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After a long, cold winter in the Northeast, I know that I am not alone in my thirst for a change from the go-to red wines that I’ve been drinking for months now. My taste buds and palate are ready for wines of a lighter hue (specifically in the range of brilliant yellows flecked with golden highlights, or those with sublime chartreuse-inflections). I’m ready for bright, racy acidity and minerality that you can smell and taste. Springtime is a harbinger of the fine white wines that we will enjoy throughout the warm season, all the way until the late autumn when our tastes will change with the season once again. Some of the very best choices for our warm weather palate preference are those hailing from eastern France, specifically from the Burgundy region.
There is a popular misconception that white wines offer less complexity than reds. That establishes a palate without the privilege of sampling the fascinating vintages of east central France. White Burgundy wine, also known as French Chardonnay, is recognized by its strong, yet intricate profile, universally acclaimed to be the best expression of Chardonnay grapes in the world. The styles of White Burgundy range from those that are rich and creamy, exuding a honeyed nuttiness, to more restrained expressions that exhibit dazzling, flinty minerality. White Burgundies benefit greatly from an additional 10 to 15 years of proper cellaring and regularly outshine their peers, even without the added time in the bottle.
There are five growing regions in Burgundy: Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise, Côte de Nuits, Mâconnais, and Chablis. The vineyards throughout Burgundy began preparing for their noble commission 200 million years ago, when a vast tropical sea deposited limestone-rich soils throughout the region. Today’s soils are laden with pieces of limestone, marl, and sea creature fossils, elements which, paired with harsh winters and hot summers, come together to deliver pure, crisp white wines with incredible depth.
Classification of whites with Burgundian pedigree measure production as 1 percent Grand Cru, 10 percent Premier Cru, 37 percent village wines, and 52 percent regional wines. All have a most respectable profile, with increasing complexity as one climbs the ladder of classifications to the 1 percent Grand Cru, but even many of the village and regional wines produced in Burgundy are superior, high value wines. Each of the individual growing regions, however, pay their own complements to cuisine as the seasons move from hearty winter fare to the fresh, new vegetables and lighter dishes of spring.
The northernmost region of Chablis delivers wines known for crisp, pure qualities imparted from the cold winters, hot summers, and chalky Kimmeridgian soils. All wines from Chablis are white wines produced from Chardonnay grapes. Chablis has its own ranking system, from the light citrus of a young Petit Chablis, to the distinctive Grand Cru Chablis wines like the zesty Côte de Léchet and the fruity Fourchaume.
The Côte de Beaune region produces richer styled Chardonnays earning complex profiles that are excellent wines. The vineyards of Beaune represent some of the world’s most intriguing, sought after and long-lived Chardonnays. Village and Premier Cru wines from Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Meursault and Beaune will be money well spent, especially for those vintages produced under the winemaking expertise of Louis Jadot and Bouchard Père et Fils. The wines of Domaine Joseph Drouhin, whose white wines command a higher price than even their red Burgundies, also produce distinctive, high quality Chardonnays.
Mâconnais, Burgundy’s most southerly growing area, harvests about two weeks earlier than Chablis, producing fresh wines with solid structure, and perfectly balanced acidity from their limestone and granite soils. The bowl of Mâconnais vineyards, with villages peppering the bottom, is guarded by the rock plateaus of Solutré and Vergisson. Here the climate and landscape both become more Mediterranean. Out of favor during the depression and the following resurgence, this area has made a comeback with a style that is highly valued by contemporary palates, imparting ripe stone fruit, citrus, honeysuckle, and pineapple flavors. Pouilly-Fuissé is one of our favorites from Mâcon, bestowing the consumer with a satisfying and complex sip that is a great accompaniment for salads, shellfish, and light meats. Overall, the wines of the Mâconnais offer some of the best values in the wine world.
Many white Burgundy wines are eminently drinkable now, but true connoisseurs will know to buy enough to taste through a range of years for a most satisfying view of the aging profiles. Vertical tastings are lovely, but for many, tasting a single vintage as it ages proves equally fascinating. Search our online wine shop’s wide assortment of White Burgundy to find your perfect springtime wines, or call our wine retail store at (718) 991-5700(718) 991-5700 to speak with one of our fine wine experts.
A challenging growing season to say the least, the 2012 vintage for Bordeaux will be a story of survival of the fittest. A cold and wet spring poured a deluge twice the norm on the budding vines, affecting flowering and setting. July brought moody rains, encouraging disease and causing spotty ripening. Two weeks into July, the sun came out with no relief until August had almost passed by, at which time nature again turned a cold shoulder to the vines, weeping on the struggling fruit during a late, chilly harvest.
A difficult year? Absolutely. Pass on En Primeur? That depends. While market trends have shifted some buyers away from Bordeaux, and is still showing definitive weakness, there are some highlights worth considering. Good terroir can produce good wine, even in bad years, if handled properly and tended intelligently. This year, then, will be one in which expertise will be rewarded, and those resting on laurels, or simply hoping for the best, will fall and fail.
Nature smiled on certain grape varietals in the 2012 vintage, including Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Thus, dry whites basically did well in 2012, and Merlots seem to be performing favorably, especially Pomerol and St.-Emilion wines. Rather difficult challenges were set up for some of the reds, especially those predominantly composed of Cabernet Sauvignon. Sauternes was especially hard-hit in 2012, and larger, renowned Châteaux, including d’Yquem, announced that they would not produce any grand vin from the tenuous vintage. This news did not bode well for the other Châteaux in the region. There are always exceptional cases, so we must ask, did 2012 bring anything really special to the table?
The 2012 Château Margaux found the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon ever in the mix at 87 percent. With moderate term potential, the popular dense structure, dark fruit, and high tannins may end up building a lovely glass.
The 2012 Château Palmer Margaux is put together nicely, with another densely structured sip built of 48 percent Merlot, 46 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 6 percent Petit Verdot. This wine is looking to be a true gem of the vintage and worthy of investment for the right reasons.
Nowhere is the possibility of a good wine from a bad year more likely than from Château Mouton-Rothschild, where the legendary terroir yielded a rich, extravagant wine boasting big fruit and sweet tannins at this stage. The 2012 Mouton appears poised to deliver an extraordinary result that is built for the long haul. Château Lafite-Rothschild produced a more elegant, classic style in 2012 with a precious 38% of the harvest making it into the blend. While production of the 2012 Lafite is much lower, the wine is being offered at an attainable price for the first time in years. Wines from St. Julien, such as the 2012 Château Saint Pierre, and the Château Talbot, have shown rounded, lushly endowed wines with promise.
Why risk the money in such a difficult year? As with any investment, being both smart and lucky are in the mix, but the obvious answer is to apply known factors to access wines produced in limited quantities that may emerge as stellar sips. The added impetus comes from purchasing such wines at the best price, two years before bottling.
As the wines continue to build character in the barrel, and each additional tranch firms up the price, they await the final test. No matter what the experts, negociants, retailers, and journalists say, the real deal comes from the smiles on the faces of investors tasting the results of a good decision.
Making great wine requires land, expertise, and patience in abundance. Making great Kosher wine requires all that and more. Kosher wines must be produced by hands that understand and practice the Jewish faith, abiding by the regulations set forth in the Kashrut, or Jewish dietary law.
Traditionally, Kosher wine has a reputation as heavy, sweet, and generally a different drink entirely from the fine wine produced by the best vintners in France, Spain, Italy, and the United States. It doesn’t have to be that way.
As an increasing number of Jewish palates learn that Kosher wines can rival the best vintages from Champagne, Burgundy, and Napa Valley, Kosher winemaking is trending toward fabulous. For many, the sweet, syrupy sip of the past century has become tradition. For a growing number of Jewish households, however, the option to choose a fine wine built with the characteristics sought by more modern palates, while keeping Kosher, is a welcome change.
In addition to being processed and produced by observant Jews, Kosher wine must be made using Kosher equipment, with continual supervision by a Kosher agency, organization, or authoritative rabbi, in order to receive the hechsher, the Kosher seal of approval. When sealed, Kosher wine can be handled by anyone. Once opened, however, things change. Kosher wine must also be opened, as well as poured, by an observant Jew. Otherwise, it loses its Kosher status.
That can pose a challenge to fine restaurants employing non-Jewish waitstaff, but there is a fix for that. Any wine having undergone the flash-pasteurization process known as mevushal can be served by non-Jewish staff, retaining Kosher status regardless of who opens and pours the wine. While securing the Kosher designation, there are issues with bringing the wine to the boiling point. Would you willingly heat up a cherished vintage wine like a 1957 Lafite Rothschild? Debate has failed to resolve the question swirling around mevushal and its possible effects on a sumptuous sip.
Additional requirements of Kosher wine dictate that fining agents, those ingredients added to wine to assist in removal of suspended solids, observe the Kashrut. Some winemakers use dairy products such as casein, or non-kosher animal products such as gelatin made from swine, as fining agents, which would prohibit those wines from bearing the hechsher seal. The bottom line? At no time in the processing and production can a Kosher wine come in contact with a non-Kosher animal or ingredient.
Some excellent Kosher wine houses have gained notoriety in the last 10 to 20 years, especially those located in Israel’s Judean Hills and Samson regions. The soils and climates are conducive to growing a variety of quality wine grapes such as Carignon, Grenache, Muscat, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Chardonnay. Additionally, Napa Valley, Clarksburg, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, and the Russian River Valley AVAs have begun producing some very good to excellent Kosher wines.
Even Champagne houses have begun to produce dry Kosher bubbly that is light, refreshing, and vibrant. From Kosher producers of Champagne in France, Prosecco in Italy, and Cava in Spain, to sparkling wine producers in Napa Valley, CA, the expansion of choice for keeping a celebration Kosher is a most welcome one. By all means, continue the sweet syrup tradition if you must, but know that some fine Kosher wines await your discovery…to browse The Wine Cellarage’s Kosher selections, click here. L’chaim!
Gathering family and friends together for a holiday often demands food and wine to enhance the celebration. Such a memorable repast, prepared with carefully selected courses, deserves the company of carefully selected wines. Ensure each culinary milepost is met with a glass that brings out the best in both cuisine and company by engaging a wine merchant’s enologic expertise. Even if you have extensive wine knowledge, you will likely be pleasantly surprised at the wealth of possibilities stocked here at The Wine Cellarage, your local New York City wine store.
First courses often find shellfish, cheeses, and crisps of various types plated for service. To complement this range of appetizers, pour a Sparkling Wine or a crisp, minerally Chablis to enhance the first bites while refreshing the palate. A Pinot Gris made in the slightly richer style of the Alsace region of France pairs nicely with additions of salmon and Pâté to the plate.
Second courses are intended to prime the palate with savory soups. To complement the course, a Meursault with high-altitude, medium body Chardonnay, hinting of yellow fruit, cloves, and earth, maximizes the spice and character of clear soups. A good Riesling will gather together the flavors of a cream soup for an elegant second course.
Third course salads, whether hot or cold, are refreshed with a medium bodied white that will begin to set the stage for the main course. A good Sauvignon Blanc from Napa, or a Chardonnay, will crisp and cleanse the palate throughout the course, smoothly leading to fourth course entrée.
Fourth courses provide for greatest variation, from light seafood and vegetarian fare, to substantial prime rib and game, allowing for broad interpretation by the hosts in wine selection. Here is where your own personality will shine as you select your favorite vintages for the main event. It is also a fine time to break open the bubbly, further highlighting the most important course of the meal, and supplying the effervescence to lighten the plates. The importance of the choice focuses on matching the weight and flavors of the dish with the wine so that neither is overpowered, and the aromas entwine to compliment and engage each other, elevating the course to more than the sum of its parts.
Port wines deliver just the right spark to dessert courses, especially where chocolate is involved. The sweetness of the wine should match that of the course. Heavy tannins here would work against pleasing the palate in this closing course, so avoid Champagne and edgy reds in favor of sweeter, younger reds, jammy ports, with perhaps a demi sec Champagne for light, fruit-based desserts.
Most important of all is to serve what you love. Introducing friends to your own personal favorites is a joy and a pleasure that will be the stuff of memories for generations to come, creating new traditions with each celebration. For special birthdays and anniversaries, you might opt to purchase a few extra bottles of wines served to store and present at a later date in memory of the occasion. The recipients will be both surprised and grateful.
Cold weather cuisine simply loves going toe to toe with full-bodied wines flaunting festive personalities. With winter’s heartier fare, full of flavor and spice, reds often win starring roles but there are many big-boned whites that provide the perfect warm up for a winter feast.
White burgundies from Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet, sometimes unoaked, make exquisite companions for roast chicken, scallops, and fish dishes, delivering a creamy, savory palate that warms and satisfies hungry winter appetites. Some California labels, with nutty, oak-focused notes, enhance shellfish menus featuring cream sauces or gravies, frequently making additional appearances as ingredients in entrees.
Pinot Grigio wines from the Alsace region present strong profiles with a defined nose, making perfect cold weather companions for fois gras, roasted pork or white meat winter stews. The Trentino-Alto Adige region produces a number of Pinot Grigio labels with strong personalities that up the ante for every other region.
By its very nature, Champagne strikes a celebratory note, especially during the winter holiday season. Round, rich blanc de blancs make strong stand-alone toasts. Champagnes with pure, flinty energy, and a creamy mousse, are a welcome warm up for winter guests, providing an instant, elegant thaw. Pours of any of the Special Club Champagnes give up more than the sum of their parts, enchanting from label to last drop with high quality grower vintage wines.
White may be the color of the season, with snow, ice, and purity of spirit, but reds still find favor during the winter months. Serious beef and game dishes, replete with seasonal spice, welcome a robust, deeply detailed Cabernet Sauvignon to the table. Strong, smooth tannins, particularly those earned by grapes from one of the Beckstoffer Vineyards, or from France’s Beaune region, groom the wines for the most elegant tables, while building a structure that supports the most complicated menus of the season.
Pinot Noir wines bring together dark fruit, exciting spice, and enticing aroma, creating warmth and well-being in every glass. The gorgeous rim and body dance with color, anticipating the complex, concentrated sip of an Anderson Valley or Russian River Valley Californian, or a Loire Valley or Burgundy Francophile. Excellent with winter menus of roast goose, baked ham, light game, or winter vegetable soups, these wines are also good for planning ahead, as in the next five to ten winters, since many are excellent for cellaring.
Barolo wines simply taunt the cold with their bold flavors and exquisite palates. Deeply structured to show a new facet with each maturing sip, these wines open up and change from moment to moment, meal to meal, and year to year, with numerous pleasant surprises. Excellent choices from Italy’s Piedmont region show sumptuous color, flavor, and nose, embracing beef, wild game, aged cheeses, or truffled pasta as delicious dinner partners.
Winter’s chill may bring the party indoors, but these winter wines offer warmth and solace to help weather the season. Discuss the possibilities with one of New York City’s fine wine experts here at The Wine Cellarage to stock your cellar with all the right wines for all the right reasons.
Day six was our last day in Beaune as we headed south to Macon to visit Domaine Sainte Barbe. Sainte Barbe is not well-known here in the United States and it is a shame that it is not. Jean-Marie Chaland makes exquisite wine. The Domaine is farmed bio dynamically and sells grapes to the more famous Brett Brothers.
It is also sad that the wines of Macon do not get their just reward. They are considered inferior to the white wines of the Cotes de Beaune and although they do not deliver the depth that some of the Premier Crus and Grand Crus do from the Cotes de Beaune, they certainly achieve the purity of fruit, freshness, deliver wonderful terroir and overall length. I conclusively know that the wines of Sainte Barbe do.
Domaine Sainte Barbe was founded in 2000 and its name comes from a cross erected on top of the hill overlooking the vineyard. It comprises 8.2 hectares of Chardonnay in the villages of Vire and Montbellet divided into two appellations – Vire Clessé (5.7 ha) and Macon-Villages (2.5 ha). The Domaine consists of more than 20 separate micro-parcels, and produces roughly 3,000 cases a year. There’s a lot to like here: a high proportion of old vines – 3/4 of his estate is over 50 years old, and his prized Thurissey parcel is over 90. He always uses natural yeasts, and there is no chaptalization, nor acidification. His single vineyard bottlings are bottled unfined and unfiltered. The family has farmed organically since those early days, and Jean-Marie’s estate became certified organic in 2006 – the first grower in Viré-Clessé to obtain that certification.
After our visit with Jean-Marie we were off to the northern Rhone to visit the ‘King of Viognier’ Domaine Georges Vernay. Christine Vernay, Georges’ daughter took over the winemaking duties in 1996 and has brought the Domaine to even greater heights. She was named Personality of the Year for 2012 by the world-renowned wine experts, Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve. The Domaine also joined the 30 most prestigious French Wine Estates including Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Chateau D’Yquem, Champagne Krug, etc.
Domaine Georges Vernay lies among steep slopes of the northern Rhone Valley. The property has become a major emblem of French winegrowing, from the time when Georges Vernay saved the Condrieu appellation. Since 1997, Christine Vernay, Francis’ granddaughter, has continued the family commitment, anchoring its savoir-faire and imprinting her father Georges’ style on the reds and whites. She created the two Côte-Rôtie “Maison Rouge” and “Blonde du Seigneur”. The vision remains the same: create fine, elegant, harmonious wines that clearly express the character of the exceptional terroir.
Georges Vernay created the family business with 1.5 hectares of AOC Condrieu “Coteau du Vernon” vineyards. Towards the end of the 40′s, Georges Vernay became one of the most ardent defenders and saviors of the Appellation, then about to disappear.
Today, the vinification is assured by his children Luc and Christine Vernay and the estate extends over 16 hectares – 7 hectares in the appellation Condrieu, of which 3 hectares are old vines producing 2 prestigious vintages matured in barrels: the “Coteau de Vernon” and “Les Chaillées de l’Enfer”. Both vintages represent the quintessence of Condrieu’s Viognier vine. These exquisite incomparable white wines with their golden color are of great nobleness, full-bodied, unctuous and persistent. 3 hectares of Côte Rotie, 1.5 hectares of St.-Joseph and 5 hectares of local wine Syrah and Viognier. Whatever the classification, the wines are always delicious and of the highest quality.
We tasted through all of the wines of both estates across many vintages. Listed below are the hightlights of our tastings.
Domaine Sainte Barbe
Mâcon ‘Les Tilles’ 2011
Our Price: $21.00
This is from a parcel of 40-50 year old vines, located on a plateau of clay/limestone soil in the village of Montbellet. It is aged in stainless steel tanks, on its lees and then bottled. This wonderfully expressive, floral, citrusy Mâcon is super fresh, super mineral, and utterly delicious. The wine has apple fruit with a nose of white flowers. There is a touch of terroir with superb length. This is by far the best value in white Burgundy that we offer.
Viré Clessé ‘Vieilles Vignes’ 2011
Our Price: $25.00
Viré Clessé is an AOC of the Mâconnais region (similar to Pouilly Fuissé or St. Veran), created just over 10 years ago. It’s a relatively small AOC, producing less than half the quantity of Pouilly Fuissé or St. Veran. This Vieilles Vignes cuvée is produced from three parcels of 50+ year old vines, with gravelly soils. Deep fruit on the nose the wine is complex and concentrated. There is a wonderful mid-palate that leads to a very long finish. The wine is extremely aromatic of again white flowers and citric apples. The wine is very fleshy with great minerality. Jean-Marie says he likes this best at 3-5 years of age, but it sure tastes good right now.
Viré-Clessé ‘Thurissey’ 2011
Our Price: $35.00
Viré-Clessé ‘Thurissey’ is an exceptional little (1/2 hectare) south-facing parcel is on the northern end of the appellation, away from his other parcels. The vines here are up to 95 years old, and he produces only about 200 cases. Again, no new oak; he uses a regimen of barrels between two and five years old. The wine is kept in barrel for a year on its fine lees, then bottled, without fining or filtration. Thurissey is a wonderful expression of its terroir. The wine is rich, complex and concentrated with great balance. It is a wine that is mineral driven and although it is at this time understated this wine has the most potential for aging (10 years is not out of the question). To say that the wine challengers village level Cotes de Beaune is not a stretch and I would put it up to some Premier Crus as well. This is the real deal in Chardonnay and certainly a wine to buy.
Domaine Georges Vernay
Viognier ‘Pieds de Samson’ 2011
Our Price: $34.00
One of the peculiarities of Condrieu is that despite its big reputation, it is tiny; fewer than 150 hectares of vineyards. The vineyards in Condrieu must not lie above a certain altitude, 300 meters, to be called Condrieu otherwise the wines are classified only as ‘vin de pays’. What is interesting is it was Georges Vernay that pushed for this to be enacted. The Pieds de Samson, which could be someone elses Condrieu is ‘just vin de pays’. This 100% Viognier comes from the climats of La Caille and Mirebaudy, located at 300 metres above the town of Condrieu. Thus, Le Pied De Samson is the Estate’s ‘baby Condrieu’.
The yields for this wine are very low and the wine is fermented in stainless steel and bottled in the spring to keep its freshness. The result is a highly aromatic Viognier with lots of floral and stone fruit character and a lovely supple, layered texture with a mineral freshness. 2011 is a great fit for this wine, which displays the typical Vernay dance between exuberant generosity and mouth-watering freshness. It’s juicy, floral and sleekly stone-fruited but also dry, racy and saline. A very chic Northern Rhône Viognier that showcases the pretty fruit and balance of the vintage.
Condrieu ‘Terrasses L’Empire’ 2010
Our Price: $74.00
A mineral, saline wine with floral richness and great power. The acidity keeps this fresh and balanced and this will likely age well for up to a decade. This wine is clean, focused, with heaps of minerality and stone fruits. A great example of Condrieu. Excellent.
Condrieu ‘Les Chaillees de L’Enfer’ 2010
Our Price: $110.00
The wine complex, concentrated again with stone fruits and minerals. Wonderful length that keeps on going. The wine has butterscotch and rich but not over the top pineapple and other tropical fruits. Aged in 25% new oak. Again excellent.
Condrieu ‘Coteau de Vernon’ 2011
Our Price: $130.00
This is the oldest vineyard in Condrieu. Therer are 7,000 bottles produced.This wine is insane. Everything about its aromatics is exquisite, though still tight and precise. Rich but bright, intensely mineral and unlike any other Condrieu I’ve ever tasted. This is amongst the best white wines made in France and can age up to 20 years. This is excellence personified.
Cote Rotie ‘Maison Rouge’ 2010
Our Price: $130.00
You would think that this wine would hit you over the head with heaps of fruit i.e. California Cabernets , but the first think that hits you is the wine’s elegance. Yes there is big, bold fruit of blueberries and blackberries that sing across your palate, but it was the harmony and finesse that struck me. Rich and complex, concentrated and very long. This wine proves why Maison Rouge is a highly sought after wine for French oenophiles, even while generally unknown in North America. This is 100% Syrah. This is a brilliant wine.
Our sixth day in France brought us farther south within the Côte d’Or, to Givry in the southern end of the Côte Chalonnaise. There we visited Clos Salomon, a Premier Cru vineyard tracing its history back to the 1300s, and in our opinion, the preeminent domaine in the Côte Chalonnaise. From Givry, we traveled to the Santenay appellation in the Côte de Beaune and tasted the wines of Domaine David Moreau. We were hosted by young and talented winemaker David Moreau himself. In between appointments, we stopped for lunch in Givry. We encountered several driving obstacles on our sixth day in France, one such incident can be viewed in the photo to the left.
The last visit of the day brought us to the often undervalued appellation of Saint Aubin, west of Chassagne-Montrachet, where we had a wonderful visit at Domaine Hubert Lamy. Day six was an exploration and discovery of some of Burgundy’s true hidden treasures! We feel very strongly about each of the wines below and hope that you find them as valuable as we do.
Domaine Clos Salomon
Clos Salomon is a beautiful Premier Cru monopole vineyard tucked into the pastoral landscape of the southern Côte Chalonnaise. The vineyard has over 700 years of history reaching back to the 1300s. We were hosted by Ludovic du Gardin and Fabrice Perrotto, the Domaine’s young proprietors-cum-winemakers. Ludovic and Fabrice are the epitome of down to earth and their wines couldn’t be more true to the limestone and clay soils from which they come. Each wine that we tasted there had resounding purity and polish. The 2009 Givry is the current release.
Givry 1er Cru Monopole 2009, $36 – Generous aromas of sweet blackberry and raspberry fruit leap from the glass. The wine is lush with palate-coating fruit, velvety tannins and harmonious structure. The flavor of sweet kirsch is embedded at the core which expands into savory minerality and a finish that goes on for miles.
Domaine David Moreau
One of Burgundy’s rising star winemakers, David Moreau oversees 5 hectares of Village and Premier Cru appellations that comprise this family-owned domaine. Moreau practices environmentally conscientious growing and winemaking techniques, taking great care in both the vineyard and the cellar to produce wines of excellent quality that loyally reflect each terroir in his portfolio. We believe that Moreau’s Côtes de Beaune Villages is one of the best values to be had from all of Burgundy.
Côtes de Beaune Villages 2010, $25 – Aromas of bright, pure cherry fruit and exotic spice delight the nose. The wine is lush and ample on the palate, with a refined, firm structure. Sweet red fruit gives way to velvety textured tannins. Deep stony minerality drives the lengthy finish. Tremendous value!
Domaine Hubert & Olivier Lamy
Situated in the hills between Chassagne and Puligny Montrachet, the appellation of Saint Aubin is considered by many white Burgundy lovers to be one of the region’s hidden gems and greatest values. At Domaine Hubert & Olivier Lamy, we tasted with Olivier Lamy in his cellar after taking a jaunt up to his aptly named Derrière Chez Edouard vineyard, which is located behind the house of Edouard. This is also the location for Olivier’s high density planting experiment, where he has 30,000 vines planted per hectare. Higher density means more competition amongst the vines and smaller sized grapes that have great concentration and complexity of flavor. The young high density vines were planted in 2000 and the first vintage that he produced was 2006. This wine is extremely limited production – Olivier makes only one barrel of the wine per year. Consider yourself very lucky if you manage to get your hands on some!
Olivier Lamy took over the Domaine’s winemaking in 1992, when the position was passed down from his father, Hubert. Since that time, the winery has gone from success to another. Olivier began experimenting with larger 600-liter tonneaux casks, rather than small 225-litre barriques, a change that preserves the pure fruit character of the wine. Currently, the majority of his wine production is raised in these larger casks. The resultant wines are both refined and racy, showing off St. Aubin’s mineral-rich style.
We feel that the wines of Domaine Lamy are a benchmark of quality and precision in white Burgundy, and some of the most sensational white wines that we have ever tasted, period.
Bourgogne Blanc ‘Les Chataigners’ 2011, $32 – On the palate, the wine is lush with sweet, ripe citrus, tropical fruit and subtle spice flavors. The wine has racy minerality through its core. There is complexity and depth with a long lasting finish.
Saint Aubin Paradis Rouge 2011, $39 – Ever so elegant with bright cranberry and citrus notes, along with subtle spicy character. The wine is pure, fresh and well-structured with great energy and minerality.
Saint Aubin ‘Derriere Chez Edouard’ 1er Cru 2011, $52 – The nose is dominated by stony mineral aromas and complimented by elegant floral notes. The wine is precise and deep with a core of sweet citrus fruit. There is extraordinary mineral density and length to this wine. Brilliant!
Saint Aubin ‘En Remilly’ 1er Cru 2011, $65 – High octave aromatics of orchard fruit, florals, minerals and fennel seed. On the palate, there is luscious mouth-coating fruit with a silken texture. The wine is intense with immense personality, power and complexity. Albeit rich and concentrated, there is notable purity and reverberating minerality.
Puligny-Montrachet ‘Les Tremblots’ 2011, $69 – Charming aromas of pineapple, floral notes and citrus zest. Bright, pure and vivacious on the palate with dense, intense stony minerality that carries the finish for miles.
Also Available –
A nice cold glass of white wine is perfect for these hot summer days. There are so many different white wines out there and so many different styles that it can get a little overwhelming and confusing. We hope that this will serve as your summer white wine guide and will help you to choose a varietal and style that perfectly suits your taste.
In each region where Sauvignon Blanc is grown, the grape and resulting wine expresses a unique set of flavors and styles. Sauvignon Blanc thrives throughout France, and especially within Bordeaux, where it is the prominent grape varietal in Bordeaux Blanc blends and the coveted dessert wines of Sauternes . The climate of Bordeaux allows the Sauvignon Blanc grapes to ripen more slowly than in other areas, giving a wonderful balance between acidity and fruit. The climate is also an important factor in the development of the wine’s aromas. The flavors in these wines are fruitier than those from other regions in France. These wines can also age a bit more than the Sauvignon Blancs that are produced elsewhere.
The Loire Valley is the home of Sancerre, producing some of the most celebrated Sauvignon Blancs in the world. Sancerre is considered an elegant wine that is vibrant and crisp. Sancerre has good fruit and minerals, which combine to make a deep and complex Sauvignon Blanc. The fruit flavors that are typically present in Sancerre are from the citrus family, including lemon, lime and grapefruit. However, when the grapes are really ripe you can taste pear, quince, and apple. The wines that are produced in Sancerre have a good acidity, making them among the most refreshing wines out there.
California Sauvignon Blanc is made in a variety of styles, some of which were inspired by the regions of France. Fume-Blanc is a “French look a-like” that came into being when Robert Mondavi began using oak aging to remove some of the grassy flavors that were showing up in his California Sauvignon Blanc.
The flavors that are present in Sauvignon Blanc/Fume-Blanc, grown in California, tend to be minerally, grassy, and tropical. The wines that show more tropical fruits tend to be mixed with Semillon, which helps add ripe and aromatic fruit flavors. In addition, there are wines produced in California that offer citrus fruit aromas, showing notes of passion fruit, grapefruit, and lemon. On the other hand, the Fume-Blanc style shows melon flavors, as well as some other tropical fruits.
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is very tropical and refreshing when the weather is really hot. There is also something about New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs that I really enjoy in general, but especially in the summer. Just like all Sauvignon Blancs that I have covered here, they are bright, refreshing, and crisp. Marlborough is the most well-known area in New Zealand where this grape variety is grown and produced.
A typical New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is very aromatic with tropical notes of pineapple, passion fruit, grapefruit, melon, gooseberry, and other citrus flavors. Some of these wines can have grassy and floral notes too. The cool climate that the grapes are grown in allows for these flavors to be quite intense, but also gives a good balance between sugars and acidity. Moderate to high acidity is typical for these wines.
Chardonnay is the chameleon of the white wine grapes, having a variety of expressions depending on the region and the winemaker’s influence. Chardonnay is one of the most popular and widely planted white wine grapes in the world. Chardonnay is a native grape varietal to France’s Burgundy region. Consumers always get confused when it comes to Burgundy – red or white. It seems confusing with the different appellations within a village, the many different growers within the same vineyard, and then of course you sprinkle in the negociant. When it comes to White Burgundy, the first thing you need to know is that 95% percent of the time, the white wines produced there are made from Chardonnay! And Burgundy produces some of the finest and most age worthy Chardonnays in the world. Depending on the area of Burgundy, the flavors that can arise range from citrus fruit to licorice and spice notes, and can be rich and creamy in style or very racy and brisk. Chablis is perhaps the most distinctive expression of Chardonnay within Burgundy. View all White Burgundy available on our website.
Chablis will always be 100% Chardonnay, no blending of any kind. Because of the cool climate that the grapes are grown in, Chablis is always refreshing and very crisp, but don’t let that fool you, Chablis can be aged. Expressing a deep mineral character in its youth, the wine tends to softens with age and develop floral and honeyed notes. Another typical characteristic of young Chablis is a green apple-like acidity, as well as a flinty-mineral flavor.
California is another popular Chardonnay producing region. California Chardonnay tends to be fuller-bodied in style, filling the palate with rich flavors and textures. Chardonnay is wonderfully versatile, which is why it works so well for all seasons!
Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio is a mutant form of the Pinot Noir grape. The grapes can actually have a purplish hue, although the wine produced is light in color. This is a wonderful warm weather wine and is sure to cool you off on a hot summer afternoon. It tends to be light to medium-bodied in style and is usually very pale in color. It is extremely bright, crisp, and refreshing. Pinot Gris thrives in Alsace, California and Oregon, while Italy is known for Pinot Grigio. View all Pinot Grigio available on our website.
Italian Pinot Grigio is very bright and clean. It is very light in color and in body. Sometimes there is an effervescent feel to an Italian Pinot Grigio. This makes the wine elegant and delicate, which means you want to drink it in its youth.
Pinot Gris is a major grape varietal in Alsace, and is very different from the Pinot Gris/Grigio that is found everywhere else. These wines have very intense flavors, because of the long autumn season, which allows for the grapes to ripen very slowly. The Alsatian Pinot Gris is medium-bodied and can be aged for longer than those of Italy and the United States. Alsatian Pinot Gris can have a nice spice flavor to it, which is unique to this variety. In general, Pinot Grigio makes a great cooler for the hot weather!
Summer is finally here, which means that it’s time to fire up the grill and break out the best of summer – light, bright, refreshing wines! There are several good summer wines that I would like to recommend. I would also like to briefly mention what makes a good summer wine! These wines have been selected, because I feel that they are great for summer BBQs and fun low key gatherings, but they are also great for other times in the year as well. I hope that you enjoy them as much as I have so far this summer!
The summer white wines that you want to buy for BBQs and gatherings are light, crisp, and refreshing.
The white wine recommendations are fruitier, but are not sweet. This style of crisp white wines is light and refreshing, especially when served well-chilled. These white wines can be great for a typical summery BBQ or party meal, like chicken or seafood, or they can be great for pre-main course snacks and appetizers!
Sauvignon Blanc is a great white wine for the hot days ahead! Sauvignon Blanc is perfect for summer, because it is typically a refreshing, crisp white wine variety. It can be a fruity white wine, but it can also be minerally and dry; there is a style out there for everyone. Sauvignon Blanc is grown in various regions across the globe, including Bordeaux in France, Napa Valley in California, South America, South Africa and New Zealand. Each of these growing regions lends a different character to the grapes and the finished wine, offering a lot of variety in Sauvignon Blanc flavors. One of our favorite Sauvignon Blancs this summer hails from Napa Valley, the 2011 Mason Cellars Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley ($15/btl).
The 2011 Mason Cellars Sauvignon Blanc is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. On the nose, this spectacular wine offers aromas of fig and exotic floral notes. The flavors on the palate are of summer fruits including citrus, honeyed grapefruit, melon, and quince! Don’t let all of this fruit turn you away though, because there is good acid present as well, which places this amongst the best dry white wines. This is really a great white wine and a great value, I would say that this is one of the best sauvignon blancs under 20!
Our second white wine recommendation for summer 2013 is the 2011 Chateau Cantelaudette Graves de Vayres Blanc ($15/btl), a blend of white Bordeaux blend, which includes semillon, sauvignon blanc, and muscadelle. This is a wonderful dry white wine type considered a fantastic Graves “look alike”, and Graves produces the best white wines in Bordeaux. This is not only a dry white, but a fruity white wine as well, which are two typical characteristics of Graves. The aromas consist of citrus and some florals. The palate is long and has flavors such as melon, citrus, and fig, with a touch of wood and minerals. This white wine will go perfectly with summer salads, seafood, lobster, and any kind of appetizer that you would typically have in the summer.
Once the BBQ gets started, a glass of red or rosé is perfect! The types of rosé wine that we are offering are perfect summer wines! ‘Do you chill rosé wine?’ is a commonly asked question, and the answer is yes. Also, I find that the more chilled a rosé is, the more uplifting it is on a scorching day. Rosé wines are light, crisp, refreshing, and can be a bit more full-bodied than some whites. Rosés are great for everyone, but they are also great for the person who loves red but wants a cooler drink on a hot day. There are many spectacular rosé wines that we are offering for the summer…two of them are mentioned below!
For a softer wine that still packs a punch, 2011 Saintsbury Vincent Vin Gris of Pinot Noir Carneros ($15/btl) is wonderful. It is a medium to full-bodied, refreshing pink wine made from Pinot Noir. The wine offers zesty aromas and flavors of plum, apricot, raspberry and blood orange. On the palate, the wine is vibrant with bright fruit, but not overly fruity, and a touch of acidity to make the wine perfectly refreshing. The finish is satisfying and lasts long. After one sip, you’re left wanting more.
Food pairing for the 2011 Saintsbury Vincent Vin Gris of Pinot Noir Carneros is easy, because it goes with almost anything, with the exception of heavier red meats. You can serve this with your snacks or appetizers at your BBQ or party, but you can also serve it with the main course of chicken, fish, or burgers. The 2011 Saintsbury is truly a good summer wine that is crisp and refreshing and is a great value under $20.
For a crisp, lighter rosé wine, 2011 Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Noir Rosé Willamette Valley ($15/btl) is among our best wines for summer. Strawberry, orange zest, spices that build over time, and white flowers appear on the nose of this pink wine. This is a dry rosé wine on the palate, but it also has plenty of fruits and other surprises as well. On the palate, red berries and citrus fruits make an appearance, followed by a good clean finish with some floral notes at the very end. Ponzi Vineyards Rosé is a lively and fun rosé for any occasion during the summer and it is a great value too.
Your typical light summer fare will go particularly well with the 2011 Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Noir Rosé. For example, I would recommend any kind of summer salad, like potato salad or a roasted vegetable salad tossed with citrus vinaigrette. Other salads that are ideal rosé pairings include baby spinach and arugula with a summer fruit and nut blend, tossed with a light summer vinaigrette. Risotto with fish and veggies is also a great summer dish to pair with rosé. Chicken or seafood dishes will go spectacularly as well. Mediterranean style food is perfect since you want to keep it light and simple when serving a lighter style of rosé.
Any wine with bubbles makes a great summer wine. Bubbly is always so versatile and you can have it before, during, or at the end of a meal! However, not everyone wants to spend the money for true champagne, which is why Prosecco is a great bubbly option.
The Prosecco grape originated during Roman times and is one of the oldest grapes in Italian history. Its origin and name can be traced back to the town of Prosecco in Trieste. Prosecco grapes are transformed into sparkling wine using the Charmat method in which stainless steel tanks and yeast are utilized to produce a natural second fermentation. The process takes approximately 60 days depending on acidity, residual sugar and pressure. The Charmat method allows Prosecco to preserve its original flavors and perfumes longer. Prosecco is traditionally a dry wine with hints of apple and citrus.
NV Lamberti Prosecco Extra Dry ($16/btl) is a great bottle of Prosecco. It has notes of white peach, lemon zest, and smoke on the nose. For the palate it offers great flavors of granny smith apples, sweet spices, and floral notes. The finish is long, which leaves your mouthwatering and wanting another sip! It is dry, crisp, light, and oh so refreshing for these hot summer days ahead. Also, if you like a good dry white, then you will love this bubbly.
Pink bubbles are always fun for a celebration, but in the summer time, there is just something extra nice about them. If you want a sparkling Champagne rosé for a great price, NV Champagne Laherte Freres Brut Rose ($38/btl) is a wonderful choice. The red fruit and strawberry flavors are really what make this rosé Champagne the finest summer bubbly!
The best red wines for the summer are elegant in style…wines such as Pinot Noir and Beaujolais. Today Beaujolais is a wine that has depth, concentration, great structure, good balanced acidity and length. These wines are more like Burgundy than ever before. The days of carbonic maceration are practically gone. Today the serious producer treats the Gamay grape just like its counterpart, the Pinot Noir. The result is a wine that has wonderful fruit (but not too fruity), structure and length.
2011 Domaine du Vissoux Beaujolais Cuvee Traditionelle Vieilles Vignes ($14/btl) is, in my opinion, one of the best wines under 20, for its variety. It has such interesting flavor combinations that really get your taste buds excited. There are flavors of Middle Eastern spices, plum, red licorice, and black cherry. The nose is quite different than what you would expect with the flavors though. On the nose you smell woodsmoke, cherries, raspberries, and the minerals from the soil. This red wine is definitely vibrant and playful with good minerality, a fine core, and a finish that will impress you.
As a red wine lover, finding a good red wine for summer is a must for me! Finding a great red wine like the 2011 Domaine du Vissoux Beaujolais Cuvee Traditionelle Vieilles Vignes is a real treat! I recommend trying this great red wine under 20 as soon as possible.
Our fifth day in France brought us to Nicolas Rossignol’s winery in Beaune. We spent the morning tasting a stunning line-up of Rossignol’s premier cru Volnays. From there, we enjoyed lunch in the charming village of Meursault and then traveled on to meet with Jean-Yves Devevey at his domaine, just northeast of Rully, in Demigny. Our day was capped off by a delightful tasting in the home of Benoit Ente, who makes utterly sublime Puligny Montrachets.
Domaine Nicolas Rossignol
In addition to being one of Burgundy’s finest young winemakers, Nicolas Rossignol is an energetic and charismatic host! A 5th generation vigneron in the vineyards of Volnay, Nicolas has an impressive résumé, including Domaine Joseph Voillot in Volnay and Domaine du Vieux Telegraph in Châteauneuf du Pape. Establishing his own estate in 1997, Rossignol’s vineyard holdings include Volnay, Pommard, Beaune, Corton and Savigny les Beaune. Rossignol is dedicated to sustainable farming and focuses on balance and respect for the land, combined with careful winemaking techniques. These dedicated practices result in premium quality, lending to great power and complexity in the finished wines. His passion for the various terroirs of Volnay shows through in the style and intensity that his wines possess.
NOTE: The Domaine Nicolas Rossignol wines will arrive in June of 2013.
Bourgogne Rouge 2011, $26 – (100% de-stemmed fruit) Offering a pretty aromatic profile, the wine is vibrant on the palate with fresh acidity and well-balanced structure. The elements of deep fruit, minerality, tannins and acidity come together harmoniously and give a complete package. A great value!
Volnay ‘Caillerets’ 1er Cru 2011, $102 – (Caillerets means small stones) Delicate aromas of red fruit and violets waft from the glass. The fruit is definitely more subtle. On the palate, stony minerality takes center stage giving the wine depth and a lofty, elegant character. The wine has impressive verve and freshness, leading to miles of length on the finish.
Volnay ‘Santenots’ 1er Cru 2011, $60 – (100% de-stemmed fruit) Beautiful aromas of red cherry fruit, bramble berries and sweet spices. On the palate, there is great power and intensity with muscular gripping tannins, deep complexity and bright freshness that shines through the wine’s density. There is wonderful earthiness and minerality at the heart of this wine, which then dissolves into the serious force of the finish. Amazing!
Fun Fact learned in the cellar: The Premier Cru vineyard of Santenots overlaps both Meursault and Volnay. Santenots is actually on the Meursault side, but produces both red and white wines. The reds are labeled Volnay Santenots and the whites are labeled Meursault Santenots.
Volnay ‘Ronceret’ 1er Cru 2011, $73 – (Ronceret means blackberry bush) Aromas of sweet cherry and raspberry fruit are layered with mountain florals and exotic spice notes. Opulent sweet black cherry fruit coats the palate upfront. The wine is structured with depth, complexity and sinewy tannins that have power and finesse. The mid-palate and finish are driven by the wine’s cool, fresh, stony minerality. This is an absolute favorite of mine. Magnificent!
Domaine Jean-Yves Devevey
Devevey crafts gorgeous white and red Burgundy from Rully and Beaune, as well as from Volnay and the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune. Devevey’s white Burgundies are some of our favorites and offer exceptional quality and value. Jean-Yves got his start with small holdings of basic Bourgogne Rouge and Aligoté from modest locations and through hard work and considerable skill, he has built up a successful business, part vigneron and part merchant, with a properly equipped cuverie and cellar. Jean-Yves has a warm and genuine personality, not to mention his great talent as a winemaker! His wines consistently showcase their terroir and as we tasted through the line-up, I was impressed by the distinct sense of place present in each of the wines. There is such purity and deep minerality in all of Jean-Yves wines.
NOTE: The Domaine Jean-Yves Devevey wines will arrive in Fall of 2013.
Bourgogne Blanc 2011, $25 – (a blend of fruit from Chassagne and Hautes Côtes de Beaune) Very pretty on the nose with elegant citrus blossom aromas, chamomile and tropical pineapple fruit notes. On the palate, the wine is fresh and vibrant with great energy and expressive character. The minerality drives the lengthy finish.
Also available – Bourgogne Blanc 2010, $22
Hautes Côtes de Beaune ‘Les Champs Perdrix’ 2011, $28 – (Les Champs Perdrix = The Partridge Fields) Ethereal aromas of honeysuckle, elderflower and violet, along with wet stone which alludes to the wine’s deep minerality on the palate. On the palate, there is a core of candied stone fruit deeply imbedded in the dense and resounding minerality that leads through to the finish.
Hautes Côtes de Beaune ‘Les Champs Perdrix’ 2010, $25 – (no sulphur used) Initially, the nose is heady with animal/sauvage aromas. These aromas blow-off to reveal lovely fruit and floral notes. The wine’s character is vibrant with racy acidity and clean minerality through the finish.
Rully ‘Les Chaumes’ 2011, $29 – Zesty aromas of lime, lemon and citrus blossoms. In the mouth, the wine is rich with luscious, palate-coating fruit and wonderful stony minerality that carries through the long finish.
Hautes Côtes de Beaune ‘Les Chagnots – XVIII Lunes’ 2011, $31 – (XVIII Lunes = 18 moons) There is opulent and luscious fruit on the palate with a delightful, subtle butter scotch flavor. The wine has great verve and intensity, energetic acidity, minerality and miles of length. This is serious stuff! An incredible value.
Domaine Benoit Ente
Our final stop for the day was the home and winery of Benoit Ente in Puligny Montrachet. Benoit is a noteworthy young white Burgundy producer and each of his Puligny Montrachet’s is nothing short of fabulous. Benoit produces one red, a Bourgogne Rouge, and we fell in love with that too! Benoit Ente became a winemaker in 1989 and by 1997 he started his own domaine. The vineyards were all planted by his grandfather in the 1950s, which has enabled Benoit to benefit from old vine grapes. Every year, Ente’s target is to get the best harvest by mastering the yield: sound grapes with a good balance between sugar and acidity; mastering the production of the harvest to get the right expression of terroir. Green harvesting is an important part of Benoit’s philosophy and the picking of the grapes is done by hand.
Benoit likes to age his wines in oak barrels for 12 months, even the Aligoté. Nothing is added to the wine. A light filtration is done just before bottling, which is done at the estate by Benoit himself.
NOTE: The Domaine Benoit Ente wines will arrive in July of 2013.
Bourgogne Aligoté 2011, $23 – (bottled 3 weeks prior) Intense, exotic aromas of kumquat and citrus blossoms leap from the glass. On the palate, there is sappy, sweet fruit and a zesty quality. The intensity and concentration of the nose follows through on the palate. There is great precision and fresh minerality that carries the finish.
Bourgogne Rouge 2011, $32 – Vibrant aromas of macerated strawberries and violets greet the nose. On the palate, the fresh, ripe strawberry fruit follows through; along with wonderful spice flavors that give added complexity. This is a delightful Bourgogne. Once you’ve tasted this wine, you won’t want to put down your glass!
Bourgogne Blanc 2011, $33 – (from 30 year old vines) – Elegant floral and mineral aromatics waft from the glass. On the palate, the wine has generosity, opulence and intensity with clarity and precision. There is bracing acidity that dissolves into a wonderfully round and silky mid-palate. The roundness then leads to a focused, precise finish. Excellent!
Puligny Montrachet 2011, $66 – There is a sensational zippy-zesty quality to the wine upfront, then a core of sappy, sweet fruit with plenty of exciting tension and grip. Again, like the others already tasted, the wine shows great precision, purity and length.
Puligny Montrachet ‘Champ Gain’ 1er Cru 2011, $106 – Aromas of sappy, candied fruit with notes of anise and citrus blossom. On the palate, the fruit is rich and dense with lush, fresh acidity and elegant style. The finish is long and well-honed.
Puligny Montrachet ‘Les Referts’ 1er Cru 2011, $106 – A sweet perfume of citrus and floral notes introduces this Premier Cru Puligny. The wine is voluminous, intense and soaring on the tongue with flavors of pineapple. Ethereal minerality on the mid-palate gives a lofty character and the wine finishes with richness and intensity. Sublime.
Puligny Montrachet ‘Les Folatieres – En La Richarde’ 1er Cru 2011, $155 – Elegant, layered aromas of white blossoms, citrus and subtle spice breathe from the glass. On the palate, the wine has stunning power and complexity with a core of ethereal sweet white peach and nectarine fruit. There is incredible energy and length to the En La Richarde. Enchanting!