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Wine
Bouchard Père & Fils Wine Dinner at Aureole
Tuesday, September 13th 2011
This past Tuesday, I had the pleasure of attending an exquisite wine dinner at New York City’s Aureole, hosted by Luc Bouchard of Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils, representing the ninth generation of the family. The dinner was held in Aureole’s elegant private Halo Room, a lustrous dinning space designed with custom backlit sconces that surround its guests and imbue a soft, warm glow. Rich fabric panels and silver leaf detailing add to the Halo Room’s modish adornment.
Founded in 1988 by Charlie Palmer, Aureole was originally located in a historic townhouse off Madison Avenue. In 2009, Aureole reopened in the Bank of America Tower at One Bryant Park, the most environmentally progressive skyscraper in the world, making it a fitting home for Palmer’s flagship restaurant and his signature Progressive American cuisine. When creating Aureole, Palmer was inspired by Manhattan’s famous French restaurant, Lutèce, a NYC landmark for over 40 years. Palmer’s Progressive American cuisine was founded in his early dedication to “farm over factory food”. Today, the Michelin-starred Aureole continues to thrive at its new location, under the kitchen leadership of Executive Chef Marcus Gleadow-Ware.
The Wine Cellarage has been a long time devotee of the Bouchard family’s wines. When Henriot Inc, the exclusive importers of Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils, presented us with the opportunity to co-host this wine dinner, we were thrilled. Established in 1731, Bouchard Père & Fils is one of the Côte d’Or’s most legendary producers. The team behind this great winemaking house is fully committed to producing fine wines that are pure expressions Burgundy’s many terroirs.
Maison Bouchard Père & Fils is located on the site of the ancient Château de Beaune, the underground fortress built by King Luis XI. The Bouchard family has used the underground stronghold as an ideal place for the slow maturation of their wines. Millions of fine and rare bottles are nestled in the cellars of this historic site, in optimal well-protected storage conditions.
Over the past three centuries, the Maison has been devoted to acquiring the very best parcels, in order to build a prestigious domaine and has obtained many vineyard holdings, largely composed of Grand Cru and Premier Cru vines in the heart of the Côte. Champagne Henriot, one of the oldest family-owned Champagne houses, purchased the Maison in 1995. Champagne Henriot’s ownership, together with the Bouchard family’s continued involvement, has carried the Maison’s longstanding tradition of excellence into the 21st Century.
Luc Bouchard was a genial host and visited each table in the dining room, spending time talking with the guests in between courses.
Guests were welcomed into the Halo Room with a glass of NV Champagne Henriot Brut Souverain ($50) and a delicious selection of passed hors d’oeuvres, including irresistible Gougères (classic French cheese puffs) and a delightful tuna tartare. The Champagne was a huge hit. A blend of 50% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs and 50% Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims, the Brut Souverain is aged in the quiet darkness of Champagne Henriot’s Gallo-Roman crayeres. These dramatic cellars, unique to the Champagne region, are carved out of chalk 60 feet underground and provide optimal aging conditions. Upon release, the Brut Souverain has been aged to perfection. Its elegance and richness made it the perfect aperitif and accompaniment to the hors d’oeuvres.
Once the guests were seated, each was graciously poured a glass of 2009 Bouchard Père & Fils Bourgogne Blanc ($18) and our first course appeared, a delectably flavorful Peekytoe Crab salad, with cucumber, watermelon, tomato and summer squash. This combination was ethereal. The refreshing quality of the Chardonnay, its light citrus notes, melon and peach aromas and crisp, integrated acidity and silky smoothness, made it a gorgeous pairing for the flavors in the crab dish.
For the next course, we were presented with a beautiful piece of Alaskan Halibut with English Peas, Girolles (Golden Chanterelles), Pearl Barley, Sea Beans and a soft, poached egg. This stunning dish was paired with the 2008 Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault Genevrières Premier Cru ($85), a truly magnificent wine. This Meursault’s enduring stonefruit aromas mingle enticingly with exotic floral and spice notes, following through with peach and apricot flavors, refined richness and silken texture. This was a lively, playful companion for the halibut, accenting the elegant richness of the dish with complementary texture and supple acidity. A favorite among the dinner guests, the 2008 Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault Genevrières Premier Cru has a long lasting, memorable finish that beckons you to come back for more.
The Alaskan Halibut and Meursault Genevrières were a tough act to follow, but the third course pulled it off magnificently. A perfectly prepared Veal Ribeye with Hen of the Woods mushrooms, Brown Butter Pomme Puree and Perigord Truffle Jus, was paired with the 2008 Bouchard Père & Fils Beaune du Château Rouge ($42). This wine is showing red berry aromas and flavors, with notes of leather and sweet spices. On the palate, the gamey, savory quality and bright red fruit flavors made it a perfect accompaniment to the veal. The combination was utterly sublime.
The dessert was a pleasant departure from the typically sweet course. Guests were presented with a lovely cheese plate of Murray’s Artisanal Cheeses. The cheese selections were paired with the 2009 Bouchard Père & Fils Gevrey-Chambertin ($54). The Gevrey’s charming wild berry flavors, earthiness and fresh, medium fullness made a superb escort for the cheeses. The Gevrey’s lingering finish was the perfect way to cap off this delightful, delicious evening!

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