnay is the chameleon of the grape varietals, thriving in a range of climates and crafted in a variety of styles. Relatively neutral in character, Chardonnay is easily influenced by its environment and the winemaker’s techniques. For these reasons, it is one of the most popular and widely planted white wine grapes in the world. Native to France’s Burgundy, Chardonnay is the only grape variety permissible in Chablis and one of three grapes varieties used in Champagne. Outside of France, Chardonnay has flourished in the New World wine regions, growing happily in California, Chile, South Africa, Australia and beyond.
Chablis is always a refreshing choice for summertime and perfect for pairing with lighter dishes, especially seafoods. The 2009 Domaine Gilbert Picq et Ses Fils Chablis Vieilles Vignes ($25), made from fifty year old vines, is a classic Chablis with plenty of zippy minerality and pure fruit character.
The 2009 Bouchard Pere et Fils Bourgogne Blanc ($18) is a great summer Chardonnay from Burgundy – lively and fresh, offering pear and peach aromas and a smooth texture with just a touch of oak. The Bouchard Bourgogne Blanc is an ideal accompaniment for grilled seafood, shellfish and poultry dishes.
Another Chardonnay that we’ve fallen for this year is from a fantastic South African producer with a rich history, Glenelly Wine Estate. Located in Stellenbosch, the estate’s heritage goes back to the 17th century. May-Eliane de Lencquesaing purchased the property in 2003, after running the famed Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande for 30 years prior. May de Lencquesaing is renowned for the wines of her Pauillac Grand Cru Classé Chateau and has upheld the same level of excellence at Glenelly. The 2010 Glenelly Chardonnay The Glass Collection Stellenbosch ($14) showcases the exceptional quality and value coming from this estate.
Unique Summer Wines
If you love Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley as much as we do, François Chidaine’s Vouvrays are not to be missed. Crafted in a range of styles from bone dry to sweet, Chidaine’s Vouvrays share an ethereal, elegant quality and great complexity. This summer we’re sipping Chidaine’s dry styles – the 2009 Francois Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin ($25) and the 2009 Francois Chidaine Vouvray Les Argiles ($23), which are enchanting now and will age gracefully for years to come.
Breggo Cellars’ extraordinary white wines from unique varietals (Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Riesling) places this Northern Californian producer on our summertime favorites list. The 2009 Breggo Cellars Gewurztraminer Anderson Valley ($27) is exotic and enticing with opulent aromas of orange zest, lychee, honeysuckle and rose. Elegant and refreshing on the palate, bright tropical flavors mingle with zippy acidity and a long, lovely finish. Only 398 cases made!
On of the best value sparkling wines we’ve come across is the NV Quartz Reef Sparkling Methode Traditonelle ($28) from Central Otago, New Zealand. Blended from 76% Pinot Noir and 24% Chardonnay, this is a beautiful, brisk and refreshing sparkling wine that you’ll want to enjoy poolside, dockside and just about everywhere else you go this summer.
When we think of summertime sparkling wine, we think Prosecco. Both the NV Lamberti Prosecco Extra Dry ($14) and the 2009 Bisol Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Crede ($20) are amazing! When looking for the ideal wine to pop open on a hot Saturday afternoon, you can’t go wrong with either of these delightful, summery Proseccos.
2009 Burgundy – A Red & White-hot Vintage
One of Domaine Faiveley's vineyard sites in Burgundy
The buzz surrounding 2009 Burgundy began long before its release and now that these wines are available for purchase, the excitement over this truly spectacular vintage continues. While rumors that 2009 was going to be the next 2005 have been laid to rest for the most part, it is clear that both vintages share a superior quality and success that spans the entire region, from Chablis to Beaujolais. It is true that the praiseworthy 2009 vintage is the most widely successful since 2005, yet the two vintages are different and 2009 has something very enticing to offer, the drink me now element!
At this point, it would be remiss to not mention the profundity of the 2008 vintage. The difference between ’08 and ’09 is that the former will require patience and needs more time in the cellar, whereas the latter is already showing marvelously – instant gratification.
Back to ’05 versus ’09. Dry conditions in 2005 caused vine stress and led to high tannin levels. These strong tannins plus the vintage’s higher acidity are the recipe for serious structure and great aging potential. Burgundy’s 2009 growing season was marked by a hot, sun-filled August with below average rainfall. However, there had already been enough rain in May, June and July to prevent drought, giving the fruit softer tannins and lower acidity than the conditions in 2005. The resulting ’09 Burgundies are delicious, fruity and showing beautifully now. Intensely fragrant with concentrated flavors, these wines are approachable in their youth, but will no doubt age as well as their great predecessors, such as those from the 1999 vintage.
2009 has proven to be terrific vintage for both red and white wines. The reds offer rich aromatics and fruit flavors, with soft tannins and pleasant textures. These Pinot Noirs may not age quite as long as their 2005 counterparts, yet they possess the allure that draws us to red Burgundy again and again, that elusive elegance and grace. The delicate fruit aromas, floral fragrances and whisperings of exotic spices sing in this superb vintage.
The 2009 white Burgundies are equally as seductive. These rich, soft Chardonnays are nothing short of being delightful to drink now. Excellent balance, plentiful fruit and pure, persistent minerality give these wines poise and magnetism.
The youthful charm of the 2009 vintage makes these wines extremely difficult to resist. Those who have patience will surely be rewarded, but one could argue, why not start drinking the 2009s while I’m waiting for my 2005s to become more approachable?
Buying Guide: Top Producers and Wines
Christophe Cordier is a hot name in Burgundy’s winemaking scene. Located in the Maconnais region, in Fuissé, Domaine Cordier is known for premium wines made from the very best vineyard sites. Pure, focused aromatics and opulent, intense well-balanced flavors are hallmarks of Cordier’s style. His wines offer both extraordinary quality and value. Christophe is a proponent of crafting wines from hand-harvested, low yielding vines and minimal intervention in the vineyard. Fermentation is carried out in wood, giving the wines integrated flavors and incredible texture.
Both the 2009 Domaine Cordier Pouilly-Fuisse Vielles Vignes ($24) and the 2009 Domaine Cordier Vire Clesse Vieilles Vignes ($37) are excellent white Burgundies to try. At these prices, you could open these wines and enjoy them any night of the week!
Domaine Marc Morey is one of the Côte d’Or’s most renowned and sought after producers. In the 1950s, Marc Morey began making wine in the cellar of his family’s 100 year-old home, establishing his domaine in the heart of the Chassagne-Montrachet village. Today, Morey’s daughter Marie-Jo and her husband Bernard Mollard carry on the legacy that he began, making focused, terroir-driven wines. The domaine’s ownership spans nearly 25 acres of Villages, Premier and Grand Cru vineyards. The couple’s daughter, who works with them at the estate, will continue the family’s tradition of winemaking.
We are excited about everything that Domaine Marc Morey has to offer, from their 2009 Domaine Marc Morey Rully 1er Cru Rabource to their 2009 Domaine Marc Morey Chevalier Montrachet. These are white Burgundies that you won’t want to miss out on.
Domaine Joblot, located in the tiny village of Givry, in Burgundy’s Côte Chalonnaise, is a small producer crafting some very serious red Burgundies. Here, brothers Jean-Marc and Vincent Joblot work together to create powerful, fragrant wines that are truly sublime. The brothers take meticulous care in their winemaking, carefully selecting grapes from low yielding vines, destemming 100% of their fruit and using the finest oak barrels. The resulting wines are limited production and superior quality with a style resembling the best of Chambolle-Musigny. It is no wonder that Domaine Joblot has developed a cult following!
Domaine Joblot wines are superior quality at incredible price points. Available quantities of the 2009 Domaine Joblot Givry Celliers aux Moines and the 2009 Domaine Joblot Givry Clos de la Servoisine will not last long.
Domaine Joseph Drouhin is one of Burgundy’s finest and most important domains, showcasing the very best of each area within the region. From the beginning, Drouhin’s style has been elegant, balanced and harmonious, always striving for perfection in its wines. Domaine Joseph Drouhin wines possess a distinctive purity of taste. In their youth, they have fruity and alluring aromas, and as they age, these wines develop extravagant complexity. Crafted to age gracefully for up to forty years or more, the Drouhin portfolio is filled with gems from the very best Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards.
Some of Domaine Drouhin white Burgundies to try now, or to add to your cellar, include the 2009 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches and the 2009 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet. For Drouhin red Burgundy, the 2009 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Volnay and the 2009 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Vosne-Romanée are superb choices!
Henri Boillot is a 5th generation winemaker in Burgundy and has established Maison Henri Boillot as an exemplary Burgundian producer. Boillot family has been growing vines in the region since 1855, founding Domaine Jean Boillot in 1885. Henri took over the family estate in 2005, after making a name for himself with his own négociant business and his rich, powerfully styled Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. Henri’s stunning wines convey his meticulous technique and passion for natural, sustainable farming practices that maintain the soil’s authentic character.
Henri Boillot’s wines are produced from only the finest sites in the Cote d’Or. Whether a Bourgogne Blanc or Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, Boillot uses the very best grapes, resulting in wines of sublime purity and distinction.
If you’re interested in trying these extraordinary red and white Burgundies, we recommend the 2009 Maison Henri Boillot Volnay Les Chevrets, the 2009 Maison Henri Boillot Meursault Les Genevrieres and the 2009 Maison Henri Boillot Puligny Montrachet Clos de la Mouchere.
Domaine Faiveley is located at the heart of both Burgundy and the Côtes de Nuits, in Nuits-Saint-Georges. Founded by Pierre Faiveley in 1825, Domaine Faiveley has been passed down through seven generations. The family owns vineyards in some of Burgundy’s very best regions, including Gevrey-Chambertin, Pommard, Volnay, Puligny-Montrachet, Mercurey and more.
Domaine Faiveley is known for its fine, age worthy wines, the result of exceptional vineyard sites and a particularly lengthy fermentation period. Faiveley’s wines are transferred to oak barrels for maturation and stored in their vaulted cellars, which date back to the 19th century.
The 2009 Domaine Joseph Faiveley Chablis Les Clos, the 2009 Domaine Joseph Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin Clos des Issarts and the 2009 Domaine Joseph Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin Les Cazetiers are just a few of this legendary producer’s highly-rated wines.
Pairing Perfection: Chardonnay & Scallops
Pan-seared sea scallops with lemon cream, sauteed asparagus and garlic mashed potatoes.
Springtime and signs of warmer weather ahead always puts me in the mood for fresh seafood and seasonal produce, especially asparagus, peas, radishes and green onions! After months of roasted meats, hearty stews and root vegetables galore, I am ready to lighten up my cooking a bit, which brings me to the seafood counter. This week, I decided to make pan-seared sea scallops and wanted to accompany them with a couple of simple side dishes. I chose asparagus, since the gorgeous green spears are in season, and garlic mashed potatoes – although on the heavy side, they struck me as just the right addition. The outcome was beautiful and delicious, so I felt compelled to share the recipes and steps for preparing the whole meal. This way, you won’t need to go rummaging through various cookbooks or cooking websites to gather recipes for the separate components of this dish. Of course, this meal wouldn’t be complete without just the right wine pairing, Chardonnay!
Chardonnay and sea scallops are an ethereal pairing. The richness and body of Chardonnay, particularly white Burgundy as well as certain Californian expressions, is the perfect accompaniment for scallops. Chardonnays that undergo secondary fermentation, and especially those aged in oak, tend to manifest creamy, buttery qualities, which are a match made in heaven for the rich, buttery texture and flavor of sea scallops. Chardonnay’s characteristic citrus notes are like a squeeze of lemon on any seafood dish, adding brightness to this sumptuous fare. Wines that fit the bill for the following recipes include the 2008 Domaine des Heritiers du Comte Lafon Macon Chardonnay Clos de la Crochette ($31), the 2008 Ramey Wine Cellars Chardonnay Carneros ($28) and the 2009 Far Niente Winery Chardonnay Napa Valley ($46).
Another excellent wine for scallops, and any other shellfish you may be preparing, is Chablis! Made from 100% Chardonnay, this a wonderful wine to balance the richness of seared scallops. The crisp citrus flavors and palate cleansing acidity are a super pairing for this dish! Many Chablis wines have a bright mineral quality and a slight brininess on the palate, which is a great complement for this delicacy of the sea. Both the 2009 Domaine Gilbert Picq et Ses Fils Chablis Vieilles Vignes ($25) and 2008 Domaine Bessin Chablis Fourchaume ($32) are marvelous choices to pour alongside the pan-seared sea scallops with lemon cream recipe. Time to head to the market and start cooking!
Pan-seared sea scallops with lemon cream, sautéed asparagus and garlic mashed potatoes
4 servings
Active Time: 1 hr 15 min.; Cooking Time: 1 hr 15 min.
Step 1: Make the Lemon Cream (this can be made up to a day ahead and refrigerated until you’re ready to reheat):
1 lemon
1 cup dry white wine
¼ cup diced shallots
2 large cloves garlic, peeled and crushed using the side of a large kitchen knife
1 cup half & half
Salt & fresh ground pepper to taste
Using your vegetable peeler, remove half the lemon’s peel in long strips (avoid peeling the bitter white pith). Squeeze 1 tablespoon of juice from the lemon and set aside. Combine the white wine, diced shallot, crushed garlic and lemon peel in a small saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil. Boil for about 8 minutes (give or take) until the sauce has reduced to about a ½ cup. Add the half & half and continue to boil until the sauce has reduced to about ¾ cup, about 8 to 10 minutes more. Strain the sauce into a liquid measuring cup using a fine strainer; discard the solids. Whisk in the reserved lemon juice, salt & pepper and set aside until ready to reheat.
Step 2: Prep your Asparagus
1 bunch Asparagus
3 Tablespoons butter (don’t be shy)
1 large shallot, diced
Salt & fresh ground pepper to taste
Bring a medium-large half-filled pot of water to a boil. Wash & trim a ½ inch from the bottoms of the asparagus. HINT: start the potatoes while your asparagus water is boiling. Once the water is boiling, drop the asparagus in for just 1 minute, remove and immerse in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking and keep these guys crisp! Set the asparagus aside (you can drain the ice bath and keep it in the same bowl).
Step 3: Get your Garlic Mashed Potatoes going!
4 Yukon Gold or Russet potatoes
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 cup half & half
2 large cloves garlic, peeled and crushed using the side of a large kitchen knife
Grated Parmesan cheese (as much as you want!)
Salt & fresh ground pepper to taste
Peel and dice the potatoes so that all pieces are about the same size. Place in a medium saucepan, add the salt, cover the potatoes with cool water and cover the pan with a lid. Over medium-high heat, bring to a boil and then reduce heat to maintain a rolling boil. Cook for about 20 minutes, until the potatoes fall apart when pierced with a fork. Drain the potatoes once they are done cooking, keep them in the same pan and cover until you are ready to mash them.
While the potatoes are boiling, heat the half & half and crushed garlic over medium heat in your small saucepan. HINT: To keep dirty dishes from accumulating, I simply clean the same pan I used for the lemon cream with a warm damp cloth, dry it and reuse! Once the mixture is simmering, reduce heat to low to keep it warm.
Step 4: Time to Sear the Sea Scallops
16-20 large sea scallops (you’ll want 4-5 per person)
1 ½ tablespoons butter
1 ½ tablespoons olive oil
Salt & Fresh Ground Pepper
Pre-heat the oven to 400ºF. Pat the scallops dry with a paper towel and arrange on a large plate. Sprinkle salt and pepper on both sides of the scallops. Heat 1 Tbs butter and 1 Tbs olive oil in a large stainless-steel skillet over high heat. Depending on the size of your skillet, you may have to brown the scallops in two batches.
Add the scallops to the hot butter and oil and brown them on each side, about 1 to 1 ½ minutes per side. Watch them carefully to make sure they get brown, but don’t cook through. You will finish cooking them in the hot oven. If browning in batches, add the remaining ½ Tbs butter and ½ Tbs olive oil between batches. Transfer the scallops to rimmed baking sheet.
Bring it all together!
Your gourmet meal is really coming together at this point! Your asparagus is prepped and ready for sautéing, your potatoes are cooked and ready for mashing, your delicious lemon cream is already made, your scallops have been seared to a golden brown, now its time to bring it all together!
Step 5: Mash the potatoes
Mash the potatoes using a potato masher or an electric immersion blender. Add ¾ cups of the warm half & half and garlic mixture and grate some Parmesan cheese right into the pan, no need to grate ahead of time. If the potatoes need more moisture, add the remaining ¼ cup of warm half & half. Season to taste with salt and fresh ground pepper. Continue mixing and mashing until the potatoes are smooth. You can turn the heat on low under the pan to keep your mashed potatoes warm.
Hint: Reheat the Lemon Cream in the same saucepan that contained the half & half and garlic, or keep it in the measuring cup and heat it for 30 seconds in the microwave.
Step 6: Finish the Scallops
Pop the scallops into the heated oven and cook for 3-4 minutes.
Step 7: Sautée the Asparagus
Melt the 3 tablespoons of butter in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the diced shallots and sautée for about 30 seconds, then add the asparagus, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Sautée the asparagus spears for just a few minutes, making sure that the butter and shallots coat the spears evenly. Reduce the heat to low, just to keep the spears warm, and cover.
Step 8: Plate your masterpiece and enjoy!
Divide the mashed potatoes, asparagus spears and scallops onto four plates. Drizzle with the lemon cream sauce and viola! You have a created a delightful dinner that will surely impress your guests!
Enjoy each heavenly bite with a sip of the Chardonnay that you chose.
The Charm of Chablis: The Region and its Wines
Barrels in the cellar at Domaine William Fèvre.
It’s sometimes hard to believe that Chablis and Californian Chardonnay, to name just one permutation, are made from the same grape variety! Not that all of California’s Chardonnay is the same, it is certainly made in a range of styles there, just as it is in Burgundy. But, there’s something about Chablis…something, or a combination of things, that make it perhaps the world’s most pure expression of the Chardonnay grape.
Always 100% Chardonnay, Chablis is crisp, dry, refreshing and age worthy with a signature steely quality, often referred to by the French as “gunflint” (goût de Pierre à fusil). These attributes are derived from the combined affect of the cool northern climate and the ancient, fossil-rich Kimmeridgean soil in which these grapes are grown. Oak, or the lack thereof, is another influence on the taste of Chablis. Ageing in oak is not nearly as common in Chablis as it is in other parts of Burgundy or amongst the rest of the world’s Chardonnay producers. Let’s take a jaunt to this intriguing region and get familiar with the unique set of factors that create this charming wine…
Location, Location, Location!
Located in northeastern France, near the city of Auxerre, the vineyards of Chablis surround the quaint town that gives the wine region its name. The small Serein River flows through the little town and its southwest facing valley slopes provide the very best vineyard sites of the region.
Chablis is separated from the rest of Burgundy by quite a bit of distance, as well as the Moran hills. Chablis is actually closer to Champagne than it is to its next closest neighbor in Burgundy, the Côte d’Or. The sparkling wine capital of the world and this northern outpost of Burgundy share a similar semi-continental climate and are both positioned at the geographic extremity of viable wine producing regions.
Weather Permitting
The climate in northeastern France has a large sway on the quality of Chablis each year. Without the balance of maritime influence, there is a great deal of ambiguity and variation from vintage to vintage. Summers in Chablis are generally hot, winters are harsh and lengthy, and there is a constant threat of damaging spring frosts, which can strike as late as May. Farmers have developed several techniques to protect their young vine shoots from these menacing frosts. An expensive but highly effective method is the use of smudge pots, which, when lit throughout the vineyard, produce insulating smoke and act as heaters. Another approach is the use of sprinkler systems that spray the vines with water in order to create an insulating layer of ice. These methods make it possible to successfully grow vines under these climatic circumstances.
It’s in the Soil
Soil has perhaps the most important affect on the flavor of Chablis wine. The region is situated on the eastern edge of the Paris basin, the rocks of which date back 180 million years to the Upper Jurassic period. The village of Kimmeridge lies on the western edge of the basin, in Dorset, England, and gives its name to the unique soil type found in Chablis. Kimmeridgean soil, found in both Dorset and in Chablis, is composed of limestone, clay and miniature fossilized oyster shells – artifacts of the sea that once covered the area. All of the Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards of Chablis are planted on this specific soil type, giving the wines their racy minerality and steely, gunflint character. The Kimmeridgean soil reaches west and extends into the Loire Valley’s Sancerre region, which explains the similarity between Chablis and Sancerre wines, the distinctive, refreshing mineral flavor that they share.
The secondary soil type found in Chablis is Portlandian, which is also composed of limestone, but is not as rich as Kimmeridgean. Most of the vineyards classified as Chablis AC and Petit Chablis AC are planted on the Portlandian soil type and produce wines that are considered by some as less refined. There has been a great deal of debate surrounding the issue of soil-type and Chablis appellation status. Initially, during the 1930s, the Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO) deemed that only wines from Kimmeridgean soils could be classified as Chablis, and everything else was ranked as Petit Chablis. This legislation was disputed and finally overruled in the 1970s, and the INAO no longer includes soil-type in the requirements for Chablis status. Of course, not everyone agrees and there are still those who believe that soil-type should determine appellation status.
Winemaker’s Choice: To Oak or Not to Oak?
Much of what we love about Chablis is the brisk, refreshing quality and pure fruit character that we get from this cool climate Chardonnay. Oak is not as widely or liberally used by Chablis producers as it is by Chardonnay producers in other parts of the world. Thoughts on oak use are divided, just as they are on the topic of soil-type, and there are two different philosophies concerning its use in winemaking. On one side of the fence, there are those who prefer to ferment and age their wines in stainless steel in order to convey the pure flavor of the grape and its terroir. On the other side, there’s the contingent that favors the use of oak barrels, either for fermentation or for ageing, and even for both processes, in some cases. Those that continue to use oak barrels believe that it gives their wines added complexity and flavor.
Additionally, there’s the choice to use either old oak barrels or new oak barrels. Some producers opt to use a proportion of new oak barrels in their cellars, which can give the wines a distinct vanilla flavor, while others choose the more subtle influence of older oak barrels. Generally, oak use is limited to Grand Cru and Premier Cru wines, while Chablis AC and Petit Chablis AC are usually fermented and aged in stainless steel. The thought is that Grand Cru and Premier Cru wines have a more sophisticated structure, allowing them to benefit from the influence of oak without having their flavors overpowered. Interestingly, certain Chablis wines that were not given any contact with oak have been known to develop nutty flavors with age, a characteristic associated with oak ageing.
Grand Cru Vineyards
There are seven vineyard sites that are classified as Grand Cru and together, make up the single Chablis Grand Cru appellation. It is important to note that the seven vineyards are not given individual appellation status, as is the case with the Grand Cru vineyards of the Côte d’Or. All of these sites lie adjacent to one another along a single slope of the Serein River’s right bank. Overlooking the town of Chablis, the vineyards are southwest facing, benefiting from maximum sun exposure and, as we learned before, all seven Grand Cru sites are planted on limestone-rich Kimmeridgean clay soils. The Grand Cru vineyards are, from west to east, Bougros, Les Preuses, Vaudésir, Grenouilles, Valmur, Les Clos and Les Blanchots.
The wines produced from each vineyard exhibit their own distinctive character and truly demonstrate the affect of subtle differences in terroir. Take for example two vineyards that are right next to each other, Bougros and Les Preuses – Bougros tends toward more restrained wines, with slightly less pronounced fruit flavors, while the wines of Les Preuses are more full-bodied and fruit-forward.
Although there are only seven official Grand Cru vineyards, the small vineyard of La Moutonne, wedged between Les Preuses and Vaudésir, has “unofficial” Grand Cru status. This vineyard, a monopole solely owned by Domaine Long-Depaquit, appears by itself on wine labels, without reference to Les Preuses or Vaudésir.
Premier Cru Vineyards
There are forty Premier Cru vineyards in Chablis, although many of them do not often appear on wine labels. Instead, there are seventeen prominent vineyard names, under which the more obscure vineyards are grouped. The INAO allows the wines of a smaller vineyard to use the name of a more renowned neighboring Premier Cru vineyard. Some wines are still bottled under the smaller vineyard name, but more often than not, they will borrow the more famous name. The most renowned Premier Cru vineyards are Fourchaume, Montée de Tonnerre and Vaillons.
Fourchaume may be the most prominent of all and is located adjacent to the Les Preuses Grand Cru vineyard. Montée de Tonnerre lies near the Les Blanchot Grand Cru vineyard, on the eastern end of the Grand Cru slope, but is on the other side of the Vallée de Brechain. Vaillons is located on the left bank of the Serein River and is the largest of the Premier Crus.
Shopping for Chablis
After reading all about Chablis, are you ready to drink a glass or what? As we’ve learned, Chablis is made is various styles, depending on the producer, and has different characteristics, depending on the vineyard and soil that the grapes come from. Grand Cru and Premier Cru Chablis wines are more likely to be aged in oak, which can impart nut, toast and vanilla notes, but these are usually subtle enough so as to not overwhelm the wine. More importantly, the Grand Cru and Premier Cru wines get better with age, developing incredible complexity and smoky aromas along with their refreshing, racy acidity and signature minerality.
Domaine William Fèvre is a noteworthy producer of both Grands Crus and Premiers Crus Chablis. If looking for an excellent Grand Cru Chablis that already has some age, one could try the 2002 Domaine William Fèvre Bougros Côte Bouguerots ($71). The 2006 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Vaillons ($36) is a delightful dry, minerally wine from the Premier Cru Vaillons vineyard and can either be enjoyed now or aged even longer. Also from this noteworthy producer, the 2009 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Les Clos ($89) – a young Grand Cru that will certainly need some time in the cellar to reach its full potential.
Domaine Daniel Dampt and Domaine Francois Raveneau are others among the renowned Chablisienne producers of Grand Cru and Premier Cru wines. The 2004 Domaine Daniel Dampt Chablis Côte de Léchet ($41) and the 2005 Domaine Francois Raveneau Chablis Forêt ($89) are two prime samplings from Premier Cru vineyards, the latter from the smaller, by no means less superior, Forêt vineyard. Wines from Forêt are often labeled as Montmains, since it is a better-known vineyard, but not in this case.
Wines from the basic Chablis appellation are bright, dry and can have delicate flinty-mineral notes and some of the nuanced flavors of the higher ranked Chablis wines. Chablis AC is an excellent place to find great values from the region, such as the 2009 Domaine Gilbert Picq et Ses Fils Chablis Vieilles Vignes ($25). It is also a wonderful place to start if you are just beginning your exploration of Chablis!
Getting Acquainted with Burgundy
Bottles of Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru Burgundy
Burgundy is one of the world’s most intriguing wine regions, best known for its exceptional Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays produced in an awe-inspiring array of styles. With its multitude of appellations and vineyards, each having a unique terrain, Burgundy offers an unsurpassed study in the highly sensitive nature of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay to various growing conditions. While Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the most renowned of Burgundy’s grape varietals, the red Gamay and white Aligoté are also among the main grapes grown in the region. Gamay is the star of the Beaujolais region, flourishing in the granite soils there, and Aligoté is mainly used in sparkling wines.
Deciphering Burgundy’s classification system can be confusing, to say the least. When examining a wine list or an individual wine label, different vineyard names can appear next to a single village name, which is further complicated (thanks to Napoleonic Law) by the various vineyards having multiple owners, each producing their own wines for better or worse. Understanding Burgundy’s nomenclature and the characteristic styles of each region will give you an upper hand when shopping for your next bottle. So, how does the system work and what should we look for on the label?
First, let’s get acquainted with the five regions of Burgundy. From north to south, these are: Chablis, Côte d’Or (Côte de Nuits & Côte de Beaune), Côte Chalonnaise, Mâconnais and Beaujolais. Burgundy’s classification system is quite unique and is significantly different than that of Bordeaux. In Bordeaux, individual producers (château), are awarded Premier Cru or Grand Cru classifications, while in Burgundy, these classifications are given to individual vineyard sites, which are then elevated to Appellation Contrôlée (AC) status. Thus, Bordeaux has about 60 appellations compared to Burgundy’s 600 plus!
Regional Appellations
In ascending order, Burgundy’s hierarchy begins with Regional Appellation Contrôlées (ACs), which always include the word Bourgogne in their name. There are generic Bourgognes, which can come from anywhere in Burgundy, such as Bourgogne Rouge and Bourgogne Blanc, as well as more exclusive regional ACs; i.e. Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune.
District Appellations
The next step up the ladder are District ACs, which exclude the word Bourgogne in their title and are named according to the wine regions of Burgundy. District ACs include Chablis, Mâcon, Côte de Chalonnaise, and so on.
Village (a.k.a. Commune) Appellations
Next up, we have Village Appellations, which are named after specific villages and divided into two groups: non-Premier Cru villages and the more elite Premier Cru villages. The name of the village (commune) will always appear on the label and will sometimes be accompanied by a specific vineyard, if the wine comes from only one vineyard site. However, if the vineyard is not Premier Cru, its name will appear in smaller print on the label.
Premier Cru Appellations
Premier Crus are esteemed single-vineyard appellations, which explains the plethora of ACs in Burgundy. To further complicate things, each vineyard (called climat in Burgundy) can have multiple owners, each producing their own wine. A vineyard under sole-ownership is distinguished as monopole on the wine label. Premier Cru status will almost always appear in print on the label, but may sometimes be designated by the village and vineyard name sharing the same font size.
Grand Cru Appellations
Finally, at the very top, we have the most prestigious Burgundies of all, those distinguished as Grand Cru appellations. There are a total of 33 Grand Crus, one in Chablis, and the remaining 32 in Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, along the Côte d’Or. Labels of Grand Cru wines simply state the vineyard name, since these names are so well recognized in the region. For example, Chambertin and Montrachet are Grand Cru vineyards, located in Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune respectively.
When considering the wines from the Côte d’Or, we encounter a number of hyphenated names, such as Gevrey-Chambertin and Puligny-Montrachet. The reason for this? In the early 1900s, some of the villages along the Côte d’Or decided to hyphenate their village name to their very best vineyard, in order to increase sales of their village wines. In the case of Puligny-Montrachet, Puligny is the village, and Montrachet is the Grand Cru vineyard.
Wine Styles by Region
Chablis
Chablis, always 100% Chardonnay, is arguably the most elegant expression of this grape in the world. This northern-most region in Burgundy, located in the valley of the Serein River, has a challenging, cool climate, which is reflected in its wines. The soils of the region are predominantly limestone, with the best wines, the Grand Cru and Premier Crus coming specifically from Kimmeridgian limestone. Characteristically, the wines of the region are lighter bodied, with citrus and green fruit flavors, high acidity, and refreshing minerality.
Côte d’Or
The “Golden Slopes” are so named because the vineyard leaves turn a brilliant gold color at the end of the growing season, after harvest. To the north, the Côte de Nuits produces full-bodied, age-worthy, Pinot Noirs that are second to none. These Pinots offer aromas and flavors of cherry, raspberry and strawberry that evolve into savory, gamey characteristics. To the south, the Côte de Beaune produces some of the world’s most complex, premium Chardonnays as well as lighter styled Pinot Noirs. These Chardonnays are fermented and aged in new French oak and can age beautifully for a decade. They have a fuller body, intriguing texture and unrivaled complexity.
Côte Chalonnaise
The Côte Chalonnaise produces Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that are similar to those of the Côte d’Or, but at lower price points.
Mâcon
Farther south in the Mâcon region, Chardonnay is King. Thriving in the warmer climate and limestone soils, these wines are characteristically rich and full-bodied with ripe citrus flavors. The most distinguished wine of the region is Poully-Fuissé, offering aromas and flavors of peach and melon, and savory qualities from barrel aging in new French oak.
Beaujolais
Beaujolais is home to the Gamay grape, which produces fruity red wines that taste of cherry and raspberry. A special winemaking technique called carbonic maceration can impart unique aromas of bananas, bubblegum and sweet spice. Beaujolais often gets dismissed as a less than serious wine region that produces insipid Beaujolais Nouveau, the youthful wine released each year on the third Thursday of November. However, there are those of us who appreciate the fun, fruity character of Beaujolais Nouveau, and find the presence of banana aromas in wine to be more interesting than off-putting. Wines labeled as Beaujolais-Villages AC come from the villages in the north of the region and make up a quarter of production. The Beaujolais Crus are the most distinct, highest quality wines of the region. There are ten cru villages in total: Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin à Vent, Chiroubles, Fleurie, Morgan, Régnié, Côte de Brouilly and Brouilly.
Terroir and Burgundy’s Classification System
Terroir is a French term that encompasses the individual soil, landscape and climate of a particular growing region. This concept is the backbone of Burgundy’s classification system. The Cistercian monks, who began acquiring vineyards in the region during the 11th century, were the first to explore, observe and record the affects of terroir on grape growing. Discovering the influence of individual growing sites led the Cistercians to begin recognizing the various Crus. Consequently, the Burgundian classification system, with its scores of appellations, was born.
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The Magic of Dujac
Domaine Dujac
My first meeting with Jeremy Seysses occurred as he dined with Robert Bohr, formerly the wine director of Cru. Robert had selected a bottle of Villa Bucci Verdicchio Riserva 2005, and a magnum of the Conti Constanti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1997. Four worries immediately came to mind.
1. Crap, I hope both of these bottles are still in stock.
2. Crap, what kind of glass would they prefer for the verdicchio?
3. Crap, do we have perfectly polished glassware?
4. Who the hell is Dujac and why are the wines so expensive?
A year later, after meeting and tasting with Jeremy, only three of these worries still remain, and the fourth has been answered to great satisfaction. Simply put, Dujac is one of the finest domaines in not just Burgundy, but in the world.
The best of Burgundy often consists of small, family-run operations, and Domaine Dujac is no different. Jeremy’s father, Jacques, first purchased Domaine Marcel Graillet in Morey-St.-Denis in 1967. Slowly but sure over the last 40 years, their holdings have increased within the Côtes-de-Nuits, encompassing the other important villages of Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, and Vosne-Romanée. A small négociant company, Dujac Fils et Père, has also been established, and these wines demonstrate the same, exacting standards and nuances as the Domaine wines. Above all else, the wines of Dujac are all about the most natural and unobtrusive expression of grape and terroir in a bottle.
Before the Burgundies were poured, we tasted two wines of a relatively new project of the family, Domaine de Triennes, in Southwest France. Even with my enormous handicap of having virtually no blind-tasting skills, both the white and red Vin de Pays du Var were immediately recognizable as viognier and a cabernet-syrah blend. The viognier was light, fragrant, with none of the heaviness or lack of acidity that often mars these wines as being tiring to drink. The cabernet and syrah, along with a dollop of merlot, each contributed its intrinsic, dominant qualities of cassis and black pepper, respectively, and the result was a harmonious blend of which most Napa vintners would be jealous. The oak from older Dujac Burgundy barrels played a minor role, gently buttressing the fruit with a touch of smoke and roundness.
Of course, it was still the Burgundies that stole the show. Of the five from the 2008 vintage, two stood out unanimously: the Puligny-Montrachet from the négociant arm, and the Chambolle-Musigny.
The Puligny was exactly as it should be, a pure, unadulterated version of young chardonnay with multiple dimensions. A mix of citrus, stone and tropical fruit aromas weaved in and out, all with a refreshing backbone of acidity and minerals. Not knowing where the grapes were sourced, my best guess is that a significant amount came from Premier Cru vineyards. While it does not quite reach the level of Grand Cru, it certainly drinks as well as many Les Pucelles or Les Demoiselles, and betters many Premier Crus. The only catch? This wine is made in such tiny quantities that only 209 cases were produced. And the pricing is half as it should be!
The Chambolle-Musigny, which to my surprise was tasted after the Gevrey-Chambertin, was the star of the reds. Clive Coates sums up the village poetically: “Delicate, yes; but feeble, no.” This eloquent description fits Dujac to a tee. The wine is silky, seductive, with sweet, soft tannins that invite you to take another sip. Ripe wild strawberries and red cherries dominated the bouquet. While the Gevrey and the Morey were both very good quality for the village-level, they were simply outclassed by the Chambolle. The finest village-level Chambolle I had tasted up to this point had been the Cathiard Clos de l’Orme; the Dujac is right there as well.
The most insightful part of the hour spent with Jeremy, however, was not tasting the wines themselves. Unlike many other winemakers, proprietors, importers or distributors, Jeremy simply told a few brief stories, interspersed with a couple of sarcastic yet observant remarks about the wine industry in general. Aside from providing some technical information, he saw no reason to boast of his wines, nor recite ratings from popular publications. Is it a mere coincidence, then, that both the business and wine making philosophy is one and the same, that is, to let the wines speak for themselves?