like the Cicala, this comes from vines averaging between 45 and 50 years of age; the Conternos' Gran Bussia bottling has traditionally been about 70% from Romirasco) Good red-ruby. Lower-toned nose shows more licorice, minerals and truffle and less primary fruit. A rather powerful Barolo that's more complex, more elegant and tighter-grained than the Cicala, but showing less body today. The dark berry and mineral flavors boast very good inner-mouth energy, and the spicy finish features firmer tannic bite. This and the Cicala holding are monopoles of the Conterno family. A piece in the middle of this 2.5-hectare parcel, which went into the Gran Bussia, has recently been replanted. In vintage 2005, the Conternos will offer a Romirasco and a Gran Bussia for the first time, according to Franco.

The 2005 Barolo Romirasco is a regal, aristocratic wine that embodies everything a great Barolo should be. The wine reveals awesome density and richness in layers of deeply spiced, mentholated dark fruit, flowers and minerals that continue to emerge from the glass in a never-ending display of sheer elegance and class. This is one of the few truly complete, multi-dimensional wines of the vintage. Today the wine comes across as exceedingly young, and some bottle age is essential in order to enjoy the wine at its very finest. This is a gem from Aldo Conterno. Based on the well-deserved success of the 2004 the estate has decided to bottle a small amount of the Romirasco in each vintage, something Barolo lovers should be thrilled about. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2030. -Antonio Galloni

Blackberry and blueberry aromas, with light vanilla and floral character, lead to a full-bodied palate, with very sweet fruit and chewy tannins. Turns to a real mouthful. A beautiful single-vineyard wine. Best after 2011. 300 cases made. –JS

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