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Blog
Thanksgiving Wines: Pairings for the Big Feast
White wine on the Thanksgiving table
There has been a distinct chill in the air and the east coast has already seen a significant snowstorm. There’s no denying that winter, and the holidays, are fast approaching. While I’m not necessarily looking forward to the biting cold days ahead, I’m eagerly awaiting the holiday season! The next two months promise to be filled with plenty of feasting, celebration and a steady flow of delicious wine…merriment that will stave off winter’s hold for a while, at least.
With Thanksgiving just a few weeks away, family chefs across the nation have already begun planning their menus and experimenting with new recipes. The beauty of Thanksgiving, the reason that it tops my list of favorite holidays, is that it is a celebration of food and family. Not only does the holiday give gourmands more reason than ever to run wild in the kitchen, it is a welcome opportunity for oenophiles to show their stuff too. The cooks are already ahead of the game. It’s time for us wine lovers to plan our attack and seek out the very best wine pairings for the grandest of feasts. So wine lovers, what will you bring to the Thanksgiving table this year?
Pairing wines with Thanksgiving dinner is easier than one might think. The meal itself features abundant flavorful side dishes, all with a gorgeous, simply roasted turkey as the centerpiece. One could argue that just about any wine can work with Thanksgiving, due to the vastness of the meal and diversity of flavors within, but there are certain wines that elevate this feast, bringing it to a whole new level. Here are our suggestions for some truly knockout Thanksgiving wine pairings…
Wine Pairings for Hors d’oeuvres and First Courses
The wine you choose for kicking-off your Thanksgiving feast should have some bubbles! Champagne or sparkling wine makes an ideal pairing for hors d’oeuvres ranging from charcuterie and cheese plates, to soups and salads. Cheese almost always makes its way into the appetizers for a large party and the refreshing acidity and bubbles in sparkling wine cut right through the richness and saltiness of any assortment of cheeses, from Brie to Stilton. This Thanksgiving, we’ve selected several champagnes and domestic sparkling wines for Turkey Day pairings:
NV Henriot Brut Souverain ($50) – Recently awarded 93 points from Wine Spectator, this champagne has long been one of our favorites. A blend of 50% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs and 50% Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims, the Brut Souverain is aged in the quiet darkness of Champagne Henriot’s Gallo-Roman crayeres. These dramatic cellars, unique to the Champagne region, are carved out of chalk 60 feet underground and provide optimal aging conditions. Upon release, the Brut Souverain has been aged to perfection. Its rich, elegant style is lovely as an aperitif or as an accompaniment to variety of dishes from hors d’oeuvres straight through to a fruit-based dessert.
NV Delamotte Brut Blanc de Blancs ($55) – This vivacious champagne, made from 100% Chardonnay, has satisfying richness while being exquisitely elegant at the same time. Delamotte has been producing champagne since 1760 and is the sister house to renowned Champagne Salon. Situated in the grand cru commune Mesnil-Sur-Oger amongst the finest Champagne producing vineyards, Champagne Delamotte is a reflection of this unique, exceptional terroir. The style of this blanc de blancs is well suited to Thanksgiving festivities.
Look no further than New York State for some sensational sparkling wines that are wonderful for Thanksgiving and the holiday season. The Chateau Frank sparkling wines are the very best in quality and offer enticing value as well. For a truly American holiday like Thanksgiving, it is only fitting to show off some of our country’s finest wines…
2006 Chateau Frank Blanc de Blancs Finger Lakes ($29) – This blanc de blancs is one of our new favorite 100% Chardonnay sparkling wines from Finger Lakes producer Dr. Frank. This bubbly has a sublime voluptuous froth, great complexity, elegant flavors of honeysuckle, citrus and ginger, all undercut with refreshing, zippy acidity that make it the ideal companion for appetizers and first courses.
NV Chateau Frank Célèbre Rosé Finger Lakes ($20) – The festive color of this sparkling rosé will look stunning on your Thanksgiving Day table and in the hands of your dinner guests. Made from 100% estate grown Pinot Meunier grapes and crafted in the traditional French Crémant style, this sparkling rosé offers rich raspberry and strawberry aromas, lush cherry flavors and beautiful, delicate bubbles.
Wine Pairings for Thanksgiving Dinner
Zinfandel
As I mentioned before, I’ve always thought it was nice to feature a few American wines at Thanksgiving. Red Zinfandel is the first wine that comes to mind, especially since it has an interesting immigration story of its own. Let’s be clear, we are not talking about semi-sweet, pink-colored White Zinfandel, which has managed to disgrace the grape’s name. In stark contrast, the Zinfandels that I adore are rich, robust, red wines that sing aromas of ripe briar fruit, dark cherries, currants and spice. They are big, intense wines that pair well with a variety of foods. These wines are akin to the gravy for your Thanksgiving bird.
The history of America’s Zinfandel can be traced to roots in Croatia, where it is named Crljenak Kaštelanski, then to Italy, where it is Primitivo. The grape was brought to the Boston area in the early 19th century, by the Austrian Imperial Nursery, and named Zinfandel (a name whose origins are unclear). By the mid 19th century, the grape had made its way to sunny California, where it was a popular table grape and dried for sweet raisins. A few years later, California recognized Zin as viable for winemaking, and adopted the grape as a signature American varietal.
Zinfandel has extensive heritage in America, and an immigration story that reaches far beyond our borders. The lush fruit character and versatility of these wines make them an ideal pairing for your turkey along with all the trimmings.
The Zinfandel to pour this Thanksgiving is the 2009 Ridge Vineyards Zinfandel Geyserville ($35). Wine Advocate critic Antonio Galloni praises this impressive wine, awarding it with an attractive score of 94 points.
“The 2009 Geyserville is a gorgeous wine. It shows expressive inner perfume, sweet black cherries, menthol and minerals. This is an understated, exceptionally elegant red endowed with considerable finesse and fabulous overall balance. A round, sensual finish makes it impossible to resist a second taste…” – Antonio Galloni
Pinot Noir
Pinot’s beautiful cherry fruit aromas and flavors, combined with its characteristic earthy quality, make it just perfect for Thanksgiving menus. Harvest season ingredients such as butternut squash, sweet potatoes, brussel sprouts, mushrooms, roasted root veggies, nuts and dried berries are all accentuated by the character of Pinot Noir. Those Pinots from the West Coast (California, Oregon and Washington State) tend to be more fruit-forward, which is a great complement for turkey meat. Pinots from Burgundy are often lighter bodied with an earthy-minerally quality, quite similar to the character of the ingredients that show up on the Thanksgiving table. Any of the Pinots listed below will work marvelously with your feast…
2009 Capiaux Cellars Pinot Noir Widdoes Vineyard Russian River Valley ($35) – A delicious and sweet-fruited single-vineyard Pinot Noir with lush berry flavors, earthy undertones, full juicy body and a smooth, rich texture. Sean Capiaux, owner and winemaker of Capiaux Cellars, is a Pinot Noir expert with an impressive winemaking resume, including Jordan, Pine Ridge and Peter Michael in California and Houghton Winery in Australia.
2008 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Yamhill Cuvee Willamette Valley ($37) – With its dark fruit, black cherry, lively spice notes and impeccable structure, your bird is calling for the Yamhill Cuvee this Thanksgiving. Domaine Serene Winery and Vineyard was founded in 1989 by husband and wife team, Ken and Grace Evenstad. The Evenstad’s are advocates for sustainable farming, practicing dry farming techniques on their vineyards, meaning that they never use artificial irrigation or tap into local rivers to water their vines. Domaine Serene specializes in world class Pinot Noirs, while also producing excellent Chardonnay and Syrah.
We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again, we can get enough of 2009 Burgundy. They are simply irresistible. Don’t feel guilty about uncorking them this Thanksgiving…even if their projected prime is still a few years away!
2009 Domaine Michel Magnien Bourgogne Rouge ($25) – Rich black cherry and blackcurrant aromas and flavors are dressed up with baking spices and subtle floral aromas. You’ll hear, “Please pass the Burgundy” more than anything else with this stellar Pinot on the table.
2008 Domaine Bernard Moreau Bourgogne Rouge ($20) – This is exceptional red Burgundy for the price. Lovely red cherry aromas give way to an earthy accent of briar patch. The vibrant acidity and lengthy satisfying finish make this a superb choice for the Thanksgiving feast.
White Wine Options
Aromatic white wines work especially well with Thanksgiving dinner for several reasons. Grapes such as Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Riesling can be vinified into dry wines that have slight amounts of residual sugar. This hint of sweetness, combined with the fragrant and sometimes tropical aromas and flavors in the wine, pairs wonderfully with Thanksgiving Day spreads, which often incorporate sweet elements as well (think sweet potatoes and cranberry sauce). Meanwhile, the naturally high acidity of these types of wine is the perfect foil for rich, hearty dishes.
Chardonnay is another excellent option for Thanksgiving and a classic pairing for roasted turkey. You can go with either a white Burgundy or a new world Chardonnay with subtle oak influence.
2009 Breggo Cellars Pinot Gris Wiley Vineyard Anderson Valley ($27) Located in Northern California’s rustic, pastoral Anderson Valley, Breggo Cellars specializes in stunning wines from Alsatian varietals – Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer and Riesling. Breggo means “sheep” in the local dialect, homage to the area’s native population of sheep. The winery property, a 203-acre farm, was one of the first sheep ranches in Anderson Valley. This small production (only 350 cases produced), single-vineyard Pinot Gris offers delightful notes of pear, baked apple and honey, with a touch of candied lemon peel. Rich and medium-bodied, flavors of apricot preserves, melon and Meyer lemon dance on the palate.
2009 Breggo Cellars Gewurztraminer Anderson Valley ($27) – This exotic and enticing wine shows opulent aromas of orange zest, lychee, honeysuckle and rose, enhanced by notes of sweet lemon and apricot. Elegant and refreshing on the palate, bright tropical flavors mingle with zippy acidity and a long, lovely finish. Only 398 cases made.
2009 Francois Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin ($25) – Crafted in a range of styles from bone dry to sweet, François Chidaine’s Chenin Blancs share an ethereal quality and great complexity. A brilliant wine with aromas of lemon rind, honey suckle, citrus blossom and white pepper; on the palate, the tangy character is accompanied by honeyed citrus flavors, with hints of bitter almond skin. The finish lingers gracefully. A truly exceptional wine with the resounding acidity and brightness needed to emphasize the elements of Thanksgiving’s banquet.
2008 Ramey Wine Cellars Chardonnay Russian River Valley ($28) – “Bright yellow. Precise, mineral-driven aromas of pear, spicecake, iodine and wet concrete, along with a sexy floral aspect. At once tactile and fine-grained, with subtle smokiness giving depth to the flavors of Meyer lemon, minerals and candied ginger. Tightens up toward the back, finishing quite suave, with strong lift and cut to its ginger-laced orchard fruit flavors.” – Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, 91 pts
2008 Domaine Bouchard Père et Fils Meursault Genevrières ($85) “As it almost always is, here the nose is spicier still and more refined as well with striking complexity adding compelling interest to the floral, citrus and white fruit aromas. The rich, concentrated and classy flavors possess plenty of extract that confers a seductive texture that carries over to the impressively long and harmonious finish. This is unmistakably at another level, at least at this early juncture.” – Burghound, 92 pts
Rosé
Rosé is one of my favorite wines to pair with Thanksgiving dinner. Not only is the wine’s color cheerful and festive, the characteristic red berry flavors make it the ideal choice for Thanksgiving. Incredibly food friendly, Rosé provides the best of both worlds, combining the brisk acidity and refreshing quality of a white wine with the body and structure of a red wine, making it compatible with a range of dishes. To quote Julia Child, “Rosés can be served with anything.” The versatility of the wines below make them perfect pairings for Thanksgiving’s bounty, complimenting everything from the mashed yams to the stuffing.
Steal! 2010 Mulderbosch Vineyards Rose Stellenbosch ($12) – This is a dark cranberry-colored, robust and refreshing rosé made from Cabernet Sauvignon, showcasing complex aromas and flavors of rose petals, lime zest and wild strawberry.
2010 Prieure de Montezargues Tavel Rosé ($21) – Enticing style and finesse, showcasing raspberry and subtle peach aromas. On the palate, red berry flavors mingle with Provencal herbs and spices, resounding in the full-body, freshness and length of this gorgeous wine.
2010 Bieler Pere et Fils Sabine Rose Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence ($14) – Aromas and flavors of raspberry, cherry and wild strawberry shine, along with racy minerality and bright, food friendly acidity. Charles Bieler has been crafting his delicious Provençal rosé, Bieler Père et Fils Sabine, for the last 5 years. Named for his daughter, Sabine, who was born the same year as the wine’s first vintage, this rosé honors Charles’ father, Philippe, who introduced he and his sister to the wine business. This rosé continues the Bieler family reputation that was built over 13 years at Chateau Routas and the last three years with Three Thieves.
Napa: A Prodigious Region Crowned with Cabernet
Bottles of Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
For many of us California wine lovers, Napa Valley represents the pinnacle of quality wine production in the United States. Still a baby compared to Europe’s old world regions, Napa’s winemaking history began in the mid-nineteenth century. Despite the ups and downs in its relatively short history, the valley has risen to world renown and produces many wines of indisputable quality, especially Cabernets and Cab-Merlot blends that rival those of Bordeaux. As far as some Old World wine fanatics are concerned, California and Napa Valley may never shake a reputation for producing sell-out styled “Fruit Bombs”, but for long-time devotees and those of us more recently convinced, there is something truly special about the region’s terroir and the wines that are crafted from it.
Napa Valley lies north of San Francisco and is bordered by the Mayacamus Mountain Range to its west and north and the Vaca Mountains on its eastern side. To the north, rises Mount St Helena, part of the Mayacamas Range. Mount St Helena’s East Peak is the highest point in Napa County and one of the mountain’s five volcano derived sub-peaks. Charles Krug, one of Napa’s original pioneering winemakers, founded his winery at the base of Mount St. Helena in the early 1860s. This winery and land was eventually purchased by the Mondavi family 80 years later and was where Robert Mondavi started his winemaking career.
The vineyards of Napa Valley enjoy a Mediterranean climate and benefit from its proximity to the ocean. Ideally positioned near enough to the Pacific, yet far enough inland, the vineyards are cooled by the infamous fog that rolls in off the San Francisco Bay, but are not enveloped by it. The Valley gets hot in the summer and maintains moderate temperatures throughout the winter and the grapevines bask in the temperate climate. The northern end of the Valley is sheltered by the coastal mountain ranges and maintains warmer temperatures than the southern end, which is more exposed and closer to the San Pablo Bay. Thus, there are multiple microclimates within Napa.
Not only do the northern and southern parts of the valley differ in climate, they also have different geological characteristics. In the northern end, the soil is largely composed of volcanic earth, lava and ash. The region’s volcanic history is evidenced by the hills and volcanic soils found in the middle valley as well, in the area surrounding Yountville. The soils of the southern end have been formed by the ebb and flow of the San Pablo Bay over time, making this area rich in sediment.
From the region’s early years in the mid-nineteenth century to the present time, the Valley has undergone its fair share of hardship, including a devastating outbreak of phylloxera and the setbacks caused by Prohibition. Yet during this same relatively brief time period, Napa managed to emerge as a world class wine region with a litany of iconic producers. Perhaps the most noteworthy moment in Napa’s recent history was the “Judgment of Paris” tasting competition in 1976, the infamous blind tasting that really placed the region in the forefront of the world wine stage. The tasting put Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons and Chardonnays up against prestigious red Bordeaux and white Burgundies. The judges ranked California wines above those of France in both categories. The top scoring wines were the 1973 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars S.L.V. Cabernet Sauvignon, besting First Growth Bordeaux including Mouton-Rothschild and Haut-Brion, and the 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay topped the contestants from Burgundy. These remarkable results proved that Napa Valley was a superior wine region with great potential.
When it comes to Napa, one thing is clear, Cabernet Sauvignon reigns supreme. Cabernet crafted by the Valley’s most talented and dedicated winemakers is some of the most opulent, majestic and seductive wine to be had. If you’ve ever doubted Napa’s distinctive terroirs and the variety of styles that come from this one appellation, try tasting a Cabernet from Howell Mountain next to one from a lower elevation vineyard with gravel or volcanic soils. Dunn Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet showcases mountain fruit at its finest, while Far Niente produces some extraordinary Cabernet from its lower elevation, flat and gravelly Oakville vineyards.
The Who’s Who of Modern Day Napa
When I think through the canon of Napa Valley producers and consider the major players today, several groups tend to form in my mind. The pioneering producers of the late 19th Century, some of which are still making great wine today, are the first in my retrospective and include Far Niente, Beaulieu Vineyard, Chateau Montelena and Mayacamas Vineyards. Next are legendary producers that emerged from the mid-20th Century onward, major iconic names such as Robert Mondavi, Dominus Estate, Opus One, Shafer and Pahlmeyer. Then there are the smaller artisanal producers that appeared during this time, including Flora Springs, Caymus Vineyards, Diamond Creek, Heitz Wine Cellars and Dunn Vineyards.
A new generation of artisanal winemakers and producers has emerged in more recent years, crafting some of Napa’s purest expressions of the unique terroirs within the appellation. Our favorites in this category include Altamura Vineyards and Winery, Ramey Wine Cellars and Blackbird Vineyards.
Below your will find more thorough introductions to some of the incredible producers from our Napa Valley portfolio…
Far Niente
The Italian phrase Far Niente means “without a care” and conjures an idealistic time and place, a lazy summer afternoon spent sipping wine on the patio. Far Niente Wine Estate, the namesake of this whimsical phrase, indeed dates back to a peaceful time in our country’s history. Founded by John Benson in 1885, the winery was built in Napa Valley’s western Oakville. Benson, one of the “forty-niners” who came to California with the Gold Rush in 1849, was the uncle of Winslow Homer, the American Impressionist painter. The winery flourished until its doors were closed in 1919 by Prohibition. The property lay deserted until 1979, when Gil Nickel purchased the land and vineyard and began restorations.
Today, the winemaking tradition that began over a century ago is continued through the joint ownership of Nickel’s family members and close friends. Far Niente produces premium Cabernet Sauvignons and Chardonnays that are celebrated for their age-worthy character. The Estate owns vineyards in some of the very best areas of Napa Valley including the Martin Stelling Vineyard and John C. Sullenger Vineyard in Oakville, as well as Barrow Lane Vineyard, John’s Creek Vineyard and Carpenter’s Vineyard in Coombsville. Far Niente has several sister wineries, including Dolce and Nickel & Nickel in Napa Valley, and EnRoute in the Russian River Valley. View all available Far Niente wines.
Dunn Vineyards
In 1978, Randy and Lori Dunn purchased their initial 14 acres of property on Napa Valley’s Howell Mountain. A year later, in 1979, the Dunn’s harvested their first crop of Cabernet Sauvignon, thus establishing the winery. Randy graduated from UC Davis in 1975 and had been making wine at Caymus Vineyards before leaving to start his own label. Now the Dunn’s children, son Michael and daughter Kristina, are assisting with the family business and both share their father’s passion for winemaking.
Randy Dunn set out to make great, age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignon in the old world style of Bordeaux. He has remained faithful to this founding philosophy and, year after year, continues to produce spectacular Cabernets that are expressive of the Howell Mountain growing region.
Each year, Dunn Vineyards produces two red wine labels, Howell Mountain and Napa Valley, each 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Napa Valley bottling includes a portion of grapes from the Napa Valley floor (a maximum of 15%) with the rest harvested from their Howell Mountain vineyards. The Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon has softer tannins and is ready to drink earlier on, although it can still age beautifully for 15 or more years. The Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon is a bigger style wine, showing bolder fruit and tannins. These wines can age for decades before reaching their peak! View all available Dunn Vineyards Cabernet.
Ramey Wine Cellars
Founded by David and Carla Ramey, Ramey Wine Cellars is located in the charming town of Healdsburg, in the heart of Sonoma County. David Ramey is one of California’s leading winemakers, recognized for contributing innovative techniques to New World winemaking, while staying true to Old World traditions. David has a graduate degree in winemaking from the University of California at Davis and began his career working at the legendary Chateau Pétrus in Bordeaux, where he was exposed to the great French winemaking traditions. Back home in California, he went on to make wine at Chalk Hill, Matanzas Creek, Dominus Estate and Rudd Estate, helping to establish these well known wineries. David’s work, pioneering the use of native yeasts, as well as malolactic and barrel fermentation, has successfully created a luxuriant wine style that has garnered acclaim the world over.
Ramey Wine Cellars specializes in Cabernet blends, Chardonnay and Syrah, and crafts both a single-vineyard series, as well as an appellation series. Ramey’s Cabernets come from Napa Valley’s best vineyards and are incredibly rich, powerful expressions of the grape. View all available Ramey Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon.
Heitz Wine Cellars
Founded by Joe and Alice Heitz in 1961, Heitz Wine Cellars is one of Napa Valley’s most legendary estates. Joe Heitz began working part-time as a cellarman during the 1940s. Then an aspiring veterinarian, destiny called and he fell for winemaking instead. Joe and Alice bought their first vineyard in 1961 and set to work building Heitz Wine Cellars, quickly establishing a shining reputation as one of Napa’s most prestigious wineries. Focusing on Cabernet Sauvignon, Joe’s talent for winemaking and the couple’s hard work resulted in wines of the highest quality.
Heitz Wine Cellars produced the first Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon in 1966, introducing a wine that would develop a cult following and become legendary around the world. The story begins in 1963, when Tom and Martha May bought the land, recognizing its potential and believing that the site would merit a single-vineyard label. They were given a couple bottles of Heitz as a housewarming gift, and visited the winery soon after. When Joe and Alice Heitz met Tom and Martha, the couples were fast friends, a bond that proved very fortunate for Napa Valley Cabernet! The Heitz family arranged to be the sole buyer of the May family’s grapes, and thus began one of the greatest relationships in wine-making history. Heitz Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet would become the first vineyard designated wine in Napa Valley and helped to establish California as a serious contender in the world of wine. The 2004 Heitz Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Martha’s Vineyard is ready to be enjoyed.
Diamond Creek
Since 1968, Diamond Creek has been producing Cabernet Sauvignon exclusively. The wines exhibit the distinctive qualities imparted by the soils and micro-climates of Diamond Creek’s three vineyards. Keeping productions small, the resulting wines are long-lived, elegant and complex, celebrated by connoisseurs the world over. View all available Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignon.
Altamura Vineyards and Winery
Well off the beaten path in Napa Valley, Altamura Vineyards and Winery is the only winery located in Wooden Valley, situated high amidst pastoral, rolling hills. Frank and Karen Altamura established the winery in 1985 and practice a careful, hands-on approach to grape growing and winemaking. Frank’s passion for winemaking is clear in each bottle of the winery’s highly collectible wines. We were blown away by the 2007 Altamura Cabernet Sauvignon.
Blackbird Vineyards
Located in the Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley, Blackbird Vineyards bares a strong resemblance to Bordeaux’s Pomerol region. With its cool climate and gravelly soils, Oak Knoll has proven to be an exceptional location for Merlot production. Led by the expertise of winemaker Aaron Pott, one of Napa’s finest, Blackbird Vineyards produces truly special Bordeaux-style red wines. The 2008 Blackbird Vineyards Arise is sublime.
An Evening with Chef Angelo Sosa
Chef Angelo Sosa at De Gustibus
On September 27th, I had the pleasure of attending the De Gustibus Cooking School’s “Asian Adventures” class with Angelo Sosa, Executive Chef and Owner of Social Eatz here in NYC. Angelo is a protégé of Jean-Georges Vongerichten, having worked for a number of years at Restaurant Jean-Georges in Manhattan, Ocean Club at Dune restaurant in the Bahamas and opening Spice Market as Executive Sous Chef. In 2009, Angelo went on to open his own restaurant, Xie Xie (shay-shay), a fast paced-casual establishment in Hell’s Kitchen. Then, in 2010, Angelo was cast in Season 7 of Bravo’s hit reality series “Top Chef”. His most recent endeavor is Social Eatz, a fun, creative American-Asian restaurant and bar in mid-town Manhattan.
Angelo’s energy and enthusiasm was palpable as he prepared a stunning five-course menu while telling entertaining anecdotes from earlier in his career as a Chef, and earlier in his life. Each dish that Angelo demonstrated for the class was a sensational, playful surprise and paired beautifully with the wines of New Zealand Complexity.
The first course was a delightfully spicy Sweet Tomato Soup, made with whole peeled San Marzano tomatos, lemongrass and curry cream. The soup was paired with one of our favorite sparklers from New Zealand, the NV Quartz Reef Sparkling Methode Traditionnelle ($28).
Next, Angelo whipped together his Tuna Pastrami with Asian Pickles and Rye. In this tuna preparation, a riff on NYC’s classic sandwich, a center cut sushi grade tuna loin is cured overnight in an exotic spice mixture, including coriander, smoked paprika, mustard seed and allspice. The tuna is sliced sashimi style and garnished with chili mayo, the homemade Asian pickles and a sprinkling of rye bread “bits”. The result is incredibly refreshing and invigorating combination of textures and flavors, a dance party in your mouth, if you will. The Tuna Pastrami paired wonderfully with both the NV Quartz Reef Sparkling Methode Traditionnelle ($28) and the 2008 Craggy Range Kidnapper’s Vineyard Chardonnay ($24) that were poured while Angelo prepared the dish.
The third course was Angelo’s modern take on “Pork & Apple Sauce”, which is spiced up with Pickled Japanese Ginger Sprout and Sake. The Pork and Apple Sauce à la Angelo was paired with the 2008 Craggy Range Kidnapper’s Vineyard Chardonnay ($24), which really highlighted the apples and Asian pears in the dish.
For the fourth course, in a whirlwind of energy, right before our bemused eyes, Angelo created the most delicious Korean Beef Tacos with pickled veggies. The freshness of the pickled veggies combined with the sweet-salty-spiciness of the marinated beef, all tucked into homemade tortillas, made for a real savory finale to the exquisite menu. The Korean Beef Tacos paired marvelously with the 2008 Craggy Range Te Muna Road Pinot Noir ($40).
Angelo’s final demo of the evening was dessert, a Corn “Brulée” with bitter sugar, sake and blueberries. This was the perfect end to the menu, a not-too-sweet spin on classic Crème Brulée. I usually can’t finish a dessert course all by myself, but had no problem with this.
This was my first experience at the De Gustibus Cooking School and it was truly a treat. Watching Angelo demo five courses, each distinct yet unified by Asian flavors, and learning from his methods and tips was an inspiring adventure! Adding to the whole experience of the evening, I had the opportunity to interview Angelo after the class and learned even more about one of New York City’s great Chefs. The Wine Cellarage’s exclusive interview with Angelo Sosa is below…
WC: The wine menu at Social Eatz is manageable, yet eclectic. What was your philosophy behind choosing the wines?
Angelo: A dining experience is not only formed by the greeting at the door, the presentation of the menus, the staff and the food, but it’s the whole experience of the wines that really accentuates the dining experience, along with the personality of the restaurant. Social Eatz is more of a casual environment and we have a very affordable and very easy to drink wine menu; wines that are very diverse with different types of flavor, from Rieslings to Gewurztraminers and Sauvignon Blancs. The wines we’ve chosen are very manageable and very easy to drink.
WC: Is there a wine pairing rule of thumb that you go by?
Angelo: Maybe it’s a little bit unorthodox, but personally I think any combination can work. Flavors are subjective. ‘Drink what you like’ is really the bottom line. You eat what you like, so why shouldn’t you drink what you like? Who’s to say what goes with what? Maybe there’s a certain combination that you can extract an epiphany experience from, but in the end, you have to drink what you like and what you enjoy.
WC: At what point in your life or career did you become Asian food devotee?
Angelo: Working with Jean-Georges Vongerichten definitely was the first exposure to Asian flavors. But in retrospect, thinking back on my life, part of my Latin-Dominican side had an influence. Very spicy foods with a plethora of flavors, from rice and beans, to ingredients such as bay leaf, vinegar, cumin and coriander. That background is really the essence of my inspiration and affinity for Asian flavors.
WC: What was the most valuable lesson or experience that you took from being a Top Chef contender?
Angelo: Biggest lesson, other than ‘taste your food’, was to be 100% confident in what you put out. Stand behind what you put out. There shouldn’t be justification, it’s your vision, it’s what you feel and you have to stand behind it. You can sell yourself on your passion and what you love to do and then people will love what you are doing. When people are placed outside of their element they actually accomplish more.
WC: What has been your greatest culinary achievement to date?
Angelo: Competing back to back on Top Chef. I created over 50 dishes, improv. I think that’s a lot for one person under those extremes, the pressures of being on national camera, cooking for those judges, competing outside of your element. It’s a big accomplishment.
WC: As Executive Chef and Owner of Social Eatz, where does the inspiration for your menu and recipes come from?
Angelo: Definitely from my travels. I’m very keen and really push myself to travel. It’s a very important process of linking and bridging the beginning phases of travel and discovery to the end product.
WC: If there’s a wine you could drink every day, what would it be?
Angelo: Definitely Icewine. I think I would take a bath in it if I could.
WC: Have you tried Icewines from Canada?
Angelo: Yes, absolutely. And I love the ones I’ve tried from Niagara too. I love sweet things.
WC: Finally, what is your favorite ingredient?
Angelo: I go through phases and get very compulsive with ingredients. I would say either Dill or Sriracha.
Kissing Summer G’Bye with Castello di Monsanto
Castello di Monsanto wines at the estate.
September is always a busy month from Labor Day on. It’s back-to-school and back to the grindstone as the lazy days of summer draw to a close. For those in the financial sphere, September marks the end of the third quarter and is an especially busy time, and likewise, for those of us in the wine world, a parallel whirlwind ensues. In wine retail circles, we’re busy attending trade wine tasting events and choosing the wines we’ll offer through the fall and winter seasons. Many importers and distributors hold their portfolio wine tastings in September, making it a wine soaked month for those of us in the trade.
At The Wine Cellarage, we’ve had a very fun and eventful month, with some intriguing and exquisite wine tasting dinners. Last Thursday, September 22nd, on the eve of the fall equinox, we held our last event of the summer, hosted by Laura Bianchi, who, together with her family, owns Castello di Monsanto in Tuscany.
Starting with their first vintage in 1962, Castello di Monsanto’s founder – the Bianchi family – has achieved distinction in their wines. The Il Poggio vineyard was chosen as the Estate’s first Chianti Classico cru and was carefully tilled out of the land’s stony soils. Fabrizio Bianchi felt that white grape varietals had no place in his impeccable Chianti Classico and removed these from the blend in 1968, giving way to a more refined wine. Castello di Monsanto is distinctly respectful of their Tuscan terroir and its native grape varietals. Their wines are some of the region’s finest expressions – powerful, elegant and pure.
“Monsanto is a reference-point producer for fine Chianti. The estate’s top bottlings have a brilliant track record, but these entry-level wines deliver almost as much pleasure at much more accessible prices.” – Wine Advocate, August 2010
Our Castello di Monsanto Wine Dinner was held in The Morgan Library Dining Room within The Morgan Library & Museum. This truly special venue was built by financier Pierpont Morgan between 1902 and 1906, next door to his New York residence at Madison Avenue and 36th Street. Designed by architect Charles McKim, the structure was built to display one of the world’s greatest collections of artistic, literary, and musical works, while reflecting the inherent character of the rare artifacts within. McKim’s design resulted in an Italian Renaissance-style palazzo comprised of three magnificent rooms, an incredibly elegant structure.
The Dining Room itself was the original Morgan family dining room, located in the refurbished nineteenth-century brownstone, and provided the perfect ambiance for showcasing the extraordinary wines of Castello di Monsanto.
Guests were greeted with a refreshing glass of NV Mionetto Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG ($20), crafted from single vineyard grapes that are specially selected from the finest area of Valdobbiadene. This delicious, exotically perfumed prosecco was provided by Mionetto USA, the importer of Castello di Monsanto’s wines. A delicate sparkler, with fine, creamy bubbles, the Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore made the perfect aperitif. A great way to kick off the evening!
Laura Bianchi was a wonderful host and got up several times throughout the evening to introduce Castello di Monsanto and the exceptional wines that we all enjoyed. Laura explained the history of the estate and shared the story of how she came back to the family business after her career as a lawyer. She described the beauty of Tuscany and the Chianti region, transporting the entire room to that magical place. With heartfelt words, Laura spoke of the terroir surrounding the wine estate and how everything in the air, the nearby forests and the soil contributes different elements to the finished wines. We were honored to have Laura Bianchi host the dinner and share these special wines with us.
Once guests were seated, The Morgan’s staff graciously poured the featured older vintages of Castello di Monsanto’s ‘Il Poggio’ Chianti Classico Riserva and we were all treated to a rare vertical tasting of the estate’s iconic single vineyard wine. The 1997 Castello di Monsanto ‘Il Poggio’ Chianti Classico Riserva is delicious and just coming into its peak drinking years. Rich black fruit aromas and flavors are layered with herbaceous notes and a sweet spice character. Full-bodied and unctuous, the ’97 Il Poggio has great structure and incredible length, a real gem that you can uncork with confidence and drink now!
It was fascinating to taste the youthful 2003 Castello di Monsanto ‘Il Poggio’ Chianti Classico Riserva ($50, Wine Advocate – 92 pts) alongside the 1997 vintage. 2003 was a hot vintage throughout Europe and in the ’03 Il Poggio, the heat manifests itself with generosity and grace, offering opulent flavors and mesmerizing lushness. It was tough to put the glass down. Displaying less prominent herbal notes than the ’97, the ’03s complexity comes through in tiers of tobacco and spice aromas. This wine is a great beauty!
The older Il Poggio vintages were served with a delightful trio of Savory Popovers, including Asiago, Taleggio and Gorgonzola. Yum.
Next up, we were each poured glasses of the 2006 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva and the 2003 Castello di Monsanto Nemo Cabernet Sauvignon Tosana IGT to accompany our delicious main course, a Pan Roasted Chicken Roulade with Alphonso Olive Gnocchi, Braised Romaine and Preserved Lemon Emulsion.
The 2006 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva ($23, Wine Advocate – 91 pts) is adorned with its original label and in Laura Bianchi’s words, is a “true expression of Tuscany and the Sangiovese grape.” The image on the label is a painting of the estate from the 1800s and the label itself has never been changed since the wine’s release. The 2006 Chianti Classico Riserva is stunning and delicious, a great value from the estate.
The 2003 Castello di Monsanto Nemo Cabernet Sauvignon Tosana IGT ($52, Wine Advocate – 94 pts) is still in its youth and will continue to age beautifully for years to come. The Nemo was named for the latin saying “nemo propheta in patria” (No-one is a prophet in his own land) and pays tribute to the resistance that the estate met with during the early 1980s, as they began producing wine from Cabernet, which was an unconventional choice at the time. The grapes for Nemo come from a single vineyard, Il Mulino, and the wine is truly spectacular, rich and enchanting.
The evening concluded with a glass of the 1993 Castello di Monsanto Vin Santo La Chimera IGT ($54 for a 375 ml bottle), which was perfectly paired with The Morgan’s Oven-Roasted Seasonal Fruit Cobbler. Laura introduced the Vin Santo, explaining that the Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes for the dessert wine are left to hang on the vines until the end of October, then carefully harvested and dried on racks until the beginning of March, giving them greater concentration. Once fermentation begins, the grape must is transferred to 50-100 liter oak casks, where the wine continues to undergo alternating cycles of fermentation and then maturation. Fermentation happens during the warm, summer months and is halted during the colder, winter months, during which time the wine is allowed to mature. These cycles of fermentation and maturation go on for 12 years! The 1993 Vin Santo La Chimera is the current vintage and is a lovely wine, not too sweet with pretty aromas, fine texture and medium body. This is my kind of dessert wine, refreshing the palate after a delightful dinner.
The Castello di Monsanto Wine Dinner was the perfect way to end the summer season and to transition into the fall. These warming Italian wines are ideal for drinking throughout the harvest season and into the cold weather months.
Bouchard Père & Fils Wine Dinner at Aureole
Tuesday, September 13th 2011
Bottles of Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils Gevrey-Chambertin and Meursault.
This past Tuesday, I had the pleasure of attending an exquisite wine dinner at New York City’s Aureole, hosted by Luc Bouchard of Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils, representing the ninth generation of the family. The dinner was held in Aureole’s elegant private Halo Room, a lustrous dinning space designed with custom backlit sconces that surround its guests and imbue a soft, warm glow. Rich fabric panels and silver leaf detailing add to the Halo Room’s modish adornment.
Founded in 1988 by Charlie Palmer, Aureole was originally located in a historic townhouse off Madison Avenue. In 2009, Aureole reopened in the Bank of America Tower at One Bryant Park, the most environmentally progressive skyscraper in the world, making it a fitting home for Palmer’s flagship restaurant and his signature Progressive American cuisine. When creating Aureole, Palmer was inspired by Manhattan’s famous French restaurant, Lutèce, a NYC landmark for over 40 years. Palmer’s Progressive American cuisine was founded in his early dedication to “farm over factory food”. Today, the Michelin-starred Aureole continues to thrive at its new location, under the kitchen leadership of Executive Chef Marcus Gleadow-Ware.
The Wine Cellarage has been a long time devotee of the Bouchard family’s wines. When Henriot Inc, the exclusive importers of Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils, presented us with the opportunity to co-host this wine dinner, we were thrilled. Established in 1731, Bouchard Père & Fils is one of the Côte d’Or’s most legendary producers. The team behind this great winemaking house is fully committed to producing fine wines that are pure expressions Burgundy’s many terroirs.
Maison Bouchard Père & Fils is located on the site of the ancient Château de Beaune, the underground fortress built by King Luis XI. The Bouchard family has used the underground stronghold as an ideal place for the slow maturation of their wines. Millions of fine and rare bottles are nestled in the cellars of this historic site, in optimal well-protected storage conditions.
Over the past three centuries, the Maison has been devoted to acquiring the very best parcels, in order to build a prestigious domaine and has obtained many vineyard holdings, largely composed of Grand Cru and Premier Cru vines in the heart of the Côte. Champagne Henriot, one of the oldest family-owned Champagne houses, purchased the Maison in 1995. Champagne Henriot’s ownership, together with the Bouchard family’s continued involvement, has carried the Maison’s longstanding tradition of excellence into the 21st Century.
Luc Bouchard was a genial host and visited each table in the dining room, spending time talking with the guests in between courses.
Guests were welcomed into the Halo Room with a glass of NV Champagne Henriot Brut Souverain ($50) and a delicious selection of passed hors d’oeuvres, including irresistible Gougères (classic French cheese puffs) and a delightful tuna tartare. The Champagne was a huge hit. A blend of 50% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs and 50% Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims, the Brut Souverain is aged in the quiet darkness of Champagne Henriot’s Gallo-Roman crayeres. These dramatic cellars, unique to the Champagne region, are carved out of chalk 60 feet underground and provide optimal aging conditions. Upon release, the Brut Souverain has been aged to perfection. Its elegance and richness made it the perfect aperitif and accompaniment to the hors d’oeuvres.
Once the guests were seated, each was graciously poured a glass of 2009 Bouchard Père & Fils Bourgogne Blanc ($18) and our first course appeared, a delectably flavorful Peekytoe Crab salad, with cucumber, watermelon, tomato and summer squash. This combination was ethereal. The refreshing quality of the Chardonnay, its light citrus notes, melon and peach aromas and crisp, integrated acidity and silky smoothness, made it a gorgeous pairing for the flavors in the crab dish.
For the next course, we were presented with a beautiful piece of Alaskan Halibut with English Peas, Girolles (Golden Chanterelles), Pearl Barley, Sea Beans and a soft, poached egg. This stunning dish was paired with the 2008 Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault Genevrières Premier Cru ($85), a truly magnificent wine. This Meursault’s enduring stonefruit aromas mingle enticingly with exotic floral and spice notes, following through with peach and apricot flavors, refined richness and silken texture. This was a lively, playful companion for the halibut, accenting the elegant richness of the dish with complementary texture and supple acidity. A favorite among the dinner guests, the 2008 Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault Genevrières Premier Cru has a long lasting, memorable finish that beckons you to come back for more.
The Alaskan Halibut and Meursault Genevrières were a tough act to follow, but the third course pulled it off magnificently. A perfectly prepared Veal Ribeye with Hen of the Woods mushrooms, Brown Butter Pomme Puree and Perigord Truffle Jus, was paired with the 2008 Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune du Château Rouge ($42). This wine is showing red berry aromas and flavors, with notes of leather and sweet spices. On the palate, the gamey, savory quality and bright red fruit flavors made it a perfect accompaniment to the veal. The combination was utterly sublime.
The dessert was a pleasant departure from the typically sweet course. Guests were presented with a lovely cheese plate of Murray’s Artisanal Cheeses. The cheese selections were paired with the 2009 Bouchard Père & Fils Gevrey-Chambertin ($54). The Gevrey’s charming wild berry flavors, earthiness and fresh, medium fullness made a superb escort for the cheeses. The Gevrey’s lingering finish was the perfect way to cap off this delightful, delicious evening!
Fall Wines: What to Pour through Harvest Season
Glasses of red wine for a chilly fall day.
As summer draws to a close, my feelings are bittersweet. As in years past, I’ve begun to reflect on all that I’ve done for the past few months, all of the fresh produce that I’ve had on the dinner table and of course, all of the delightful, refreshing wine that I’ve consumed. There was no shortage of rosé this summer and I’ve added some newly discovered pink wines to my repertoire that are sure to be go-tos for years to come. Bieler Père et Fils Sabine Rosé from Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, Mulderbosch Vineyards Rosé from Stellenbosch, and Prieuré de Montezargues Rosé of Tavel AC, just to name a few. I always have a hard time parting with the summer, yet my sentiments are sweetened by the prospect of a new season and all that it holds in store.
The daylight hours are gradually growing shorter and the nights cooler. The first hints of fall can be detected in the air and my taste is slowly beginning to favor red wines over whites and rosés. As autumn approaches, I’ve begun to formulate my list of favorite wines for fall, choices which are influenced partially by the cooling weather and largely by the produce that appears at this time of year, the bounty of the harvest. Rich butternut squash soups, savory mushroom ragùs and apple desserts are the first dishes that come to mind, along with hearty stews, roasted vegetables and pumpkin breads. So, what will I be drinking this fall?
Syrahs for Sweater Weather
On chilly autumn nights, I tend to crave a rich, robust red wine with spicy, earthy qualities…bring on the Syrah! The red wines of the Northern Rhône Valley certainly fit the bill here, embodying the full-bodied, warming spicy character that takes the chill off. The wines of Crozes Hermitage offer some of the best values from the region, especially those from renowned producers such as Paul Jaboulet, E. Guigal and Maison Chapoutier.
A few to try include 2007 Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert ($50, IWC – 92 pts), 2007 E. Guigal Crozes Hermitage Rouge ($22, WA – 88 pts) and 2007 Maison Chapoutier Crozes Hermitage Les Varonnieres ($48, IWC – 90-93 pts).
For a special occasion, an early fall harvest celebration or, dare I say it, for your Thanksgiving wine (it will be here before we know it!), try a Syrah from Côte Rôtie or Hermitage. The 2003 Domaine Delas Freres Côte Rôtie la Landonne ($167, WA – 96 pts) and 2004 Maison Chapoutier Ermitage Le Meal ($99, WA – 90+) are excellent choices in the splurge category.
Fall Wines from the Rhône Valley
Grenache-Syrah blends from the Southern Rhône Valley, with their irresistible lushness and jammy quality, are ideal for taking the chill off of autumn evenings. Wines that catch my fancy at this time of year come from the appellations of Châteauneuf du Pape, Vacqueyras and Gigondas, and reputable producers such as Chateau de Beaucastel, Domaine du Pégau and Clos des Papes. This fall, cozy up with the 1998 Chateau de Beaucastel Châteauneuf du Pape ($125), the 2000 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Reservée ($85) or the 2004 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf du Pape ($75).
Rhône Rangers
Don’t forget the Rhône Rangers when making your fall wine selections! Producers in California’s Central Coast have been key advocates of Rhône grape varietals outside of the Rhône Valley. “Rhône Rangers” is not just a cute moniker, this is an actual non-profit organization that promotes Rhône style wines in the Golden State. We are big fans of their efforts and would drink these yummy single-varietal wines and blends ‘til the cows come home (if it weren’t for certain other responsibilities). Our favorite Rhône Ranger wines include the 2009 Jaffurs Syrah Santa Barbara ($30, WA – 92 pts) and the 2008 Tablas Creek Vineyard Esprit de Beaucastel Rouge Paso Robles ($43).
Italian Wines for Fall
Each fall, I find my mind drifts toward Italian wines, especially those of Northern Italy. Many of Piedmont’s wines, whether from Nebbiolo, Barbera or Dolcetto grapes, tend to possess an appealing layer of earthiness, reminiscent of a berry patch or the forest floor. Italian cuisine from this region offers that same earthy quality, pronounced by the use of wild mushrooms and game meats. Italy works magic with foods of the fall forage! These Northern Italian foods and wines are a match made in heaven and it’s no wonder that they have such an appeal during the autumn season, when we start to crave heartier fare and more robust wines.
Keep in mind that wines from the slow-ripening Nebbiolo varietal, renowned for its extremely powerful tannins, can age for decades, so best to go for one that has had some time in the cellar. Both Barolo and Barbaresco, Piedmont’s most prestigious appellations, are made from 100% Nebbiolo. Signature qualities of Barolo wines include red fruit character, floral aromas of rose or violet, and hints of tar, mushrooms and leather. Barbaresco is the not as powerful and concentrated as Barolo, but shares many of the same enchanting characteristics.
Many Barberas offer a great value from the region, typically showcasing lively cherry flavors, wonderful, food-friendly acidity and the underlying earthiness that I’m after in the fall. Dolcetto, the “little sweet one”, is another great value from Northern Italy. In general, Dolcettos are supple, fruit-forward wines with sweet plum aromas and flavors, delicate tannins and soft acidity. Barbera and Dolcetto are both easy to drink, palate pleasers in a nutshell!
Here are some of Northern Italy’s finest from renowned producers:
2005 Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco ($62)
2004 Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana ($87)
2006 Elio Grasso Barolo Gavarini Vigna Chiniera ($75)
2004 Alfredo Prunotto Barolo Bussia ($70)
2007 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili ($149)
2008 Ca Rome Barbaresco Chiaramanti ($69)
2007 La Spinetta Barbera d’Asti Ca’ di Pian ($24)
2009 Moccagatta Barbera d’Alba ($19)
Cabernets for Coat Season
As temperatures continue to drop and we start donning our jackets more frequently, rich, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignons have a definite appeal. The Cabernet Sauvignon grape has a far-reaching reputation and is widely planted throughout the world’s wine regions from Bordeaux to Australia. Well-loved by grape growers, for its resistance to disease, and wine lovers, for its satisfying richness and tannic structure, Cabernet Sauvignon is just the thing for a chilly late-fall evening.
When it comes to Cabernet Sauvignons for the fall and winter season, California is often my go-to region. Stellar California producers that are sure to quench my thirst this fall include Ramey Wine Cellars and Altamura Vineyards.
Founded by David and Carla Ramey, Ramey Wine Cellars is located in the charming town of Healdsburg, in the heart of Sonoma County. David Ramey is one of California’s leading winemakers, recognized for contributing innovative techniques to New World winemaking, while staying true to Old World traditions. David has a graduate degree in winemaking from the University of California at Davis and began his career working at the legendary Chateau Pétrus in Bordeaux, where he was exposed to the great French winemaking traditions. Back home in California, he went on to make wine at Chalk Hill, Matanzas Creek, Dominus Estate and Rudd Estate, helping to establish these well known wineries. David’s work, pioneering the use of native yeasts, as well as malolactic and barrel fermentation, has successfully created a luxuriant wine style that has garnered acclaim the world over.
Ramey Wine Cellars specializes in Cabernet blends, Chardonnay and Syrah, and crafts both a single-vineyard series, as well as an appellation series. Ramey’s Cabernets are spectacular expressions of Napa terrior. The 2006 Ramey Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($40) and single-vineyard 2008 Ramey Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Pedregal Vineyard ($149) are both excellent and fitting choices for the fall season.
Well off the beaten path in Napa Valley, Altamura Vineyards and Winery is the only winery located in Wooden Valley, situated high amidst pastoral, rolling hills. Frank and Karen Altamura established the winery in 1985 and practice a careful, hands-on approach to grape growing and winemaking. Frank’s passion for winemaking is clear in each bottle of the winery’s highly collectible wines. The 2007 Altamura Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($99) is highly rated by both the Wine Advocate and Wine Spectator and one need only have a sip to become a devotee of this exceptional winery.
Finally, the 2007 Faust Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($42) is a wine of outstanding quality and value. This decadent wine, offering lavish layers of black currant and dark chocolate, is the archetypal Napa Valley Cabernet, with all of its seductive charm and power. There is no doubt that it will keep you warm and fuzzy as the temperatures drop this fall and winter.
Faust Cabernet Sauvignon is the inspired project of Agustin Huneeus, owner of the renowned fine wine estates Quintessa, in Napa Valley, and Veramonte, in Chile’s Casablanca Valley. Ten years after Quintessa’s first release, temptation knocked on Agustin’s door, luring him to create a wine dedicated not to Napa’s terroir, but to majestic Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa’s reigning grape varietal, and we couldn’t be more grateful!
Reveling in the Rhône Valley
Smooth stones covering a vineyard in Chateauneuf du Pape, Southern Rhone Valley
From the Northern Rhône’s long-lived, sweet-spiced Syrahs and exotic, perfumed Viogniers to the lush, layered Châteauneuf du Papes of the south, the Rhône Valley is home to some of the world’s most prestigious wines and encompasses an intriguing range of producers and wine styles. Second only to Bordeaux, the Rhône Valley produces more quality wines of Appellation Contrôlée status than any other region. The Northern Rhône’s steeply planted vineyards and legendary appellations, including Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage, give the great wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy a run for their money. In the Southern Rhône, the Grenache blends of the historic Châteauneuf du Pape appellation have an allure that has entranced many a wine lover.
A Bit of History
Wine has been made in the Rhône Valley since ancient times, evidenced by wine vessels (amphorae) found in the area that date back to the 1st century BC. Ancient Greek and Roman historians wrote of the vines and wines grown in the valley during that time. From then on, the Rhône was an important trade route for the Greeks and Romans that resided in the region and speculations continue as to where the two main grape varietals, Syrah and Viognier, originated from.
During the middle ages, most of the wine consumed by the papal court came from the Rhône Valley. The court was moved to Avignon in the Southern Rhône during the 14th Century, at which time the Pope’s summer residence was constructed to the north of the city. This residence was known as ‘Châteauneuf du Pape’, literally the ‘Pope’s new castle’, the name that was later bestowed upon the famed appellation and its wines (but not until as recently as the 19th Century). Legend has it that Pope Clement V come to Avignon in the early 1300s and commissioned the first of the papal vineyards, although his successor, John XXII, was given most of the credit.
The Rhône River Valley
One of the world’s most important wine rivers, the Rhône rises from the Alps in Switzerland and flows west through the vineyards of Valais and on to Lyon in France, where it turns south and makes its journey to the Mediterranean. Although the Rhône courses through vineyards in Switzerland and Eastern France, the eminent area for wine production begins in Vienne and stretches south to the area of Avignon. The region is separated into two very distinct sub-regions, the Northern Rhône and the Southern Rhône, by about 37 miles. These two separate areas each have their own unique terrain and produce a range of grape varietals and wine styles. The differences in topography between the north and the south profoundly affect the character of the wines from each region as well as the volumes that each produces. Most prominently, the vines of the northern appellations are planted on steep, sloping inclines, while in the south, the river valley opens and the vineyards are planted on flat land and exposed to the infamous Mistral winds.
The Northern Rhône
The Northern Rhône produces a small fraction of the Rhône Valley’s wine and has a cult following among fine wine lovers. This part of the valley is very narrow and marked by precipitous slopes planted with grapevines, namely those of Syrah, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne. The steep slopes enhance sun exposure on the vineyards and protect them from the Rhône Valley’s chief environmental force, the Mistral, a cold northern wind that can potentially damage the vines. The chilly wind has the redeeming affects of keeping the grapes disease-free, reducing their size and in turn, contributes to concentrated flavors in the finished wines.
Syrah reigns King of the Northern Rhône and is the only grape varietal permitted in red wines of the region. The reigning white varietal of the region is lovely, aromatic Viognier, the Queen if you will. Next in line are Marsanne and Roussanne, a dynamic duo that are often blended together and balance each other out. Marsanne offers richness and body, while Roussanne imparts delicacy, fragrance and refreshing acidity.
From north to south, the seven appellations of the Northern Rhône are Côte-Rôtie, Condrieu, Château Grillet, Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage and Cornas. Côte-Rôtie surrounds the town of Ampuis and translates to ‘roasted slope’, for the affect of the intense sun that beats down on the steeply terraced vines. Only red wine is produced here, from Syrah of course, and the vineyards are so steeply planted that they can only be tended by hand. Côte-Rôtie was the trendsetter for Australia’s Shiraz-Viognier blends, allowing small amounts of Viognier to be added to their incredibly elegant, yet powerful wines.
Condrieu is south of Côte-Rôtie and like its northern neighbor, located on the river’s west bank. Here, only dry white wine from Viognier is produced, an exceptional floral, aromatic delight that’s best to drink in its youth. Within Condrieu lies the single vineyard appellation Château Grillet, producing distinctive barrel-aged white wines, also from Viognier.
Saint-Joseph is the next vineyard along the Rhône River and also on the west bank. This appellation is on flatter ground than the vineyards to its north and is known for lighter-bodied, red-berry scented Syrahs, along with white wines made from Marsanne and Roussanne.
Across the river from Saint-Joseph’s southern reaches lies Crozes-Hermitage and Hermitage. As the only appellations on the river’s eastern bank, they are privileged with great exposure to the afternoon sunlight. Crozes-Hermitage has a flatter terrain and produces the largest wine volume in the Northern Rhône. The appellation’s red wines are made from Syrah, although small quantities of Marsanne and Roussanne are allowed, and the white wines are predominantly from Marsanne.
Perhaps the most sought after and prestigious wines of the Rhône Valley come from Hermitage, the smaller, steep hillside appellation that lies within the boundaries of Crozes-Hermitage. The red wines from Hermitage are some of France’s most full-bodied and extremely age worthy. White Hermitage is equally impressive, a blend dominated by Marsanne and incredibly long-lasting as well.
Cornas, the most southerly of the Northern Rhône appellations, is a sheltered area that is well-exposed to the sun, producing dark, full red wines made solely from Syrah.
The best-known producers in the Northern Rhône include Paul Jaboulet, E. Guigal, Chapoutier, Delas and Jean-Luc Colombo. Here are some great wines to get you started on your exploration:
2007 Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert ($50, IWC – 92 pts)
2008 Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Roure ($54, IWC – 91 pts)
2004 Maison Chapoutier Ermitage Le Meal ($99, WA – 90+)
2004 Maison Chapoutier Côte Rôtie La Mordoree ($79, IWC – 91 pts)
2007 Maison Chapoutier Crozes Hermitage Les Varonnieres ($48, IWC – 90-93 pts)
2003 Domaine Delas Freres Côte Rôtie la Landonne ($167, WA – 96 pts)
2009 Delas Freres Cotes du Rhone St Esprit ($12, WA – 90 pts)
Jean-Luc Colombo is known for wines crafted from the small appellation of Cornas, where the sloping granite soils and the Mediterranean climate, impart a delightful, unique character to the wines. His elegant, alluring Syrahs with lovely floral aromas and expressive black currant and licorice flavors are widely celebrated.
2008 Jean-Luc Colombo Terres Brulées Cornas Syrah ($48, WS – 91 pts)
One of the Rhône Valley’s finest producers, the Guigal family owns some of the very best vineyards in Condrieu and in the Côte-Rôtie, producing some of the most illustrious, sought-after wines of the region.
2009 E. Guigal Condrieu La Doriane ($99, WA – 95 pts)
2007 E. Guigal Crozes Hermitage Rouge ($22, WA – 88 pts)
2009 E. Guigal Condrieu ($45, WA – 92 pts)
2005 E. Guigal Côte Rôtie Chateau d’Ampuis pre-arrival ($150, WA – 94-96 pts)
The Southern Rhône
The vineyards of the Southern Rhône begin about 37 miles south of the northern appellation, near the village of Donzère, where the terrain of the valley is distinctly flatter, with sandy and rocky soils. Much closer to the Mediterranean, the climate is more temperate with hot summers and mild winters, yet the vineyards are fully exposed to the Mistral winds.
The grape varietals and wine styles are more varied and abundant in the south, with Grenache taking the lead in the ubiquitous Côtes du Rhône red blends as well as the higher quality red wines. All in all, 13 varietals are permitted in the wines of the Southern Rhône, however, in the red wine category, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre dominate. Cinsault, with its low tannins, bright fruit and high acidity makes its way into reds too, but its most important role is in rosés (especially those of Tavel).
For white wines, Clairette and Grenache Blanc are key players, along with Bourboulenc and the three Northern Rhône white varietals, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne. The resulting wines are round, rich and full with high acidity.
Côtes du Rhône AC is the blanket appellation for the Rhône Valley and comes mostly from the Southern Rhône, making up more than 80% of its wine production. These can be red, white or rosé and comprise many of the region’s best value wines. Côtes du Rhône Villages AC is the next step up in quality and is governed by more regulations than the former.
Châteauneuf du Pape is the star appellation of the Southern Rhône and it will jump out at you in any wine shop. These Grenache dominated red blends are almost always in heavy weight, dark bottles with a raised, embossed symbol of papal significance. The labels too are hard to miss, beautifully scripted and flourished in many cases. The wines inside the bottles are what really count, and they certainly live up to their adorned packaging. At their best, red Châteauneufs are deliciously rich, lush and sweet fruited, with intriguing spiciness, savory qualities and the ability to age gracefully for years. A small amount of white wine is also produced here and displays a rich, full-bodied character, with brilliant, complex aromatics including almond, anise, rose and honeysuckle.
Châteauneuf du Pape’s terroir is famous for its ‘galets roulés’, the smooth, round rocks that cover the clay soil below. These rocks retain the heat from the sun during the day and release it throughout the night, causing the grapes to ripen more quickly than in other areas. These smooth stones also help to protect the soil and retain moisture in the dry climate. Although prevalent, the ‘galets’ are not present in every vineyard and the region is home to many soils, including sandy loams with no stones at all.
The neighboring appellations of Vacqueyras and Gigondas lie in the eastern part of the valley and produce high quality red wines, similar to those of Châteauneuf du Pape. There are no white wines produced in either of these appellations.
On the western bank of the river, Lirac and Tavel lie adjacent to one another and are renowned for their sensational rosés, made mostly from Grenache and Cinsault grapes.
Here are our picks from the Southern Rhône:
2007 E. Guigal Gigondas ($27, WA – 92-94 pts)
2007 Domaine La Bouissiere Gigondas Font de Tonin ($40, IWC – 90-93 pts)
2007 Domaine du Cayron Gigondas ($27, IWC – 92-95 pts)
2008 Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas ($30, WS – 91 pts)
1998 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($125, WA – 96 pts)
2000 Domaine Pierre Usseglio Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul ($85, WA – 95 pts)
2006 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee ($60, IWC – 94 pts)
2009 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf du Pape ($118, WA – 92-95 pts)
2009 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf du Pape ($62, IWC – 91-93 pts)
2009 Clos des Brusquieres Châteauneuf du Pape ($38, IWC – 91-93 pts)
2010 Bordeaux Futures
First Growth Wines of Bordeaux
The old adage that great Bordeaux vintages come in pairs is ringing true for the 2010 vintage as it joins the ranks beside 2009. The 2010 vintage is stacking up to be a beauty for Bordeaux and here at The Wine Cellarage, we are thrilled to present these exceptional wines for En Primeur purchase.
The 2010 Bordeaux Futures have been donned with bullish scores and exorbitant prices yet again with some of the top wines priced higher than ever. The question is, how bullish are you feeling when it comes to 2010 Bordeaux Futures and why buy-in now?
Given the very recent turbulence in the market and the current economic uncertainty, you may be hesitant to diversify your portfolio with 2010 Bordeaux Futures at the moment, but investing in wine from a great vintage should be carefully considered nonetheless. The main incentive for buying futures is to snag the wines up at a lower price before they are bottled, at which point the values have the potential to increase 20% to 30%. The other payoff is, of course, guaranteeing that you get a piece of the pie, since these wines are produced in finite quantities. There is only so much wine to go around and there are plenty of consumers and investors out there who are thirsty, willing and able to lap it all up. Wine is a very tangible commodity, another appealing aspect of the investment.
Here lies the conundrum. The 2010 Bordeaux vintage first and second growths will cost you a pretty penny, causing a lot of seasoned Bordeaux buyers to respond bearishly, yet the quality of this Bordeaux vintage is so promising! Robert Parker has anointed the 2010 Bordeaux vintage with fantastic scores, submitting that “it is an inescapable truth that 2010 has produced another year of compelling Bordeaux that will go down as a prodigious vintage alongside 2009. Take your pick – this news is either tragic or mythical, but I have tasted enough wines from 2005, 2009 and 2010 to realize that these may be the three greatest Bordeaux vintages I have tasted in my career.”
The 2010 Bordeaux growing season was warm and extremely dry, producing small, thick-skinned grapes with elevated sugar levels, a potentially cumbersome combo. However, during August and September, cool nights swept into the Gironde maintaining the high acidity levels needed to balance the opulent, concentrated fruit and sugar. These wines are thus infused with delightful freshness, giving them impeccable balance and ensuring astounding longevity.
There are several different approaches that you can take when investing in Bordeaux Futures. Some experts advise scooping up only the first growths and highly regarded second growths, but this isn’t a realistic tactic for everyone. Robert Parker recommends that those interested in buying 2010 Bordeaux Futures “forget about the first-growths, super-seconds and a handful of other limited production glamour wines as they will be beyond the reach of all but the wealthiest millionaires and billionaires” and advises choosing from the “many, many good values and great wines” that can be bought at much lower prices. Mid-range under-the-radar wines, when given a favorable score, have been known to jump in value, making them a savvy choice.
The returns on your investment in 2010 Bordeaux could be really great, not to mention that you will always have the option to drink and enjoy the wine if nothing else. These are my favorite kind of liquid assets! Once you’ve done your homework and chosen the 2010 Bordeaux Futures that you’re going to buy, be sure to secure the best wine storage possible to keep your investment in pristine condition.
Below you will find a short guide to the 2010 Bordeaux Futures that we have to offer at The Wine Cellarage. To view our entire collection available for En Primeur purchase, Click Here.
Red Wines of the Left Bank
First Growths
2010 Château Margaux, Margaux ($1,350; Wine Advocate: 96-98 pts)
2010 Château Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac ($1,850; Wine Advocate: 98-100 pts)
2010 Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac ($1,300; Wine Advocate: 97-100 pts)
2010 Château Haut Brion, Pessac-Leognan ($1,250; Wine Advocate: 98-100 pts)
Second Growths
2010 Château Léoville Las Cases, Saint Julien ($320; Wine Advocate: 95-98 pts)
2010 Château Pichon Longueville Baron, Pauillac ($238; Wine Advocate: 97-99+ pts)
2010 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, Pauillac ($245; Wine Advocate: 92-95+ pts)
2010 Château Ducru Beaucaillou, Saint Julien ($260; Wine Advocate: 96-98+ pts)
2010 Château Cos d’Estournel, Saint Estèphe ($330; Wine Advocate: 95-97 pts)
2010 Château Montrose, Saint Estèphe ($235; Wine Advocate: 96-99+ pts)
2010 Château Lascombes, Margaux ($124)
Third Growth
2010 Château Lagrange, Saint Julien ($70; Wine Advocate: 89-92+ pts)
Forth Growth
2010 Château Branaire Ducru, Saint Julien ($82; Wine Advocate: 93-95 pts)
White Wines of the Left Bank
Superior First Growth
2010 Château d’Yquem, Sauternes ($720; Wine Advocate: 96-98 pts)
First Growths
2010 Château Climens, Barsac ($124; Wine Advocate: 94-96 pts)
2010 Château Rieussec, Sauternes ($82; Wine Advocate: 90-92 pts)
Right Bank Beauties
Saint Émilion
If right bank is more your style, choices include premier grand cru classés Châteaux such as 2010 Château Cheval Blanc, Saint Émilion ($1,450; Wine Advocate: 96-98+ pts), 2010 Château Angélus, Saint Émilion ($390; Wine Advocate: 94-96+ pts), 2010 Château Belair Monange, Saint Émilion ($330; Wine Advocate: 95-97+ pts) and 2010 Chateau Troplong Mondot, Saint Émilion ($165; Wine Advocate: 96-98+ pts).
Top-notch grand cru classés such as the 2010 Château Canon La Gaffelière, Saint Émilion ($100; Wine Advocate: 92-94 pts), which Parker has given a preliminary score of 92-94 points, represent excellent quality and value from Bordeaux that is available at a relatively approachable price.
Pomerol
The unclassified wines of Pomerol cannot be overlooked and represent some of the region’s finest quality and best values. One of Pomerol’s preeminent producers, Château Trotanoy, is known for wines that epitomize the seductive quality and age-worthiness of great Bordeaux. The nearby Château Latour à Pomerol is another excellent producer with an admirable track record.
2010 Château Trotanoy, Pomerol ($385; Wine Advocate: 93-95+ pts)
2010 Château Latour à Pomerol, Pomerol ($150; Wine Spectator: 95-98 pts)
2010 Château Rouget, Pomerol ($110; Wine Advocate: 91-93 pts)
2010 Château La Fleur de Gay, Pomerol ($105; Wine Spectator: 90-93 pts)
2010 Château Plince, Pomerol ($75; Wine Spectator: 91-94 pts)
Hidden Gems
Finally, when selecting your 2010 Bordeaux Futures, don’t forget to peruse the smaller, lesser-known estates. Although these estates don’t have the prestige of Château Margaux or Petrus, certain Châteaux not only present exceptional quality for a fraction of the prices of the top-tier Premier Crus, they also hold a sentimental value with many of us wine lovers. The words of Chris Kissack, a.k.a the Wine Doctor, strike a chord when he recalls “fond memories of bottles from small, backwater estates which [he] encountered early in [his] affair with wine. Crisp, flavoursome whites from the Entre-deux-Mers, and rich, well-defined reds from the Côtes de Castillon, even generic Bordeaux from a good vintage such as 1990, these were early favourites…”
Mt. Difficulty Winemaker’s Dinner at ’21′ Club
Tuesday, July 19th 2011
Last week I had the pleasure of attending a sumptuous wine dinner at New York City’s ’21′ Club, hosted by Matt Dicey, the winemaker of Mt. Difficulty Wines in Central Otago, New Zealand. The dinner was held in the elegant, upstairs dining room, Upstairs at ’21′, surrounded by vibrant murals of New York landmarks created exclusively for ’21′ by Brooklyn-based artist Wynne Evans.
Mt. Difficulty is a boutique winery located in Bannockburn in Central Otago, New Zealand and owns some of the region’s oldest vineyards. Central Otago is the world’s most southern vineyard area and has unique, unpredictable temperature fluctuations on a daily basis, as well as from season to season, which turns out to be a plus for growing finicky Pinot Noir. The distinctive microclimate of Bannockburn provides hot summers and cool autumns, coaxing the very best out its Pinot Noir grapes. The namesake of the nearby mountain that shelters the vineyards, Mt. Difficulty Wines is an exceptional New Zealand producer.
Here at The Wine Cellarage, we’ve been fans of Mt. Difficulty for quite some time, which is why we were thrilled to find out that Matt Dicey was coming to town and jumped at the opportunity to partner with ’21′ Club for this special wine dinner. Matt is a fourth generation winemaker and has been making Mt. Difficulty Wines since 1999. Matt was a wonderful host and gave captivating introductions for each of the wines that we tasted, going into the differences in soil types, the mixture of clays and gravels found in the region, along with the influence of the region’s climate on grape-growing there. Matt’s jovial disposition and informative dialogues made the evening truly memorable.
Guests were welcomed with a glass of the 2010 Roaring Meg Pinot Gris and a delicious selection of passed canapés, including tuna tartare and lobster and crab salad. The Pinot Gris was crisp and refreshing, cooling everyone down as they came in from the intense heat!
The dinner, prepared by Executive Chef John Greeley, began with seared sea scallops over English pea risotto, razor clam nage and kefir. The scallops were paired with the 2008 Mt. Difficulty Estate Pinot Gris and the 2008 Mt. Difficulty Estate Sauvignon Blanc, offering an interesting juxtaposition. The Pinot Gris complimented the dish perfectly, enhancing the inherent sweetness of the scallops and peas with its aromatics, floral and tropical qualities. The Sauvignon Blanc had a more racy acidity that cut right through the richness of the dish, while its herbaceous notes played harmoniously alongside the pea risotto. Both wines were a great pairing, but I preferred the Estate Pinot Gris.
Next up, we were presented with sockeye salmon, a fricassee of mushrooms, sweet corn purée, lemon butter and dry chilis. This lovely salmon was paired with the 2006 Mt. Difficulty Estate Chardonnay and the 2009 Roaring Meg Pinot Noir, both working marvelously with different elements in the dish and really demonstrated that both varietals can offer an enticing pairing for salmon. The Estate Chardonnay’s red apple notes had a pleasant interplay with the corn purée, while the wine’s creaminess highlighted the splendid richness of the sockeye and lemon butter, finishing with palate cleansing, fresh minerality. On the other hand, the Roaring Meg Pinot Noir complimented the earthiness of the mushroom medley and provided a refreshing contrast to the salmon’s rich texture and flavor.
By the time the third course arrived, animated conversation was as plentiful as the wine being poured and our table had covered a range of topics including biodynamic farming, sustainable energy and the differences between salmon from New Zealand and that from the Atlantic. The grilled lamb chop (cooked beautifully on the rare side) and belly were presented with an array of accompaniments – fine herbs with honey mustard, cherry tomatoes, zucchini blossom and smoked bacon. The lamb was paired with the 2008 Estate Pinot Noir and the single-vineyard 2008 Long Gully Pinot Noir, providing the opportunity to compare different bottlings from the same vintage.
The Estate Pinot Noir showed rich, black fruit and prevalent, balanced tannins and acidity, making for a wonderful pairing. Both Pinots shared rich dark fruit, black cherry and blackberry characteristics, yet the Long Gully had greater complexity and finesse. The Long Gully displayed wild berry flavors, currants and cassis, along with floral and violet aromas, velvety tannins and harmonious acidity that carried through on the long, sweet fruit finish.
The final course, a Pavlova filled with passion fruit coulis and exotic sorbets, was paired with the 2008 Roaring Meg Riesling. This vibrant dessert was the perfect finale to the dinner, where each element came together and made for an enchanting evening of magnificent wine, incredible food, flawless service and delightful ambiance.
South Africa: Emergent Wine Region Par Excellence
Vineyard and traditional Cape Dutch homestead at Buitenverwachting wine estate in Constantia, Cape Town.
Over the past 20 years, South Africa has emerged as a wine producer of substantial proportions when it comes to quality and value. South Africa’s wines have been my go-to recently, charming my palate with their elegant style and budget friendly price points. The region boasts a number of stellar estates and winemakers, each seeming to have a captivating back-story. Tales of intrigue or not, the wines speak for themselves…
Every time I taste a new wine from South Africa, especially those imported by Cape Classics, I become more enamored with the region. Had I known the treasure trove that was in-store, I would have started exploring South African wine a long time ago. The region’s reputation as a source of fine wine has been slowly but surely gaining awareness. Overcoming the industry’s long-time reign of giant growers that inundated the market with mediocre, poor-quality juice, the winemakers of this Southern hemisphere region had their work cut out for them.
History
The history of South Africa’s wine industry goes back to the spice trade era, over 350 years ago, when 33-year old Dutch surgeon Jan van Riebeeck arrived at the Cape of Good Hope to establish a supply station for East India Company sailors on their long journey to East Asia. Jan van Riebeeck was commissioned to plant fruits and vegetables, including grapevines, and although he was not specifically interested in viticulture, he rejoiced when Cape wine was first produced in 1652, seven years after he arrived there. Since that early time, South Africa’s wine industry has experienced its fair share of ups and downs, from the success of renowned Constantia dessert wines, the favorite of Europe’s 18th century aristocracy, to natural pestilence and the detrimental affects of bulk wine production.
After the ravaging affect of the phylloxera epidemic that struck in 1866, South African wine growers attempted to recover and make up for lost time by planting copious, high-yielding vines, flooding the industry with low-quality and downright bad wine. There was such excess at some points during this period that wine was literally dumped into the rivers to dispose of it. This wine glut led to the formation of the KWV (Co-operative Wine Grower’s Association) in 1918, an organization that had the power to delineate production areas, quantities and minimum pricing. The KWV defeated its purpose by favoring larger grape-growers and encouraging mass-production, while simultaneously deterring the region’s smaller producers at the cost of quality. Fortunately, the KWV surrendered most of its clout in the early 1990s and South Africa’s passionate producers have had more freedom to craft the high-quality wines of their dreams.
Since the ‘90s, South Africa’s wine industry has experienced a renaissance led by dedicated producers whose world-class wines truly shine. Whether tasting one of the region’s ubiquitous Chenin Blancs or an exceptional Bordeaux Blend, the tendency toward superlative quality is becoming more and more apparent.
Terroir & Climate
The majority of South Africa’s vineyards are spread throughout the Cape of Good Hope’s southwestern areas, near the coastline. Here you will find one of the world’s most diverse wine terrains – majestic mountains rise up from the waves of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, verdant valleys undulate into desert-like dry lands and meld with the region’s inland mountain chains.
The Cape’s soils are extremely acidic, calling for lime treatments. The wines often need tartaric acid adjustments and require tartrate removal prior to bottling. Stellenbosch, the second oldest wine district in South Africa, is home to 50 different soil types, illustrating the region’s incredibly varied terroir.
Largely a Mediterranean climate, the warm summer season runs from November to April, followed by damp, cold winter conditions. Environmental influences unique to South Africa include the Benguela current that flows from Antarctica and cools the region down considerably, lengthening the growing season and allowing many vineyards to slowly ripen despite the intense sun. Another unique climatic characteristic, known as the Cape Doctor, is the gale force summer wind that quells humidity and protects the vines from mildew and fungal diseases. This aggressive wind, although beneficial to some extent, can sometimes be too much of a good thing, resulting in tattered vines.
Wine Regions
Enacted in 1973, South Africa’s wine legislation is known as Wine of Origin and defines the wine regions as well as guaranteeing the information presented on wine labels. The Wine of Origin (WO) certification is only granted after a given wine is tasted and approved by a panel. The wine regions are organized by size with the estates being the smallest, followed by wards, encompassing a group of estates, districts, which enclose groups of wards, and finally regions, which are the largest wine production areas in South Africa. Wards are the closest in nature to French appellations and are delineated by unique soil and environmental influences, elements of terroir.
The majority of South Africa’s fine wine comes from the Coastal Region near Cape Town and in the southwestern area of the Cape. Within the Coastal Region lies Constantia, South Africa’s oldest and most legendary wine ward. Located just outside of Cape Town, the small area is home to just five wine estates – Klein Constantia, Groot Constantia, Buitervenwachting, Constantia Uitsig and Steenberg. The nearby sea has a wonderful cooling affect on these vineyards and provides ideal growing conditions for Sauvignon Blanc.
Stellenbosch is the second oldest wine region in South Africa and lies east of Cape Town. Located along the False Bay, where the cool waves of the Atlantic Ocean sweep in and moderate the grape-growing climate, Stellenbosch is an exceptional area for Bordeaux style blends, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes in particular. Shiraz does especially well in this region and makes its way into Bordeaux blends, adding a unique twist! Stellenbosch is also known for Pinotage, the Cape’s very own clone crossing Pinot Noir with Cinsaut. Along with delicious red wines, Stellenbosch boasts excellent white wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. These crisp, bright white wines display pure fruit flavors that are kissed by sea air, with hints of refreshing salinity and racy minerality.
Wines to Try Now
Many of our favorite South African producers are located in the Stellenbosch region, including Mulderbosch, Rustenberg, Thelema and Raats Family Wines.
Glenelly is a renowned Stellenbosch producer with a heritage that dates back to the 17th century. May-Eliane de Lencquesaing purchased the property in 2003, after running the famed Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande for 30 years prior. May de Lencquesaing is renowned for the wines of her Pauillac Grand Cru Classé Chateau and has upheld the same level of excellence at Glenelly.
2010 Glenelly Chardonnay The Glass Collection, Stellenbosch ($14) The Glenelly Glass Collection was inspired by antique glass pieces from May de Lencquesaing’s private collection. The Glass Collection Chardonnay showcases invigorating aromas of peach, citrus and ginger. Crisp and refreshing on the palate, this lovely Chardonnay has an enduring finish.
The 2007 Glenelly Grand Vin de Glenelly ($25) is the estate’s signature red blend offering elegant, complex aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, plum, spices and hints of toasted hazelnut. On the palate, this wine has a rich intensity that is harmoniously balanced by refreshing brightness and great structure.
2010 Mulderbosch Vineyards Rosé, Stellenbosch ($12) Mulderbosch Vineyards is located in the Stellenbosch Hills area and is widely accepted as one of the very best white wine producers in the country. In addition to their award-winning whites, they produce two highly regarded reds and this excellent 100% Cabernet Sauvignon rosé – a delicious, refreshing summertime sipper that showcases complex aromas and flavors of rose petals, lime zest and wild strawberry.
2007 Rustenberg John X Merriman, Stellenbosch ($25) A blend of five Bordeaux varietals, the John X Merriman is one of South Africa’s most legendary wines. Named for the Prime Minister of the Cape who, in the late 1800s, bought and refurbished part of the historical Rustenberg estate, this wine is rich with cherry and licorice flavors that mingle seductively with smoky tobacco and spice notes.